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https://ohioline.osu.edu/factsheet/F-68

Foliar Spraying

Honeysuckle sprouts as a result of cutting off the shrub at the ground. A follow-up foliar herbicide application can now be applied. Photo by Kathy Smith, OSU Extension, School of Environment and Natural Resources.
Foliar spraying is a method of control in which diluted herbicide is sprayed directly on the leaves of the targeted plants. This can be a very effective method of controlling honeysuckle but should only be used when the target plants are within easy reach of the sprayer. Spraying directed at less accessible plants can damage or kill valuable non-target plants through herbicide drift or overspray. In addition, care needs to be taken to ensure that herbicides are sprayed to wet the foliage but not to the point of runoff.

Bush honeysuckle leaves remain green and active late into fall (mid to late October) when most native plant species have gone dormant. Foliar applications of some herbicides can be used at this time with little or no impact to non-target species especially after the first hard frost in the fall. Herbicides recommended for foliar spraying of bush honeysuckle are listed in Table 1.

T​able 1: Herbicides recommended for foliar treatment of bush honeysuckle.
Herbicide Example Brand Names Comments1
glyphosate Roundup, Accord, and other herbicides containing at least 41% glyphosate Apply solution of 2% herbicide in water (vol/vol) when leaves are green; add a surfactant if not in herbicide.
2,4-D + triclopyr Crossbow Wet foliage and stems with 1–1.5 gallons Crossbow in 100 gallons water; spot spray with 0.25 pt (1/2 cup) Crossbow in 3 gallons water.
triclopyr Garlon 3A, Tahoe 3A Apply solution 3–5% (vol/vol) of herbicide in water when leaves are green.*
*A surfactant at .25% vol/vol rate may be added to the various triclopyr formulations when foliar spraying.
1These comments are not intended to be a substitute for the herbicide labels. To ensure the safe and effective use of the herbicides recommended in this publication read the label and SDS (Safety Data Sheet).
Cut Stump Herbicide Treatment
Cut stump treatments are a very effective method for controlling many undesirable woody shrubs and work well on bush honeysuckle. This method involves cutting the shrub off close to the ground and applying an herbicide to the cut surfaces (and sometimes the bark) with a spray bottle, paintbrush, roller, or wicking device.

Whether to use an oil or water soluble herbicide depends on the timing of the herbicide application after the cut. Herbicides carried in water should be applied to the outer 1/3 of the top of the stump within minutes of making the cut.

Utilize an oil soluble herbicide when planning to cut and later return to treat the stumps. Apply the oil soluble herbicide to the entire top and sides of the cut stump but not to the point of excessive runoff. Apply anytime as long as the stumps are dry and not frozen.

Herbicides (both water- and oil-soluble) recommended for cut stump treatments of bush honeysuckle are listed in Table 2. Late summer, early fall, or dormant season applications have all proven to be effective. Avoid applications during sap-flow (spring) as this lessens the effectiveness of the herbicide application.

T​able 2: Herbicides recommended for cut stump treatment of bush honeysuckle.
Herbicide Example Brand Names Comments1
glyphosate Roundup, Accord, and others Apply 20% active ingredient to outer third of cut stem/stump surface immediately after cutting.
2,4-D + picloram Pathway, Tordon RTU Apply undiluted to surface of cut stem immediately after cutting.
Tordon 101 Apply undiluted or diluted 1:1 with water.
2,4-D + triclopyr Crossbow Apply solution of 4% Crossbow in diesel fuel, fuel oil, or kerosene.
triclopyr Garlon 4, Garlon 4 Ultra, Tahoe 4E, Remedy, and others Apply 20% Garlon 4 + 10% penetrate (e.g. Cide-Kick II) in diesel, fuel oil, kerosene, or basal oil (penetrate not needed with basal oil).
1These comments are not intended to be a substitute for the herbicide labels. To ensure the safe and effective use of the herbicides recommended in this publication read the label and SDS (Safety Data Sheet).
Basal Spraying

A basal application of herbicide needs to be made to the lower 12–18 inches of the honeysuckles' stems. Photo by Kathy Smith, OSU Extension, School of Environment and Natural Resources.
A basal application for bush honeysuckle refers to the spraying of a labeled herbicide mixed with an oil-based carrier on the lower 12–18 inches of the stem. The herbicide is sprayed, ensuring that the stems are wet but not to the point of runoff. Basal treatments should only be applied when the areas to be treated are dry and not frozen. The basal treatments recommended in Table 3 should be applied during the dormant season (winter or spring). Due to the arching nature of bush honeysuckle shrubs, access to the lower portion of the shrubs trunk is not always easy to achieve. Care should be taken to ensure that the chemical being applied is reaching the lower portion of the shrub's trunk and not merely being applied in its general vicinity.

Table 3: Herbicides recommended for basal spraying of bush honeysuckle.
Herbicide Example Brand Names Comments1
triclopyr + imazapyr Garlon 4 and Stalker Apply a solution of 15% Garlon 4 + 3% Stalker + 82% Ax-It basal oil mixed by volume.
triclopyr Garlon 4, Garlon 4 Ultra Apply a solution of 20% Garlon 4 in basal oil (Ax-It or Arborchem). Diesel fuel may also be used as a carrier but this requires that a 10% penetrant (such as Cide-Kick II) must also be added.
2,4-D + triclopyr Crossbow Apply a 4% solution of Crossbow in diesel oil, fuel oil, or kerosene.
1These comments are not intended to be a substitute for the herbicide labels. To ensure the safe and effective use of the herbicides recommended in this publication read the label and SDS (Safety Data Sheet).

