For the people that have used them and built them with either the eye screws or bolts, have.you had issues with beaver popping the the end caps off or having the bolts/screws break out of the caps? Final ran into a situation where these are probably my only hope of catching beaver shy of making a bunch of cages.

My concern is to weather I can anchor the snare to the screw then attach an extension to the eye or if I should just thread the extension through the bolt and attach it the snare directly to the extension. Probably will do direct to the extension regardless.

For those wondering, here's the build idea from the archives

https://trapperman.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/6570681/all/beaver-torpedos

its a lake and im goin to be in a kayak. snares will be anchored to trees.

Water in this lake really fluctuating ? Loop around tree, drive small finish nail or piece of wire in tree ..hang loop.. smear castor or sac oil about foot above loop on tree..done deal

Very little trees in the lake where the issue is mostly bedrock.

The floats are the only option

Now I'm confused

Trees on the bank fallen logs but we're far afield of the question which is how well the caps stay on with a beaver fighting the snare

Pm aix. Sorry just tried to give you option.

Interesting ideas, wish we could use snares here for open water beaver.

They're great tools, especially if you're about to get into a situation like I am. If I couldn't use snares, there's a lot of places I wouldn't even bother setting for beaver

Whenever I shared beaver torpedos, I was sharing an idea, not a product. I learn as I go along, and I encourage others to share their experiences as they make and use different designs of it. There are numerous ways to build Torps that work well, but what you can do with them depends on how you built them. I planned on sharing more tonight, but family obligations prevented me from doing it. A thorough explanation will have to wait until another day, but I will get you started tonight.


When I built torps to share, I built two basic designs. The first was just 2" PVC with 1/2" rebar the length of the PVC, filled with spray foam, and then the caps were attached. I would either use a screw eye or an eye bolt on the rear cap. The snare would be anchored separately. My second design, and the one that I have used more often has a 3/8"x15" eye bolt that goes through the entire Torp, with a 12/0 swivel and a stop nut on the end. I liked this one, because it was an all-in-one. I have never had problems using this design, because I designed it and understood it, so troubleshooting was never a problem. However, because it only had the eye bolt for the ballast weight, it was more sensitive than the larger version with the rebar. Showing what I mean and how to fix it is easy. Explaining it to someone experiencing problems isn't.

The design that people have mentioned to me that I would recommend trying is to attach an eye bolt to the PVC pipe 1.5" from each end. This would be for people that want to attach the snare to the Torp without having the 15" eyebolt or a long piece of all-thread. The front one for your snare, the rear one for your anchor. I do believe this would work well, although I have not tried it personally, so I can not say with certainty. If you want to try something new and must have an all in one, I suggest trying this.



If you want to build something that you know will work and you can anchor your snare, build this: 2" PVC 20" long, put a 19-20" piece of 1/2" rebar in it, put a cap. Fill with foam, add the rear cap. Set it in the yard for a day. This will allow the foam to set with the rebar on the bottom. Float it in your bathtub, mark the dorsal side, twist your 14 gauge wire to hang your snare off of the front, and somehow secure your snare and torp. There are lots of ways to do this. Stake, cable, earth anchor, etc.


I'll post more when I can...

Have a good one,

Thanks Aix. A plan is starting to come together. Though right now I'm kinda at the Jaws moment of, "I need a bigger boat" to haul the beaver on this job.

AIX showed me his Idea and how it worked. I took his Idea and am working on the same concept with rats also. The one change I have done is I use cable in the tube, not the eye bolt. counterbalance the bottom. Jeff came up with a good out of the box method.

Im guessing you mean your running it as a short extension through the entire pipe? Would certainly be a heckuva lot cheaper.

Cable? Brilliant.


That’s why I like feedback.

There’s an idea that I haven’t tried yet that could be an option for some....

Wooden fence posts. Cut a piece and use it like a torpedo. Use fence staples to attach a length of 3/8 rebar for the ballast weight. How long the wooden torp would have to be likely depends on the diameter of the post. If anyone wants to try it, let us know how it works

works well Jeff.

Finally getting some of the torpedos finished up. I found it's a good idea to let em soak in the tub a day or two in case they take on water from holes you made that the foam didn't seal. Had to uncap or drill a hole to add more foam on a few.

Also found that drilling holes through the pipe to run your wire through makes getting the wire stable much easier.

You all have me enthralled now. Like number 5 in Short Circuit "Need Input". Lol

Well today didn't go so well on the maiden voyage of my torpedos. They floated fine with everything on the right side. Everything was fine till the snares were added. Not sure if I had enough foam in them or not. Managed to get about a dozen out of my kayak set but it was frustrating and couldn't quite get some.of em the way I wanted

Sniperb please share what you learn. Maybe more foam???