Yep , time to change the front hub/bearing assemblies

May as well put new rotors and pads while it's apart


Just did mine ( 2016 ) wt Silverado a few months back

Rock Auto does seem to have great prices most of the time

.... worst advice I’ve ever heard June

.. and I grease my u-joints every hundred thousand miles wether they need it or not lol

.... hub assembly is what my wife’s tahoe ended up being... bought the assembly... jacked it up and put a chunk of fire wood under there.... cranked the bolts out of the old one and bolted the new one in... a few bolts and a plug was all there was to it... fairly easy fix

... the traction control light was going nuts as well as the noise from the hub

Like Loosegoose and Savell said, it's an easy job. I've never had to pound one off. Don't overtighten the spindle nut.
Also, you can sometimes tighten a slightly loose bearing and get some more miles out of it if you want to. There's not a lot of adjustment room on those spindles but there is some. I've done it and kept running for probably 15-20k miles before replacing. Another reason not to overtighten it when new.

Haven’t yet read the replies but that’s the only thing I’ve had replaced on my Silverado so far and it apparently is common. Jack it up whichever tire is loose is the winner. My mechanic suggested their like gloves when you change one you should change the other. They follow close together. I didn’t listen. I should have. Wasn’t three months behind the first.

Should be a 36 mm nut on the axle, 15mm 12 point i think that holds the brg on. I loosen the bolts and hammer on them to get the bearing off. Order new bolts when u get your bearing, the hammer isnt to nice to them. Its not a hard job, just do what the others said about the antisieze and sandpaper. Your bearing is probably original and going to be stuck on there.

I've been buying my stuff like that from Detroit axle. Good prices. Free shipping.

Yeah don't just hammer the axle nut on with an impact, it's hard on the bearings. Use a torque wrench.

Turn the radio up real loud and the noise will go away!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Classic bad front wheel bearing symptom. Now which one is the tricky part. As others have mentioned jack the front end up and spin each wheel by hand, also check for slack in the bearing in the same manner you would checknfor ball joint slack.

Don’t know what you use your truck for or what conditions you drive it in. But I have a 2008 Chevy Silverado that I use as a work truck driving miles of logging roads that expose my truck to fine silt. The wheel bearings in this truck can not withstand these conditions. I’m on my 3 rd set of front wheel bearings in 60,000 miles. That’s why my other pick up truck is a Toyota Tundra.

That almost happened to me on my 3 year old Silverado ...so close

Right side almost came off. 72,ooo miles. Just out of 7 yr.70,ooh mile warranty.

My knock around car, an older Toyota Corolla with 150K on it started making noise when I turned to the left if I remember correctly. My immediate thought was something in the front end going bad. i jacked it up but could not find anything lose or sloppy in the wheels or drive train. It only made the noise under load and not even all the time so I figured something was just starting to go south but not far enough along to leave me stranded so I did not rush it to the shop to get it checked out.

Then I noticed that the carpet on the passenger side front floorboard was damp and figured I had a heater core leak but no antifreeze smell and and no coolant loss.

Turned out that the condensate drain line was stopped up and when I turned left with the AC blower fan on, the collected water would get into the fan and make the noise I was hearing. And it would also leak out and keep the carpet wet. Got the drain cleaned out, the carpet dried up and the noise went away. It was amazing how much it sounded like a bearing in the front end going bad.

Detroit Axle has them for $92 bucks each! Thanks for the tip.

Be careful of some of that cheap stuff. I never tried Detroit axle bearings but have used several other bargain bearings. About a year or so later, the customer was back with the bearings out.

I'll still put cheap ones in for certain people, but I go with National or Moog for folks that want it "fixed".

Invest in a hub pulling tool. Trust me you will be glad.

Well I want good parts since I'm 1800 miles from home now! I think Moog was $128 from Rock Auto.