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Still doing some research for my home schooled coyote trapper project, and have been getting up to speed on Robert Waddell. He seems to have it pretty well dialed in.
Anyway, found this reference to 4 tips on his blog site......
Ask the ten best coyote men you can find what the best bait is and you will get 12 different answers. Your best bet is to ask the coyotes in your area yourself by testing. Take the video you linked above as an example, my testing has shown that there are better meats for a base than bobcat meat in my area.
I have found plain beaver liver works. So does fish. As does cavens, carmans, RK, Beaudettes froggy ed, grawes mustang sally.
You just gotta test it like was said above. For example, i bought grawes prairie fire bait, never caught a coyote, but i would have been the possum trapping king in arkansas with that bait. Couldn't keep possums out of the sets baited with prairie fire. But, grawes mustang sally was nailin the yotes.
the just shall live by faith
member FTA, ATA, EAFT 1776 - the year we told a tyrant we weren't to be under a dictator Caveat ater macula
Still doing some research for my home schooled coyote trapper project, and have been getting up to speed on Robert Waddell. He seems to have it pretty well dialed in.
Anyway, found this reference to 4 tips on his blog site......
Getting dialed in on your season homework planning , master a couple of good basic set types, anti freeze method as needed, and fine tune your location selection abilities is where the answers lie.
What most can't understand and don't see in any video or end of the day catches is the behind the scenes planning, experience and work ethic that makes it all look easy.
Lure and bait are only tools for the trapper that make things work better. The rest is hard work, finding good animal populations/habitat and as many naturally occurring draw > dead dump stations to take advantage of the more frequent visitations. Man made draw stations can be employed if you have the time and want to put the work into it.
I would bet there is a difference from region to region. I've tried so many baits and although you won't catch them all on any bait some things that I discovered are:
Deer liver: My number one go to bait. It's natural and during bow and gun season the coyotes feast on it. I often mix it with deer hair or the deer hair from around the tarsel gland. Deer lung is almost as good. Check your state regulations first.
Deer meat: Almost as effective as liver. Again, check your state regs.
Beaver: Widely used in many area with success but the coyotes just don't respond to it here. Beaver carcass's are left untouched and eaten as a last resort.
Commercial baits: Tried a lot of them, have had limited success on Hiawatha Valley, mostly on young coyotes.
Lure: Hands down, bobcat gland lure just plain kills coyotes here and the best I've used is Weisers.
I realize this is what I have found in my area and I'm sure its totally different in other areas.
What I picked up on the video, and why I mentioned it was the reference to taking a meat base, putting a light taint on it to get the odor to carry.......and then adding the fatty acid scent to it in the form of various fats and oils. A bait a coyote would want to eat.....so would work for vs. something they might roll in.
If all the commercial made baits follow this basic method......and all are more or less the same.......differing by meat base, glands, fats, etc, then it does get down to testing a few of them. But if it turns out that only 10% or so of them are made like that, then I would like to focus on those to start and work my way out from there.
And I also know that bait alone is no magic bullet. Only one piece of a much larger puzzle. My big focus for now is on location. Where coyotes are likely to be and just as important.......why.
Easy to vote your way into socialism, but impossible to vote your way out of it.
Location is key. I noticed several of my sets had multiple catches while other a few hundred yards away remained untouched. Same cover same sets and bait. Recognizing what stands out and makes some spots hot and others duds are the key. If we do this we can put out less sets per location and spend less time there with the same catch rate. Going further being able to recognize other hot spots I walk past will increase the catch rate. I'm working on it but it will be a life long lesson.
In my area I experimented this year. Early season eggs, both hard boiled and raw seemed to work very well. December and January the baits that worked best for me were mice, skunk meat and a Keg Creek bait.
Last edited by Wild_Idaho; 03/07/2004:44 PM.
Real name Eric The sharpest hammer in the box of crayons.
I made that same bait from that video but with bobcat meat and didn’t catch any coyotes, but I did catch a bomber bobcat. Well at last years prices it would have been a bomber cat haha. The only cat I’ve ever caught with a buried trap or with bait.
