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chain and drags #7155677
01/26/21 02:27 PM
01/26/21 02:27 PM
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 268
Indiana
H
Hunter23 Offline OP
trapper
Hunter23  Offline OP
trapper
H

Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 268
Indiana
I need to set up some drags. What chain is big enough to hold coyote and cats that i don't have to invest a fortune in?

Re: chain and drags [Re: Hunter23] #7155703
01/26/21 02:50 PM
01/26/21 02:50 PM
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 723
Burton, Michigan
M
Mousey Trapper Offline
trapper
Mousey Trapper  Offline
trapper
M

Joined: May 2008
Posts: 723
Burton, Michigan
Number 2 chain and put 10' on each drag. You will set to go trapping.

Re: chain and drags [Re: Hunter23] #7156670
01/26/21 11:57 PM
01/26/21 11:57 PM
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 427
McCamey,TX usa
Govtrapper Offline
trapper
Govtrapper  Offline
trapper

Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 427
McCamey,TX usa
I like x3 chain. At least 8' but I prefer more 10 to 12'

Re: chain and drags [Re: Hunter23] #7156686
01/27/21 12:12 AM
01/27/21 12:12 AM
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 6,004
alabama
steeltraps Offline
trapper
steeltraps  Offline
trapper

Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 6,004
alabama
# 3 chain works well with Saber Tooth drags. I used 8 ft plus and had good luck till I got on the sand dunes of West Texas

Re: chain and drags [Re: Hunter23] #7156697
01/27/21 12:22 AM
01/27/21 12:22 AM
Joined: Jan 2021
Posts: 790
NW Oregon
3
330 Belisle Offline
trapper
330 Belisle  Offline
trapper
3

Joined: Jan 2021
Posts: 790
NW Oregon
#3 10 feet


- 330 Belisle
Re: chain and drags [Re: Hunter23] #7157016
01/27/21 09:25 AM
01/27/21 09:25 AM
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 3,387
SD
Boone Liane Offline
trapper
Boone Liane  Offline
trapper

Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 3,387
SD
I like #3. Little heavier than 2 and the extra chain weight allows me to go to a lighter drag (smaller footprint in the trap bed).

I run 10-12 foot.

Re: chain and drags [Re: Hunter23] #7157182
01/27/21 11:28 AM
01/27/21 11:28 AM
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 1,100
Southern Nevada
C
cat_trapper_nv Offline
"Cat Master"
cat_trapper_nv  Offline
"Cat Master"
C

Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 1,100
Southern Nevada
If youre asking what chain is big enough then you coul use some cheap twin loop chain, if you want what most use or suggest, then #2 or #3 quality chain. Length is only relevant to your area so take what people suggest with a grain of salt.


If traps work like the Antis say......I would have no fingers.


Re: chain and drags [Re: Hunter23] #7157504
01/27/21 03:53 PM
01/27/21 03:53 PM
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 93
NORTH DAKOTA
R
RedIShedND Offline
trapper
RedIShedND  Offline
trapper
R

Joined: May 2019
Posts: 93
NORTH DAKOTA
I like 12' #5 chain and mb drags, every 4' swivel I pre order 4' pieces was same price, leaves me a nice trail in black fields, pasture land or snow covered, I have my trusty k9 too help locate, swivels and chain length will save you issues, boil oil off and fmj the chain it'll look new for years

Last edited by RedeyeND; 01/27/21 03:59 PM.
Re: chain and drags [Re: Hunter23] #7157531
01/27/21 04:11 PM
01/27/21 04:11 PM
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,600
KY
A
AnthonyT Offline
trapper
AnthonyT  Offline
trapper
A

Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,600
KY
I use 10' of #3 on my drags. I don't use drags everywhere but do use them a fair amount. Plenty of brush here so a critter never makes it far from where I have prehooked the drag. Biggest deciding factor on if I use a drag or not is if the ground is too rocky to drive a wolf fang into.

Re: chain and drags [Re: Hunter23] #7158847
01/28/21 02:05 PM
01/28/21 02:05 PM
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 11,165
Central NC
T
traprjohn Offline
trapper
traprjohn  Offline
trapper
T

Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 11,165
Central NC
I use 6 ft of #2 chain.
Since i trap old logging rds I pre-hook lil 1 lb drags to saplings or clogs.
I don't have time to hunt for a catch. This also leaves scent near the set to attract others.
WHEN a coon or cat climbs, it is still head high and easy to dispatch, not 10 ft up.
Known of several guys that either had to chop down or climb to dispatch.
This system won't work for some folks tho.
I add 2 other swivels in the first 2 ft of chain.
Drags save time, not only setting, but also pulling out, and don't need pulled at seasons end (my back is messed up enough).



www.sevenoakstrappingsupplies.com for trap mods and gear
The 10 Commandments are not suggestions.
Buy a soldiers meal EVERY chance you can.

Re: chain and drags [Re: Hunter23] #7159387
01/28/21 07:47 PM
01/28/21 07:47 PM
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 268
Indiana
H
Hunter23 Offline OP
trapper
Hunter23  Offline OP
trapper
H

Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 268
Indiana
Thanks guys.

