What is the difference between different brands if the steel is smooth? I guess I can understand the steel quality just like in a knife . However, smooth is smooth. Comprende'?

F. Dick brand is what most butcher's swear by and not at I learned by using them why they are so popular.
If you are interested in one I'd send a pm to Horn he has a good supply of them normally.

Besides when your knife starts to get dull it's because the burr has started to curl so it feels dull a few lite strokes of the cutting blade which will normally straighten out the burr and it's once again sharp.
Allan

Allan, the reason I was asking is because I have a smooth steel, but it's not an F. DICK'S.

Are you satisfied with the quality of your smooth steel? I have a F Dick that I wished I had long ago. Real game changer for me. Had a Russell prior to.

TrapperCarl, I don't know. Maybe I don't know what I am missing. Why is your F. Dick's better than your Russell?

Sorry Jasper, well if it sharpens your knife to your liking then it's a good one as long as your knife had a good edge to begin with then a good steel is very valuable.
I also really like the old German made sharpening steels but a F. Dick goes along when I go butcher a beef or a buffalo.

Thanks Allan, but I am still trying to figure out what makes one better than the other.

Guess the F Dick just straightens the edge up better in my opinion. Feels like the knife just bounces back easier after a couple licks compared to my Russell. I assume the quality of the steel makes the difference. But me no expert.

Well Jasper I guess it's a Ford Chevy or Dodge kind of deal which is best or which girl is the prettiest ?
After many years working in different fur shops skinning critters then working in a butcher shop skinning bigger critters it became a easy choice I like how the cutting edge of the knife glides across the steel when I use one of my F. Dick brand steels maybe it's something in the chemical composition of the steel that makes it better I don't know but the handle fits my hand well and that's been important to me .
As is the balance of it yes I know that sounds funny but it's true. I'll be at the Western NTA Convention this June in Idaho stop by and I'll let you try one out.

Thanks Allan.

The composition of the steel material is not the only potential difference from brand to brand, The hardness and the surface finish are probably more important factors than the material itself. If you read up on using steels to maintain the cutting edge of your knife you will find recommendations to use varying types of steels based on the quality and hardness of the knife blade. Elcheapo knifes react better to rough cut steels and as the knife blade quality goes up, the recommendation of which steel to use changes to medium finish steels and then to fine finish steels. Then the best quality cutting blades recommend the smooth polished steels. If the hardness and surface finish of the steel did not matter, we could just use a stick of cold rolled.

The quality of the material (hardness, surface finish) and the type of edge and angle certainly affects how a knife takes and holds it's edge. The same is true for the steel used to realign that cutting edge. There are reasons that a stick of cold rolled steel will not do the same thing as an F. Dick or other brand of smooth polished steel. There are many brands other than F. Dick and just like any other commodity, they are not likely all created equally.

To professionals like meat cutters, knives are tools. So are the sharpening systems they use keep them working efficiently. The right tool for the job......and F. Dick appears to be the #1 choice of the pros.

Harold thanks for the clarification and your opinion. I have a Henkel ( ? On the spelling )steel that works but I still grab the F. Dick steel instead .
I've not seen Horn on here for awhile it would be interesting to hear his opinion on them also.

I do know folks who literally beat their knives on a steel have a difficult time getting a sharp knife, a feather soft touch that you can hardly feel as the knife glides across the street will do wonders for the knifes edge.
Allan

Q, thank you for that explanation.

You can use the back of another knife in a pinch too.
A smooth steel wont sharpen a dull knife.
I dont ever use a steel on my good knives,only a strop.

I worked slaughter houses for 40 years. That steel has to be rust free with no nicks in it. There has to be microscopic lateral straight lines on it. To get steel in shape take a piece of no. 180 emery cloth between thumb and forefinger. Then firmly make lines the length of steel until it is polished really well. Lightly strokes of knife blade is all it takes if you have a decent edge to begin with.

I am curious about which F. Dick steels you guys are using? As you probably know there are 9 various models within the Dickoron family of steels. The ones I am interested in are the Classic, Micro, Polish, or the Combi. Any way you could comment on any of these models that you are using would help steer me in the right direction. Thanks in advance, Gary.

I can't remember which one I've got but the handle is orange in color if that helps .

When needed I've got a diamond steel I'll use to rebuild the cutting edge on a new to me knife and if it's really in bad shape I've still got some sharpening stones and paper sharpening wheels on a grinder that work very well.

Allan thank you for the response, that helps some. What is the shape of the steel? Is it round, oval or square? This will tell me what you are using as far. As the model and cut. Thanks again ,Gary

Good Morning Everyone, Gary they are round tapered down to a blunt point if I were smarter I'd take a picture and post it of the one I'm talking about .
I went to their website here's the model number 7469125R polished steel , as I mentioned above send a message to Horn on here he normally has some for sale at a fair price .
The diamond impregnated steel is a fine grit EZ Lap makes one a oval shaped one is handy but a round one will work as well.
You need to be careful they can really remove a lot of blade steel in a short period of time .

Allen, very much appreciate the information, it's got me heading in the right direction.

Jasper69, hope you don't feel I hijacked your post, I certainly didn't intend to. Very good subject for all to learn from. Thanks, Gary.