Anyone ever get bridger dogless pans and put them on the mb550. I know that the 550 is fine the way they are but for me I can't seem to bed them because if I push on the jaws the pan falls. Also would like the bigger kill space of the dogless pans. Thanks!

I want to get Duke to make a #2.5, baseplated, with cast jaws, & dogless. I think that would be a SUPER trap!

Push on the jaws? Pan falls, meaning trap trips?

Yes that's what I mean because the pawsitrip pan isn't held up with a nut and bolt you know this you have plenty of them it's just how I bed my traps but I'm not good at bedding traps anyway maybe I'm doing something wrong but I have a no BS no k9 extreme and I like the way the pan is and bridger is close enough for me

Author trapper what would a #2.5 look like I'm curious and what would the jaw spread be

Stop pushing on the jaws.

Then maybe I need to learn how to bed a trap then 🤔 seriously

I have deer prints on my jaws and the trap not fire. Of course I’ve had fox, cat, and coyote too, lol. Guess I’ve just been lucky with all I’ve purchased. I haven’t received a bad one yet and all have been the same tension.
But keep in mind I’m still fairly new at this. Maybe I’m doing something wrong, lol. My only measurement for pan tension is my 3# hammer. I rest the end of the handle on the pan and right as I release pressure from the actual metal of the hammer it will fire...everyone and every time. Guess night latch has spoiled me also. Love hearing that click. And every pan is right at jaw level or slightly below. I bed the majority of mine Zagger style and use my hammer to pound the dirt towards the jaws. I figure I catch enough critters that I must be doing something halfway right...but I’m still learning too.

You catch way more than I do. But I'm not talking about one jaw I mean both jaws simultaneously trying to bed it firm. Im sure something I'm doing is wrong I just don't know what it is I also use part of the zagger method of pounding the dirt but it always still seems wobbly. Still would like pics of a dogless mb550

My two suggestions would be modify your trap bedding method so you don't have push on the jaws (sounds like you know u have an issue there), secondly buy a dogless trap if you like that style. A lot of good traps to choose from. Personal opion, no need to reinvent the wheel.

So from what I’m understanding, arttrapper16 is wanting more pan tension so that when he’s pushing on the jaws the trap won’t fire. I don’t think a dogless pan would work on the rounded cast jaws very well, but maybe with some grinding you could square up a corner and get a nice crisp joint. But then you’ll have weld on either a tube or ears of some sort to bolt your new pan on. Seems like a lot of work and engineering to maybe get something that might work.

There’s videos showing how to bend the dog to increase pan tension I think I’d look into that route if it were me before I start grinding and welding. And as stated above I’d look into fixing my bedding method. I know I’ve had to same problem every once in awhile, but it’s not a big deal I guess, as soon as you see the pan drop then you simply reset the trap and don’t push as hard the second time. If you push down on the posts or levers that will also alleviate your problem.
Or if you like the way a different trap works then sell the MB550 and streamline you operation.

I’ve got 3-4 dozen MB550’s that just sit now because I like the NO BS traps that much better. But if the coon market ever comes back they’ll get pulled back into service I’m sure. hope this helps and good luck

Thank you that was very I formative and helpful didn't think of the pan not working I'l do ok with trap bedding but it's slow and results vary I have a no BS no k9 extreme jr and I absolutely love that thing wish I could get them as cheap as 550s

Once you streamline your operation you’ll be amazed at how fast and smooth you can make a set, it’s worth the extra little bit of cash to get the equipment that you can work with.
It really doesn’t take much extra to get the good stuff, work every weekend for a month and $1000 comes pretty easy. Roofers, siders, concrete finishers, farmers, etc.... they are always looking for help, at least all the ones that I know need help.

You actually kinda described my situation I'm working with a carpenter on a house but he doesn't want to work more than 40 hours a week as his kids have just graduated or are now moved out so he doesn't want to work as hard as he had to before

I was a carpenter and farmed before I hired out on the railroad. If you get some skills built up and a reputation, your phone will be ringing off the hook for handyman services. During the summer my buddy and I would roof or side a house on the weekends or after hours. In the winter i’d take time for hunting, trapping and ice fishing, but still get talked into a bathroom remodel or tile job. There’s always money out there if a guys willing to do the work. But a guy can get burned out pretty easily, so don’t over do it. And it adds a lot of wear and tear on your body, hence the reason I switched careers lol.

Arttrapper16,I think refining your bedding technique is the solution to your problem.Idon't push down on the jaws,to speak of.Sift some dirt in the bed,set the trap in and wiggle the trap back and forth to settle it in.Put your hand on one lever and jaw and pack dirt tightly around the opposite jaw and lever.Now hold the packed jaw and lever and pack around and under the lever that you previously held down.Just hold them down enough that they don't rock up as you pack the opposite side.

You may have to add a little dirt under a lever or jaw.Basically,you just hold one side in place,pack the opposite side,then reverse.Far harder to describe than do.Once you get the hang of it,you can get it done in a minute or so.Now is a great time to practice.

Andy Weiser has a coyote video that shows his method which is very effecient.Good luck with it.l

Once in the bed I don’t touch the jaws except to pound dirt from the sides to firm the jaws. A little tapping with my hammer and trap is snug in the ground.

Artrapper16 those mb 550’s are as good a k-9 trap as any available. The problem is not the trap, it’s your hands and your bed. Your pushing down with your hands on the jaws while your frame is making contact with hard ground . This will will fire most traps with out a pan bolt.! After all that jaw pushing up on the dog is what keeps the trap set . If you keep your hands on the springs and dig your trap bed with a hollowed out pace under the trap you will eliminate this problem. If you start cutting your trap bed to fit the shape of of your jaws , then pound out a place on both sides to let your spring leavers get below the surface of the ground . With a little practice you’ll figure out how to wiggle that trap down below the turf far enough to hide it without feeling like you need to stand on it to get it to bed solid. I hope this all makes sense to you as it is a great way to bed a trap .
Good luck,
Don

Thanks golf ball I may buy a cookie cutter because I feel like apart from pushing on the jaws of the trap I'm also digging my bed too wide though I have been practing

Stick with it.You will be much improved by Fall.