New to the beaver game and 330 game. I was loaned/given a dozen 330s and going to try find some beaver this spring. Will either notch in the trigger work?

Also, ive heard in the spring you don't NEED to set on sign as long as you are where the 2 year olds will travel when they get kicked?

Either notch will work.
In the spring, my favorite set is a castor mound set with Paul's Backbreaker.
I only set where I find current beaver activity.

i was taught to use the first notch ya come to, since it is easier for them to trip
I hope the lender also lent you a safety.
Make sure to tune the triggers to minimize movement before tripping
http://www.trapperman.com/trapperman/Basic_Sets_Bodygrip_Adj.html

What "av" said. I set on the second notch where there is a current involved.

In moving water i use 2nd , and castor mound i use the 1st notch
Has always worked good for me.

i want all the wack i can get and use the tighter notch.also a slightly slimmer profile.

I set them on the deepest notch every time every set. I hope I haven’t been doing it wrong.....

I'd suggest setting the triggers on the bottom the reason why is it's possible that when the 330 is sprung either the dog or trigger can sometimes break guard hair behind the head or across the back or neck area.

I also will rub the jaws and the loops on the springs with steel wool then spray paint them both to cut down the chance of rust stains on the beaver fur, if it's to late a bit of WD-40 and a soft rag will remove it.
Allan

Either will work, I always set them on the tighter notch. Mainly just habit I guess, although it does provide a slimmer profile although I don't know that this is any real advantage. I often stabilize them by sticking a stick through the eye at an angle so it also fits between the jaws in the corner. for the stick to fit through the spring eyes at an angle it has to be a little smaller and the jaws closer together means it does a better job of fitting there without a lot of slop so it is more solid. I want absolutely no movement in any part of the trap except the trigger when the beaver hits it.

Slimmer profile? These are rodents approaching the set head-on. I don't think they give 2 hoots about it. Most beaver are dumb. One of the easiest critters to trap, leave abundant sign, and generally occupy a small, limited area.
Sure,you can educate one, but come on, they are not that smart, even then.

As I was saying, I don't know that the slimmer profile is any advantage except for stabilizing purposes; and that just because of the way I tend to stabilize them, you could use a thicker stick through the corner of the jaws or I often set them solide with just sticks through the springs. But by habit or prefrence I like to stick one stick through the eye on each side (with springs angled up) at an angle so it also goes through the top corner of the jaws and they can also double as a dive stick that way. Two sticks the right diameter stuck through and I'm off to set the next trap. (always anchor the trap chain some way, obviously)

It all depends on what im stabilizing with .

Me too. When I need to use a KB stabilizer, I use the inside notch to hold in place

I always use the inside notch until the business edge of it gets worn. I then use the other unused notch until I take the trap out of the field so I can file it back into good working condition. This always gives me a fresh backup notch while in the field.