What size cable do y’all use for beaver on a drowning set?

3/32 or 1/8 preferably 1/8 7x19 if you can find it.

What Snipe said!

I also agree with SNIPERBBB's choice.

Thanks for asking this! Was wondering myself.

Have a stupid question to ask along with this. Is it possible/feasible to set a snare on a drowning rig?

No different than any other trap. Just attach the end to the drowning lock. It'll work best if you can use as short of a snare as possible to still get your desired loop size. a 40" snare would work most all the time.

Thanks!!!

You can make a lot of good drowners with 1000' for $110 to your door.
https://smile.amazon.com/Galvanized...refix=1%2F8+7x19%2Caps%2C341&sr=8-12

Thanks guys

If you use cable and want it to last, I make my rigs up then boil them in water with a little dawn dish soap. then I rinse them and let them dry. Then I wax them. Really makes the cable last ALOT longer!

Good tip there. When I make snares for open water drowning, I include a drowning lock on the snare cable positioned so that it will slide toward the loop.

Now when I make the set, as ADC says you just attach the snare to the drowning lock on your drowner cable. In addition, I attach a heavy window sash weight to the drowner lock on the snare itself. Two sash weights if small. These are just set on the bottom.

The beaver gets into the snare, can't go up the bank any further, then turns and swims to deep water. The snare tightens and drags the sash weights as the drowner lock on the drowner cable slides towards deeper water with the beaver. As the beaver goes deeper, those sash weights slide right up to the snare loop.

What I find interesting when snaring beaver in open water is the lack of struggle marks on the bank as opposed to a foothold held beaver that temporarily reaches the bank. A foothold held beaver will have deep struggle marks on the bank 'til it turns to open water, that is, IF it goes up the bank first, which doesn't happen too often. The snare-held beaver will simply walk up the bank 'til the snare tightens, discover its held, then turn to swim out away from the entanglement it finds itself in.

Anyway, for what it's worth.

I like Thompson #2 wire. It isn't stainless so you have to give it a little attention when you store it off season, but it is my favorite drowning wire.

Please explain way you are choosing .7x19 over 7x7 or 1x19 .

7x19 is most limber and resists kinking up better than the other two for a much longer life before it needs replaced.

I use 1/8” 7x19 for all of my bodygrips and sliders. It’s much more flexible.




2 weeks ago I was setting 330s, and I realized I didn’t have a clip, and I didn’t need an extension cable. I took my 330’s cable and tied a knot around a root to anchor it. I tied it in such a way that I didn’t cinch it tight but it would have definitely held if it would have been pulled on. Barely any sign of kinks, if any at all. True story.

That’s just to show how limber the stuff is

I kind of figured that was the idea . What kind of lock are you using that wont slide back up that limp stuff .

I've always ran wire, not cable. Just cut it to whatever length you need on site and no screwing around with trying to get the right length cable drowner or figuring out how to anchor a cable that is too long. I use either 11 or 12 wire (can't remember which it is, but the common one smaller than 9 wire). Just get the soft stuff that is easy to twist the hard stuff is both a pain to work with and brittle and can break with a little bending. I've anchored lots of them by just twisting the wire by hand without using pliers. But I always carry a set of cheap chinese pliers (so when I drop them in a beaver pond I'm not out too much money) to cut the wire with and they can easily be used to make tighter twists if you are using smooth stakes and are afraid of hand twisting sliding.

I use cam locks.


It needs to be taut, no matter what cable is used, so lock isn’t as important as it being taut (tight). You can’t get it too taut. Make that thing like a guitar string.


I only use adjustable sliders, and this makes getting it taut much easier. There are several designs for adjustable drowners, but I use possum skinners design. For beaver work, I find 15 feet to be the most useful.

Important: Add a stop 24-36” from the bottom. You don’t want a beaver making it to your stake or weight if you can help it.


Here’s a link, let me know if you have any questions...

https://trapperman.com/forum/ubbthr...owners-building-adjustable-drowners-pics

Locks are less likely to slide back with this cable IMO. Most people I know just use the hole in the swivel at the end of your trap chain but I've used L-locks and cam-locks both in the past. There may be a better choice out there these days though. I haven't actually used them for 15 years or so.