Round Up (or any killer) and Dawn dish washing detergent. The Dawn breaks down the protective coating on the leaves and allows the round up to do its job. Works great on poison ivy and lily pads in ponds as well.

ALSO: According to the USFS, the seeds will remain viable for up to 10 years on the ground, so your gonna get new sprouts, but, in the spring, when the soil is wet and loose, you can just pull up small plants by hand and just throw them down, when the roots dry they're dead.

Glyphosate falters once brush gets woody. I've been fighting trifoliate orange (mock orange, flying dragon) on our farms for years. It is very thorny, with waxy leaves. Glyphosate kills about 25% of the time, but usually just stunts it and it comes back resistant. The triclopyr herbicides, I like Remedy Ultra work great. It works good on most any tree you can get the leaves covered. I have even had success spraying eastern cedar foliar. I use a hot mix, 6 oz Remedy, 2 oz nonionic surfactant per gallon. Here you need a license for it.

When you mix Roundup (glyphosate) with anything better take note that you could be lessoning its potential control for plants. Non-ionic surfactants and/or sprayer grade AMS are the only additives recommended by the the manufacturer. So anything that has some free ions like soap or oil, diesel, kerosene etc., has an antagonistic reaction with the glyphosate and you are only getting a part of its killing power. Use distilled water if mixing a small batch or some AMS with your tap water when mixing Roundup (softened water with salt is also a no-no.).......... Manufacture's recommendations are always a good way to go.............. the mike

I made good progress on the invasive honeysuckle today. This is the best time of year to attack it. That is some dastardly stuff.

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Drill some holes in the trunk and use a syringe to fill the holes. Or just cut off some of the limbs and apply.

In about a month I will start hitting the wild parsnip with Roundup. Then in July I will switch to Buckthorn.

Diesel fuel ?? ..... Can i use 12 year old single malt scotch ?? ... Its cheaper

oriental barberry

Goats and sheep work great for controlling honeysuckle.

41% Gly mixed at 2oz per gallon of water will kill EVERYTHING.

I just sprayed a bunch of fence line earlier in the week.

Hit the bigger bushes last Saturday with a mix of Remedy and diesel using basal spray method and already seeing results. Anything bigger than 2-3" diameter gets the "hack and squirt" treatment.

Tordon is good for small jobs (premixed quart) of saplings. I killed some 6" diameter honey locusts and sweet gums with it. Drilled a 1/2" hole at a downward angle and filled it with Tordon. Smaller stuff I used hack and squirt method

WHATEVER you do, read the label and/or get professional advice.
If you have an ag chemical sales place they can advise you on what to use and rates to apply

I hit the Honeysuckle and Buckthorn starting in july. I'll hit any other woody plant then too that I find. I find they are easier to kill later in the summer when they are putting energy into the roots rather than pulling energy out as they are in early spring.

Cut stump treatment is the best for several reasons.
1) it targets the specific plant only, foliar spray will kill anything and everything else that gets hit with the spray. You don't want to kill those trilliums growing under the honeysuckle bush your targeting for example. You don't want to create dead zones that foliar spraying gives you. Those dead zones are openings for other invasive stuff.
2) you use less herbicide, just a small dab on the stump kills it. Use herbicide with a dye and foaming agent in it and you can see which ones have been treated and the herbicide stays where you put it.

I go after garlic mustard first in the spring as soon as the ground is soft enough to pull plants. I pull it, it seems to work best.
Right now I'm going after Reed canary Grass, I use a grass specific herbicide spot treating plants.
Next I go after Dame's rocket, again pulling it.
Then I'll go after sweet clovers, again pulling it.
Then Honeysuckle and buckthorn, cut stump and treat.

I don't have any wild parsnip so I'm glad for that.

There other invasives that I'll hit when I run across them, birds foot trefoil, barberry, autumn olive, musk thistle and multi flora rose. those are far and few between tho.

Also burning is a good thing, smaller hineysuckle, garlic mustard and smaller buckthorn are killed by fire. Fire helps to tamp down further invasions. Most natives are immune to fire when timed properly.

Tordon!!

2 ways to kill Honeysuckle Bush:

Chainsaw it off as short as you can, treat stump with Roundup mixed 50/50 with Diesel fuel or water with a bottle of cheap food color added so you can see where you've been, quickest but expensive.

Cut off 3-4 feet from the ground, and using a mattock, chop 360 deg around the base to cut the roots, and use what's left of the trunk as a handle to pull it up. They rarely have a tap root, that's why they do so well in thin soil and glades. Once the root is dry the plant is dead.

The seeds are fecond for up to 10 years, and you will have to follow up annually.

The tops can be piled up for Rabbitat. (habitat for Rabbits)

I rarely use Tordon anymore. It presents too much of a risk of killing nearby desirable trees.

I attended a fantastic invasive workshop Thur @ Ft McCoy. They talked a lot about garlic mustard. They said a bio control is in the works to potentially be able to naturally fight garlic mustard. That would be a game changer.
Maybe bio controls will be available for other invasives in the future. Of course there is always the concern that a well intended insect release could unintentionally cause another problem if the insect itself turns out to be a pest.
They handed out free boot cleaners at the seminar...a device to pick & brush seeds out of boots.

I typically just put my goats in an area I want cleared out.