Hi everyone, I am new to the forum and new to trapping. I just bought a 66 acre acreage. I am having alot of trouble with red squirrels. They are getting into everything including the roof. I shot one so far but I really want to trap them and save the fur. The one I shot is already skinned out and ready for the next step. My problem is I dont want to shoot them. I want to trap them for better fur. I set out some snares but the squirrels are not getting caught. I am wondering if I can use my 110 conibear traps for red squirrels or are they a bit to big? Also can someone explain and if possible with pictures how to snare red squirrels effectively please.

P.s. I am trying to get my trappers course but covid is really screwing that over lol.

A rat trap with peanut butter should do the trick

Set a snare pole about 1inch to 1 1/2in diameter along their travel pathway. For squirrel snaring I prefer 16 lb test stainless steel fishing line as it’s a bit finer than the 24-gage brass wire and more flexible providing quicker loop closing IMO. Loop size of 1 ½ inches preferred but no larger than 1 ¾ inches with height off pole of 1 inch (length of a 22LR cartridge and bullet) being my preference.

Snare tied and mounted on pole as shown in the following photo:


The 1-inch tag end above the loop discourages jumping over the loop. Snare tied on the side of the pole, and crossing over the pole below the snare loop discourages ducking under and/or around the loop.

Normal bush setup is as in these photos:

I'm pretty sure there's a good thread in the archives on snarling squirrels. But 110's should be fine too

I have decimated some squirrels using 110 conibears. I had to do it around a town where I didnt want to catch cats or anything else that walks on the ground. So I took a mink box, screwed it on to a flat branch, threw bird seed (which is what they were stealing and why I was trapping them in the first place) in the back of the box, set the trigger so it was on the jaw furthest inside the box so they dont hit the trigger with their paw reaching and only get slapped. Keeping the trigger deep ensures they will be to far in when it fires and are sure to meet their maker. I caught a lot of squirrels doing this. The horizontal branch was close to their path to they took to the bird feeders. I dont recall what shape I set the trigger, but it was a top down trigger (wire) and I set it light. Also the backs of the boxes had wire mesh, so they weren't totally closed in.

rat trap in a weasel box with Peanut butter on the pan or behind the trap the box keeps out birds

110's with a pc of sponge on the triggers lathered in PB

Here’s what helped me shorten my learning curve by decades. Join your state trapping assn, Google it. ANd contact officers off their site and ask for a mentor to ride along with. MANY states have their own forums. Like here in NC. And TN has 2 and Va has 2 also and KY too. A mentor helps Learn trap prep and techniques and tricks and the laws in YOUR state regarding jaw spreads, shock springs, etc, etc. (( Laws vary a lot from state to state so BEWARE of FB and utube. You can be shown things that are illegal in your state!.)) This gets you in the info loop of FREE trappers ed classes and meets and fur sales/pick ups, and conventions. Then attend ALL YOU CAN, this shows folks you are serious and will be a good student. It sure helped open many doors for me and it could for you as well. ALSO, get several different trapping supply catalogs, like MTP, Sterling Fur, FandT, PCS, Flemings, Northern Outdoors, Trap Shack, Schmitt enterprises, Southeastern outdoor supplies, JR & Sons, Grawes, rpoutdoors, etc etc, THEN circle gear you need, and give the catalogs to loved ones to buy your Birthday and Christmas and July 4 and Easter and Anniversary gifts. Explain to them, you want their money to go towards what you will use and need, as opposed to another sweater hanging in your closet. WORKS GREAT in our family.