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At first I didn't second guess it, that's fine its for the coyotes, but now its for raccoons and then it became something to do for most if not all sets because of the coyotes around. I have started to shift over to drags or just chaining to a big log or a tree or something, because it seems like a step backwards. It becomes too cumbersome, there has to be a better way. How big of a drag do you need for a coyote? I was thinking a big log about 40-80 pounds or so. I know by chaining to an immovable object it defeats the purpose of a drag but I would rather carry extra chain than extra rebar. People have told me of using 12-16 inch fox stakes and wooden stakes for fox and coon back in the day, so I'm just confused on how exactly strong these animals really are. Its hard for me because i'm way stronger than a coon or fox (I hope lol) so when I test stakes power I wonder if that's the power even exerted or if its way more.
Well there Isn't going to be a BIG LOG at every location and I can't see hunting around for one and then dragging It to that location. Use cable stakes and In most cases your going to be OK with just One. But If the ground Is a bit suspect you can always cross stake with cable stakes.
That's a heavy log! Old times used 20 lb rocks in desert type terrain. Beav is correct on the cross staking. Double them up it you aren't sure. Specially in sandy soil. I started out= rebar and drags. Now I use custom Fox Hollow type stakes and Saber Tooth drags
Keeperofthecoons. He is the Sabertooth Drag. They make a smaller version for fox and bobcat All here is a pic of my custom chain set up. By Josh on here at Furshed Fabraction
Thanks guys I appreciate it, I was potentiality thinking about earth anchors and your right, there isn't going to be a big log at every location and im not dragging one lol. Alot of my trapping is in brush country but when I do use stakes I was trying to get past the double staking method, perhaps by making a very long stake like a 30-35 inch stake so you could only use one. The main thing is having to buy the pieces for it but I though I saw on here somewhere where someone took 2 S hooks and connected them to a swivel point and then to your trap chain so you could drive the stakes through one of the loops on each side and double stake, but im not sure, that's why I was trying to find a way around it. Also I am a little unsure of metal drags as my grampa told me a long time ago that he tried them a few times and could never find the animal afterwards, therefor im unsure about metal drags
Also I want to mention that my ground is rather thick with clay, if that helps with anything. Its not sandy, but in some cases rocky with shell but its mostly heavy clay.
12” Earth anchors will work. If you can’t move it then neither will a coyote. A single rebar stake will work if you have a long chain the coyote can’t pump. A short chain and he’ll pump it out of the deck. I use 12” super stakes and have never had an issue. I used to use 18” but they were about impossible to get out when that clay dries. 12” is tough enough. If it’s a good spot to come back to just mark it and leave until next season.
I think part of the equation besides soil type is when are your checking traps. If you have to wait until after work there can be a lot of time for an animal to work on a single stake.
BF
Author of The Lure Hunter: A Guide to Finding Fishing Lures
If you trap in brush country you could just spend $50 And make a crap load of 1/8" extension cables. Make one loop big enough to slip your trap throug and and another for you jhook. You should be able to find a tree or somthing good enough to the to with in 10 feet. I mean you should be able to carry a dos3n or so 10' extensions couple up on your back pocket pretty easy. Your going to have to replace them after every catch but again their cheap and even with low fur prices a few critters should pay for as many as you need for the season.
Now if you want to stake it's better to cross stake. If you use a long stake your basically hammering the same amount. Remember to always anchor for bear. You can also just go the cable stake route. If your going to have to hammer might as well keep the weight down if you go and drop the money and buy a stake puller you can save your back money and time. In dead of cable make them out of chain and hard line them into your trap. Now on the subject of drags. Your grand dad probably was using the old grapple drags and not all drags are made the same. Them old grapple where made to catch in thick thick stuff and are ok if you have that how ever what you want is a plow type drag if you dont want that critter moving and dont want to rely on the drag cathing on brush. And a good one . Don't skimp. A good one will anchor a critter in a grass pasture and if not it's going to leave marks you'll be blind not be able to see. If you have a welder and grinder you can make some fine ones if your willing to put in the time to make them right . Personally I prefer having all my stuff on drags because I can have more options. A drag with 10' of chain let's you use it as a regular trap and drag combo or you can drive a stake though the drag eye and that trap just ain't going any where. You can keep some quick clips and anchor to trees with the drag chain or heck you can just in do the chain fro. The drag and anchor off like normal. Short chain you just don't have all them options. You also don't have to bury your drag. Most folks have just gone to tossing the drag and chain behind the set and give the first foot or so of chain. Also some drags are made to let to animal get some distance from the set like the jc conners tracker drags and the mb trail blazer. Any how here a plow drag I make
For years I used rebar with what I called the coyote bend all my stakes would have a bend about 1/3 up the stake. This increased the holding ability never had one pumped out.
I'm a disposal stake user and I leave them all behind. But for the ones who want to re use their stakes re bar Is probably the way to go. Since when Is It that hard to carry a couple of re bar stakes from the truck to the set. I very seldom ever use a drag. When I check a trap I want It to be right where I set It. I don't have time to go stumbling around looking for a caught animal. Most of the time I can enter a field and use my binos to check sets you can't do that when using drags. The less disturbance In your set areas the better off you are.
Wolfdog91. That's a fine looking drag! Looks like a rebar version of a Saber Tooth Drag. 1 of th 3 coyotes I caught today was on drag. He was stuck in high grass. Till he saw me coming The he made it in side woods didn't go 15 yards total. Heck he was only 5 when I first so him
I use finned super stakes and run #2 chain to the center and the puller. They hold and when i want them back I just use the puller chain and head on down the line.
Wolfdog91. That's a fine looking drag! Looks like a rebar version of a Saber Tooth Drag. 1 of th 3 coyotes I caught today was on drag. He was stuck in high grass. Till he saw me coming The he made it in side woods didn't go 15 yards total. Heck he was only 5 when I first so him
Basically, prongs are are longer and angled in a different way to make them cork screw. Made a dozen out of 5/8 rebar for a friend in one of the corn belt states and he said they where pinning coyotes down in frozen ground out there
I have held a lot of critters from beavers to coyotes to 30lb + coons in single 24" long 1/2" rebar stakes. The only losses ever occurred on a rare occasion when it was bone dry setting them, followed by torrential rains for 3 days turning the ground to pure slop.