Re: Building fur shed do's and don'ts
[Re: asutcliffe]
#6866465
05/08/20 07:58 AM
05/08/20 07:58 AM
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Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 8,312 Firth, Nebraska
jabNE
trapper
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trapper
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 8,312
Firth, Nebraska
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An other option instead of a floor drain is a corner or wall drain. Slope the floor to that low point and install a section of PVC pipe at that point in the wall, with a portion of the pipe just below floor line, and cap it outside. When cleaning the floor just go outside and remove the cap so when you hose or mop everything the water drains to the pipe and out the building. Reinstall the cap to keep mice and other crawlies out. Floor drains over time aren't as much fun to clean out though a snake does an OK job. A drain at the wall is a really short run to the outside and easy peasy to keep clean. Jim
Money cannot buy you happiness, but it can buy you a trapping license and that's pretty close.
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Re: Building fur shed do's and don'ts
[Re: asutcliffe]
#6866540
05/08/20 09:34 AM
05/08/20 09:34 AM
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 23,797 Wisconsin
The Beav
trapper
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trapper
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 23,797
Wisconsin
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Mop and hose down? LOL I have put up a lot of fur in my shed and never ever washed the floor.
I have a old chunk of carpet under the Skinner and when it gets bad I just put It In the trash or burn It.And replace with another chunk. I have a metal tray under my fleshing beam and just dump It when It gets full. The shop stays pretty clean for the most part.
The forum Know It All according to Muskrat
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Re: Building fur shed do's and don'ts
[Re: asutcliffe]
#6866983
05/08/20 07:38 PM
05/08/20 07:38 PM
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Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 2,168 Rochester, MN
Teacher
trapper
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trapper
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 2,168
Rochester, MN
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Try glassboard, glass steel or fiberglas reinforced panels around skinning/ fleshing area. This is what restaurants use and it gives you a moisture/grease impervious wall that’s easily cleaned at ~$38 per 4x8 sheet Used to be called milk house board when farmers used to milk.
Never too old to learn
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Re: Building fur shed do's and don'ts
[Re: asutcliffe]
#6867594
05/09/20 11:24 AM
05/09/20 11:24 AM
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 23,797 Wisconsin
The Beav
trapper
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trapper
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 23,797
Wisconsin
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Very nice set up. i would be ashamed to show any pictures of my shed. Flipper 56 I'm putting you In for the Good house keeping award. LOL
The forum Know It All according to Muskrat
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Re: Building fur shed do's and don'ts
[Re: asutcliffe]
#6867813
05/09/20 03:50 PM
05/09/20 03:50 PM
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 23,797 Wisconsin
The Beav
trapper
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trapper
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 23,797
Wisconsin
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All In the running for the good house keeping awards. LOL
The forum Know It All according to Muskrat
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Re: Building fur shed do's and don'ts
[Re: The Beav]
#6867962
05/09/20 05:57 PM
05/09/20 05:57 PM
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Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 2,417 Idaho
bearcat2
trapper
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trapper
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 2,417
Idaho
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All In the running for the good house keeping awards. LOL No doubt! I got a remnant roll of plastic coated paper (think freezer paper but lots heavier, almost like poster board) from a friend who works at the local paper mill a few years ago. four foot wide (I think actually almost 4 1/2) and I just pull off a couple strips of it and put it on the floor under the fleshing beam. I have a fleshing beam attached to a hinge on a workbench in a little shop with a wood floor, so I can staple the paper down if I want but it is stiff enough I don't usually bother. When not in use I can pull the pin on the hinge on the bracing leg, and fold it up against the bench out of the way. Come summertime I pull the pin on the hinge at the base of the beam (attached to the base of a bench leg) and take the entire beam and put it up in the rafters out of the way until next fur season. Built a room in the back of the big shop a couple years ago where I do everything else instead of being crowded in the little one with fleshing beam, two freezers and everything else (mostly nonfur related) that is in it. 12x20 main room that is totally insulated, white painted walls, 4x8 table on casters so it can be moved and two twenty foot 1/2" pipes hanging from the ceiling down one side two hand pelts taken off the stretchers until after nose and ears are hard. 6x12 room attached that is also insulated and just has a curtain door to the main room where I hang the fully dried skins. Beavers are just stacked on cardboard. Electric 220 wall heater, I used wood heat for a lot of years but I like being able to dry at a set temperature without monitoring the fire constantly. I always used on oscillating fan, I can oscillate it, point it directly at a hide I want to dry faster, or point it away from hides I don't want to overdry while I am gone, but still get some air circulation. More versatile than a ceiling fan IMO, besides I would undoubtedly be not paying attention and removing hides from a stretcher or turning them I would stick either the hide or the stretcher into the ceiling fan! Oh yeah, the fleshing shed isn't heated, so I don't have to worry about getting rid of the fleshing scraps all the time like I would if I was fleshing in the room where I have heat for drying hides. They can just set in the bucket and until it is full and I have to dump it.
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