For most days the next few weeks I will post a couple of pictures and a description of some of the sets I use. A few of these may have been posted in past years but if you missed them or are a new member maybe they will help you out. Most of my sets are for snares as that is what we have to use here, but many can easily be adapted to foottraps or conibears.
This first one is how I snare mink on a bridge abutment and avoid the coons that are also using it. Using my "snare on a brick" and a 2 hole concrete block, I simply use the brick to block one hole and set my snare in the other, wedging a small stick or two in the hole to block it down to snare loop size (2.5 inches). Putting a rock or some debris on top of the concrete block finishes the set and pretty much assures the mink will go through the block and not climb over like the coons must do. Mink gets snared, pulls the brick out of the block, it drops in the water, mink drowns, many times so fast that the snare is not damaged and can be reused. After season I just lay the block off to the side of the bridge and use it year after year.
Note: the holes on a 3 hole concrete block are just not big enough and more often than not the mink will not enter them but chose to climb over.

That is a cool set, thank you for sharing.

Thank you, Mr. Space!

I rode along with a man you met from Kentucky one day this season and he showed me some mink in snares. Neat way to catch them.

Thank you. Please keep them coming.

Nice.

That's wicked cool hope this continues for a while.

Lets stay on the topic of under the bridge on the abutment for one more day.
The first picture is a simple snare on a brick where I do not have coons walking along. I set my snare then use the holes in the brick to hold some weeds for blocking/guidance. Notice how the weeds are staggered in length, longest to the left, shortest by the snare to almost guide the mink along into the snare. From the backside as we view it I do not need the weeds for a guide as the abutment is narrow from that side and the mink is funneled into the snare that way.
Picture 2 is set up how I do it if there are squirrels or an occasional coon traveling under the bridge. Blocking is done with a rock, some sod and of course the brick. Then I put a stick about 1 inch in diameter over the snare, wedging it so it is solid.Nine times out of 10 the squirrel will jump onto the stick and thus over my snare, the coon will just step over. Now if you use too big a diameter stick, say 2 or 3 inches some mink will also hop on it and thus over the snare, but rarely will a mink jump onto the 1 inch stick, preferring to go under and into the snare.
I never put only 1 snare or trap at a location, most bridges will have at least 4 snares set, often more. It takes no longer to look at 4 than it does to look at one and you cannot catch 2 mink at the same time if you only have 1 snare set.
Picture 3 is a 110 conibear set up for the same type location. It is fastened to one brick then a second brick is placed on the spring to hold it in place. Weeds and grass complete the vision of a hole and we all know that mink love to go through a hole. For this set use a 110 not a 120 as you want the mink to flop off into the water and not lay dead on the abutment where mice, coons and other varmits can chew on him.

Thanks for sharing Eric. Good stuff

Thanks for posting these sets eric, nice!!

Thanks for taking the time to post this.

Trying to up my admittedly weak snare game.

Eric, I think I see the 110 trigger wires are on top .In a V .
Is this the way you like them?
I'am a big fan of Circle triggers.
Or triggers on the bottom .With the V opened up.

Keep up the good posts

Good Stuff!

Way to go.Congrats

Eric what size of cable or wire do you make your snares from. Is there a snare lock. Good sets . old243

Nice sets, thanks for sharing!

This is my go to fox and coyote bait set. I call it a corral set because I am basically making a corral shape out of discarded Christmas trees. After Christmas around here many trees are just tossed out (dumped) in the woods. Some roadside woodlots can wind up with 10 or a dozen a year. I simply pull them 50 to 70 yards off the road into a triangle, rectangle, circle or whatever shape, leaving 3 or 4 openings for my snares. A large bait, I prefer deer guts or half a roadkill deer is thrown in the middle. Another way to make the same set is with a summertime blowndown oak tree. Oaks leaves will stay on these blowdowns for all winter and sometimes for the next winter as well. 2 minutes with a bucksaw and I have enough leafy limbs to make my corral. The best thing about both of these (Christmas trees or oak blowdowns) is that the blocking for the corral is also the eye appeal. Predators check out these "brush piles" as they normally hunt through the woods. I fasten my snares to a drag or a 6 foot long pole so the animal can get away from the area and not destroy the set. An interesting note, the pictures with the Christmas trees, I baled hay right where this set is located up until the mid-1970's. This field grew up quickly into ceders and whitebirch, then ash and oak shaded them out and the result is what you see now, large trees with little undergrowth.

Very nice.

I went to demo of yours 15 years ago. You were great and mentioned this setup then also. Good demo and and you kept it interesting. Useful set but here in Pa the cable restraints only and they have to be anchored, not drag. good to see you here......jk