An other option instead of a floor drain is a corner or wall drain. Slope the floor to that low point and install a section of PVC pipe at that point in the wall, with a portion of the pipe just below floor line, and cap it outside. When cleaning the floor just go outside and remove the cap so when you hose or mop everything the water drains to the pipe and out the building. Reinstall the cap to keep mice and other crawlies out.
Floor drains over time aren't as much fun to clean out though a snake does an OK job. A drain at the wall is a really short run to the outside and easy peasy to keep clean.
Jim

Mop and hose down? LOL
I have put up a lot of fur in my shed and never ever washed the floor.

I have a old chunk of carpet under the Skinner and when it gets bad I just put It In the trash or burn It.And replace with another chunk. I have a metal tray under my fleshing beam and just dump It when It gets full. The shop stays pretty clean for the most part.

sawdust and wood shaving man here.

Cardboard can be had for free anywhere. We go through so many boxes at work we have a box baler. The bales are free to anyone that wants em. They weigh about a hundred pounds though

I put in LED lighting and put heavy plastic sheets mounted with stainless screws and washers behind my skinning machine and I put rubber cattle mats on the floor under it. Then a carpet remnant and cardboard over that. I had 3 inches of spray foam insulation put in on the walls and roof after I wired it and then OSB on the walls. When it was 83 the other day it was 68 in there. I had 2 6 foot baseboard heaters on one digital thermostat and it worked great to keep it right where I wanted it. I think you could heat it with a match. I put a ceiling fan on each side to move air when drying fur. I put reflective film on the windows so the sun doesn't make it hot in the summer. Very happy with the setup.

Nice setup flipper

Not storing for long just during season. I don't keep my furshed heated during the season only when I'm putting up fur.

Try glassboard, glass steel or fiberglas reinforced panels around skinning/ fleshing area. This is what restaurants use and it gives you a moisture/grease impervious wall that’s easily cleaned at ~$38 per 4x8 sheet Used to be called milk house board when farmers used to milk.

Awesome shed Flipper. Thanks for the advice on the floor drains. I have 4x8 stall mats I plan to use around my skinning machine and fleshing area. Plus in front of the work benches where I board furs. I'll look into the ceiling fans as I never thought about that I've just used oscillating fans in my small room in the past.

Here is the way I did my fleshing beams to save space. I just put cardboard down and use borax to keep it from stinking during the season. I have a 5 gallon bucket with a kitchen trash bag in it to throw fat and paper towels in as skinning and fleshing. I have a long narrow table covered with thick plastic I skin otter and beaver on it and not the machine. The magnetic tool strips are nice for knives and tools you need to grab when your gloves are all greasy. I am glad I had the height to do my fleshing machine like I did and was glad I put the power plug for it up at the top when I wired the place.

Very nice set up. i would be ashamed to show any pictures of my shed.
Flipper 56 I'm putting you In for the Good house keeping award. LOL

here is my set up for fleshing

here is i store fur during season

All In the running for the good house keeping awards. LOL

my shed only looks that way in the off season during season looks like a trap supply shop blew up

No doubt!
I got a remnant roll of plastic coated paper (think freezer paper but lots heavier, almost like poster board) from a friend who works at the local paper mill a few years ago. four foot wide (I think actually almost 4 1/2) and I just pull off a couple strips of it and put it on the floor under the fleshing beam. I have a fleshing beam attached to a hinge on a workbench in a little shop with a wood floor, so I can staple the paper down if I want but it is stiff enough I don't usually bother. When not in use I can pull the pin on the hinge on the bracing leg, and fold it up against the bench out of the way. Come summertime I pull the pin on the hinge at the base of the beam (attached to the base of a bench leg) and take the entire beam and put it up in the rafters out of the way until next fur season.
Built a room in the back of the big shop a couple years ago where I do everything else instead of being crowded in the little one with fleshing beam, two freezers and everything else (mostly nonfur related) that is in it. 12x20 main room that is totally insulated, white painted walls, 4x8 table on casters so it can be moved and two twenty foot 1/2" pipes hanging from the ceiling down one side two hand pelts taken off the stretchers until after nose and ears are hard. 6x12 room attached that is also insulated and just has a curtain door to the main room where I hang the fully dried skins. Beavers are just stacked on cardboard. Electric 220 wall heater, I used wood heat for a lot of years but I like being able to dry at a set temperature without monitoring the fire constantly. I always used on oscillating fan, I can oscillate it, point it directly at a hide I want to dry faster, or point it away from hides I don't want to overdry while I am gone, but still get some air circulation. More versatile than a ceiling fan IMO, besides I would undoubtedly be not paying attention and removing hides from a stretcher or turning them I would stick either the hide or the stretcher into the ceiling fan!

Oh yeah, the fleshing shed isn't heated, so I don't have to worry about getting rid of the fleshing scraps all the time like I would if I was fleshing in the room where I have heat for drying hides. They can just set in the bucket and until it is full and I have to dump it.

to hang pelts taken off the stretchers! Not "two hand"! Aargh!