Re: chain and drags [Re: Hunter23] #7160125
01/29/21 09:17 AM
01/29/21 09:17 AM
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 834
NE NE
W
Wife Offline
trapper
Wife  Offline
trapper
W

Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 834
NE NE
I guess I'm the odd man out when we talk of this subject. Any and all metal grapples alone do not work for me in our frozen farm fields here. Most (99%) fur harvesters are fellows/gals doing it part time so a little extra added weight is ok to take to a set. I also do not like pulling frozen stakes or anchors in the winter so I use either a metal grapple or a wooden post as a drag and have for many years (especially in this farm country). I have the metal ones made so I can clip up to three individual 10 lb weights for 30 lbs of pull behind the 2 prong grapple. its the only way I use one here. The wooden posts are 6-8" diam. and 8 ' in length. In this open field country of 100-220 acres crop land/field I can stop our coyotes usually within 30-50 yards as they try to hide behind the post or concrete (makes for a good picture). The length of chain is salvaged car tire side chain in approx. 8' lengths, include another 1.5-2' for your trap set up for a total around 10'. It is all #3 or larger (guessing). Toss your drag (either type), pull chain tight, make set. No action when you want to go, its easy to pick up and store post or concrete in fence line field edge, take metal grapple home. With a pickup truck you can do 10-20 sets if 1/2 your drags (grapple or post) are on site and your other 1/2 are in the truck. That is usually enough for the average guy to set up. If you are in forested or grassland road areas both work well and either can be pre-positioned with chain for a lot more sets if you want... my take................... the mike

Re: chain and drags [Re: Mousey Trapper] #7161288
01/29/21 09:43 PM
01/29/21 09:43 PM
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 20
New Mexico
T
Tdub Offline
trapper
Tdub  Offline
trapper
T

Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 20
New Mexico
Originally Posted by Wife
I guess I'm the odd man out when we talk of this subject. Any and all metal grapples alone do not work for me in our frozen farm fields here. Most (99%) fur harvesters are fellows/gals doing it part time so a little extra added weight is ok to take to a set. I also do not like pulling frozen stakes or anchors in the winter so I use either a metal grapple or a wooden post as a drag and have for many years (especially in this farm country). I have the metal ones made so I can clip up to three individual 10 lb weights for 30 lbs of pull behind the 2 prong grapple. its the only way I use one here. The wooden posts are 6-8" diam. and 8 ' in length. In this open field country of 100-220 acres crop land/field I can stop our coyotes usually within 30-50 yards as they try to hide behind the post or concrete (makes for a good picture). The length of chain is salvaged car tire side chain in approx. 8' lengths, include another 1.5-2' for your trap set up for a total around 10'. It is all #3 or larger (guessing). Toss your drag (either type), pull chain tight, make set. No action when you want to go, its easy to pick up and store post or concrete in fence line field edge, take metal grapple home. With a pickup truck you can do 10-20 sets if 1/2 your drags (grapple or post) are on site and your other 1/2 are in the truck. That is usually enough for the average guy to set up. If you are in forested or grassland road areas both work well and either can be pre-positioned with chain for a lot more sets if you want... my take................... the mike



I'll second the log idea, I used to use them quite a bit before I had enough drags made up. Mine were roughly the same size and worked great. My drag setups are at least 10 feet of chain, #3 preferred, all though I have some that about half of the 10 are something around #5 just cause I had it handy.

Re: chain and drags [Re: Wife] #7162314
01/30/21 04:08 PM
01/30/21 04:08 PM
Joined: Dec 2020
Posts: 309
AR
B
bigfoottrapper Offline
trapper
bigfoottrapper  Offline
trapper
B

Joined: Dec 2020
Posts: 309
AR
Originally Posted by Wife
I guess I'm the odd man out when we talk of this subject. Any and all metal grapples alone do not work for me in our frozen farm fields here. Most (99%) fur harvesters are fellows/gals doing it part time so a little extra added weight is ok to take to a set. I also do not like pulling frozen stakes or anchors in the winter so I use either a metal grapple or a wooden post as a drag and have for many years (especially in this farm country). I have the metal ones made so I can clip up to three individual 10 lb weights for 30 lbs of pull behind the 2 prong grapple. its the only way I use one here. The wooden posts are 6-8" diam. and 8 ' in length. In this open field country of 100-220 acres crop land/field I can stop our coyotes usually within 30-50 yards as they try to hide behind the post or concrete (makes for a good picture). The length of chain is salvaged car tire side chain in approx. 8' lengths, include another 1.5-2' for your trap set up for a total around 10'. It is all #3 or larger (guessing). Toss your drag (either type), pull chain tight, make set. No action when you want to go, its easy to pick up and store post or concrete in fence line field edge, take metal grapple home. With a pickup truck you can do 10-20 sets if 1/2 your drags (grapple or post) are on site and your other 1/2 are in the truck. That is usually enough for the average guy to set up. If you are in forested or grassland road areas both work well and either can be pre-positioned with chain for a lot more sets if you want... my take................... the mike

Do you use concrete blocks?

Re: chain and drags [Re: Hunter23] #7162852
01/30/21 09:44 PM
01/30/21 09:44 PM
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 834
NE NE
W
Wife Offline
trapper
Wife  Offline
trapper
W

Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 834
NE NE
I have not used a block in years. I cut the top off a plastic 2 liter bottle and use my own concrete. You can use Sakrete or mix your own and i have a piece of chain sticking out with a clip connector or a similar device to slip on the back edges and middle of the metal grapple. 30 lbs slows them down here. I have even refined it now to the plastic containers that are somewhat rectangular so they stack and don't roll so much in the truck bed. Each weighs about 10 lbs. which is easier for me to move and sometimes I only use 2. One gallon milk jugs are heavier and I have used them. No trees or shrubs here in our crop fields to wrap a metal drag around and when they (fields) are froze, NO grapple has worked for me without added weight. There are lots of existing abandoned and demolished farmsteads with concrete around. So concrete (like a wooden fence post) is part of the landscape --- placed in gullies and erosion cuts field edges, creek banks etc. etc.. I have and do use Black, Round Accelerants too (car tires LOL) and plopped them on a fence post for next year when done but yotes get them farther than the other two for me. My tire set is a little different than what you see and what Major wrote about but it works for me............. my take........... the mike

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