Last edited by cat_trapper_nv; 03/07/2008:53 PM. Reason: I’m a idiot and don’t proof read ever. You would think I would have learned that by now, but I haven’t. Maybe one day. Definitely not today. I’m not going to proof read this “reason for edit” because I’m doing it on my phone and it’s a pain to scroll.
If traps work like the Antis say......I would have no fingers.
What I picked up on the video, and why I mentioned it was the reference to taking a meat base, putting a light taint on it to get the odor to carry.......and then adding the fatty acid scent to it in the form of various fats and oils. A bait a coyote would want to eat.....so would work for vs. something they might roll in.
If all the commercial made baits follow this basic method......and all are more or less the same.......differing by meat base, glands, fats, etc, then it does get down to testing a few of them. But if it turns out that only 10% or so of them are made like that, then I would like to focus on those to start and work my way out from there.
And I also know that bait alone is no magic bullet. Only one piece of a much larger puzzle. My big focus for now is on location. Where coyotes are likely to be and just as important.......why.
I think the problem is there's no commercial maker that's going to tell you the recipe to his bait. I would bet most have an oil of some kind in them. But not all oils are equally attractive, nor are glands and also the amounts used will cause different reactions to a bait. A good place to START your testing is as Robert said "if your dog wont eat it then a coyote probably won't either" if your wanting an edible bait.
Well I just put some sets out with slightly tainted bobcat leg bones with a good amount of the meat cut off. I’ll let y’all know how it works. It’s worked in the past, we shall see.
What I picked up on the video, and why I mentioned it was the reference to taking a meat base, putting a light taint on it to get the odor to carry.......and then adding the fatty acid scent to it in the form of various fats and oils. A bait a coyote would want to eat.....so would work for vs. something they might roll in.
If all the commercial made baits follow this basic method......and all are more or less the same.......differing by meat base, glands, fats, etc, then it does get down to testing a few of them. But if it turns out that only 10% or so of them are made like that, then I would like to focus on those to start and work my way out from there.
And I also know that bait alone is no magic bullet. Only one piece of a much larger puzzle. My big focus for now is on location. Where coyotes are likely to be and just as important.......why.
You are putting way too much thought and maybe time into this.
Go to a local deer processor and get some blood shot scraps with maybe the livers, hearts, and empty stomachs.....grind or cut into usable-size pieces...preserves with sodium benzoate..and add glycerin if too dry. Ready to use..
If you cant get the deer meat/parts...get as many beaver tails as you can...grind or cut into small chunks...put in vented amd fly-proof bucket over summer....by next fall it should be making oil. No preservative needed....ready to use..
For a good change up: add skunk essence to either the deer bait or beaver tail bait. Can also take your favorite coyote lure....or any coyote lure....about 4 oz to a gallon of bait...and mix with the bait.
If bait making ain't 4 u....buy commercially...but you won't get any info about ingredients from a manufacturer. Would you give out your commercial formulas?
Thank God For Your Blessings! Never Half-Arse Anything!
No, I would not expect any commercial bait maker to spill the beans, but was hoping someone might be making something highly similar and suggest that. I don't see a lot of difference between a BK Whopper or Sonic Double Cheeseburger, etc. Just looking for a similar. Week old, off color gas station sushi would not be a similar.
And I also appreciate the suggestion on the simplicity of the deer meat bait substitute. I've already got the 3 year old deer meat in the freezer.....not eaten as the processing was suspect to begin with. I can think of a few other things I've already got to kick that up a notch to make that appealing to dogs.......so ought to work.
Easy to vote your way into socialism, but impossible to vote your way out of it.
I will say this,if your in good coyote area and the prices stay where they are for next year,I wouldn`t be wasting my time trying to make a bait.Get some Apple road bait and go catch some coyotes.I have used it out west,in Pa. and down south and it worked for me.If the bottom falls out of the coyote market,That`s when I would play with new stuff,but that`s just me.
I let the people who have dedicated their lives to lure and bait formulations make my bait. My time is better spent learning other aspects of trapping. Just my advice.
Hay day if I had a freezer full of venison I would take three packages of ground venison , fry one , taint one and use one fresh. Now you’ve got until next fall to see which one they like the best . Better yet put a camera on each bait hole and post the results on here .
