Recently picked up some rusty old 110's off ebay, which turned out to be Victor square jawed 110's. Other than not having 4 way triggers, they did have another interesting feature.......a bump out in the notch of the trigger clip. They all have it, so appears to have been made that way. End result is the dog seats deep and secure, yet traps are quick to fire. The bump out would make the notch in the clip wider, so any rotation of the triggers starts prying the dog up quicker. Like a larger diameter gear.....some amount of rotation moves the edge a greater distance.

This is the same result as the nail trick modification used on the Duke 110's with sloppy triggers.

Seeing how well these work, seems like it might be a good idea on all body grips? Make the notch a bit deeper, and include the bump out?

File the dog

never had to do it on bigger traps they have a heavier clip to begin with and beaver and otter hit hard enough so all you need is minimum travel
what ever you do make sure you prep them dye, dip wax clean whatever before you start making trigger adjustments

I have some old 110's purchased in the 70's. Yes, look the same as yours. Triggers work great.

Yup......might be a misunderstanding as to why I mentioned these. Other than not having the 4 way triggers, those old Victors work well. They set easy, stay set, yet fire quickly. Just what you want.

T-man member Coon Duke has a good video on tuning Duke 110's, which seem to have sloppy triggers that move an inch or two before the trap fires. The way he shows to fix the clip, using a nail, puts in the same little bump out on the trigger clip notch. Basically, duplicating what the old Victor traps came with when new. Just saying it might be a good idea for the folks making these traps to do them all that way.

BTW, on the 4 way triggers, took me a while to figure out how that works. On these old Victors, the clip is more or less round......so no gap below the jaws.....so clip can rotate, but not rock or rise up side to side. At least not far enough to pry the dog up so it looses it's grip on the round jaws. Traps with 4 way triggers, clip has an oblong or oval shaped hole surrounding the jaws. On the newer Victors, and some others, notch is even V shaped......bottom of notch in the clip is nearly same width as the dog. Seats deep enough to hold, but movement in any direction pries the dog up and fires the trap.

Dog improvement diagram is in the Basic Sets forum.
Probably Don’t need the nail/punch trick with those bumps but won’t know till ya tune the dogs and get them fully seated.

I've found that setting the trap without the clip in the way gives the best indication of what is going on with the dog. If dog seats deep and conforms to the jaws, with no gaps anywhere, dog is not the problem.

I'm thinking that messing with the dog is barking up the wrong tree. Most of the fault I'm finding is with the clips.

I added to a different post yesterday. I just received a dozen Duke 110 magnums. I set 2 and the triggers need no adjustment. Also, the outside of the box reads made in Korea. Didn't they used to be made in China? Maybe they have corrected the trigger slop problem.

Those were good triggers for sure. The bump now makes sense to me thanks for sharing this.
Jim

I bought Victor 110 traps when I started trapping muskrat back in 1980's. Guest what I am still using them today. I had to add a spring to most of them and replaced some triggers. I believe the quality of steel was much better back then. Just my opinion