So about this time of year, there seems to be a steady stream of emails and texts flying around -- "What do I do with my fur? How do I organize it for the auction to get the best possible price?"
My state association sale is well known for its fancy western cats and while organizing and lotting your cats a particular way won't overcome rabbit backs, sow bellies, dingy fur, or the lack of spots, it will help a potential buyer see your fur in its best possible setting, and it will make the buyer's job much more pleasant, which may translate to a buyer that is willing to reward your effort.
I know there is an entire psychology about lotting fur (i.e. organizing it to present at the sale). This includes putting top quality fur with lesser fur and thus "forcing" a buyer to purchase your lesser fur in order to pick up your more valuable grades. Some trappers feel its entirely a waste of time and a buyer is only going to pay what the buyer feels inclined to pay, regardless of how you present or organize your fur. I suppose all of those theories work from time to time. For example, if the market is hot for a particular color/clarity/size/type of fur and you happen to have just that, combining it with a lesser quality fur may sometimes encourage a buyer to pick up both items, but I really doubt the buyer is going to pay you more for both items collectively that he/she would for each item separately . . . but who knows?
Grading bobcat fur is a very technical thing and is a talent that is acquired over long periods of time and after making lots of mistakes. It is beyond the realm, or interest, of most trappers. However, one thing you can do, is try matching your bobcats into pairs or triples. I'm certainly no bobcat grader but with some patience, good lighting and attention to detail, most trappers can come close to matching similar cats so they are more attractive to a buyer.
Like I said, I'm no expert but here's how I go about it.
First, get a table and mark on the table from 32" through 44" in increments of 2". That way you can just lay your cat on the table with its nose at one end, and where the base of its tail lines up on the pre-measured mark, that will be its length. Here's how I do it.
Each piece of blue tape represents a two inch mark beginning at 34" and going through to 44." If I catch a cat over 44", I throw a party, sing and dance, and then carefully put it in a pile all by itself because it probably won't happen for another 5-7 years.
Now take all your cats and measure them from tip of nose to base of tail on your measuring table and then stack them in piles according to size. Like this:
![[Linked Image]](https://trapperman.com/forum/attachments/usergals/2020/02/full-25559-38497-img_4719.jpg)
At this point, you need real good light (my garage has horrible cat grading light so I always do this on a sunny day in the back yard).
Once you have organized all your cats by size, now turn them belly down and organize them by the patterns on their backs. Cats with similar backs go in the same piles, and they all stay in their length size piles.
![[Linked Image]](https://trapperman.com/forum/attachments/usergals/2020/02/full-25559-38499-img_4720.jpg)
Once you have them organized by length and back, flip them over to show the belly. Obviously in this market the belly is more important than the back, so now we start mixing and matching by belly. In my state's sale, I can have lots with as few as two cats in a lot, so my job is to match pairs. Again, I'm not a cat grader but if you work at it, you can learn to match up pairs of cats -- whatever their grade or quality -- just putting together cats of similar length and similar color/density/clarity/spots, etc.
Here are some cats that I think are similar enough to go together.
![[Linked Image]](https://trapperman.com/forum/attachments/usergals/2020/02/full-25559-38500-img_4721.jpg)
After a while it can be kind of fun mixing and matching and comparing different cats and you'll soon recognize patterns in your collection of cats. For example, my cats are generally smaller than cats caught further north, but they generally have lighter bellies (good) and they have sort of a light honey color fur along their flanks and backs. After a while, you'll get most of your cats paired, but there will probably be an odd duck or two -- cats that just don't match up with anything. At this point, you have a decision to make. You can play the "I'll-put-it-with-a-good-cat" game, or you can find another nonconforming cat that has different qualities or problems. For example, if you have a rabbit backed cat with a good belly, you might have to pair it with a cat that has a better back but a weaker belly. Its a guessing game.
Once the cats are all organized, I use a piece of twine to tie them into pairs until the sale so they don't get all mixed up again. Once they are all lotted, its nice to just sit back, look at them, and know how much satisfaction you can have from knowing your fur represents a lot of hard work. It doesn't matter how many or how few, or what type of fur you catch, you owe it to yourself and the animal to present it in the best possible light when it goes to market. Good luck and may all your fur bring top dollar.