When using a conibear in a cubby set for coon, do you place your triggers facing up or down?

Up and have them in a low T pattern

A long as the trigger Is free to move and the trap will go off I don't think It makes any difference.

What is the purpose of the low T pattern. I know what it is, and I assume it's to allow the animal to make it further into the trap to suit case it?

IMO body grip trap triggers should most always be on the bottom in any blind trail, ground cubby or box set, with the general exception being diving water sets. I don't think animals like ducking under something any more than I do, but will push through small twigs or grass. Also with the wires hanging down in an inverted V form the animal can often IMO slip under the wires and get to far into the trap resulting in a bad strike.

Btomcat how many coon have you caught In blind trail sets. Just asking.

I have lost track, and when using a 160 sized BG all you need to do Is twist the wires together or just make them close together In the center of the opening and your going to have dead coon. The other thing Is that most stands are not bottom trigger positioned friendly. Same with a 160 box just place the triggers In the middle of the opening then the coon will place it's nose to one side or the other and be caught right behind the ears.
The only time I ever placed the triggers on the bottom Is when I was 330 beaver trapping when the trap was partially out of the water. Then I formed the trigger wires In the shape of a T and were under water and out of sight.
I caught a few marten In elevated vertical boxes using 120s and all the triggers were formed In a V shape to close off the opening as best we could.

[quote=The Beav]Btomcat how many coon have you caught In blind trail sets. Just asking./quote] Very few and those were years ago. My concern re trigger position is in regard to most other species BG's are used for.

I like mine on top in a V pattern with it set on the first notch. When coons are moving they've got places to go so tend to barrel through. You want it to keep its head down and moving with a quick snap.

If I was trapping marten In horizontal boxes I would get rid of the triggers and do the pan thing. Same with trapping mink or should I say trying to trap mink In boxes I would also use a pan type set up.

Dont need to go to all that bother and expense.
The LDL B 120 mag is the marten trap of choice.The dog nor trigger ever touches the fur no matter how they are set.

When using the square white plastic cubby buckets for 220s, what do you guys use to secure the trap chain?

Whan I teach basic snaring I start with.
"animals even you dont want anything to push on their nose or ears.So they target the center of the loop"

There for.
It's Circle triggers on all my body grip traps.
OR Pans in boxs

Rebar

For coons in 160s I have the trigger in a v from the top with the V about 2 inches wide at the bottom and centered in the trap. I also try to figure out which way the coon will be coming down the trail as I set the trap so the trigger jaw is away from the anticipated travel. To me this gets the coon about an inch further in the trap and with the 2nd notch most are caught right behind the base of the skull. Rats in body grippers I go the other way with the triggers on the bottom with a V formation. I use colored duct tape on mine as that is lighter then bait or other heavier items.

Bryce