I haven't really seen anything on the new Sleepy Creek traps so I thought I'd throw this out there.

I just received my first dozen Sleepy Creek 1.75 CS, OS traps, (I've got another dozen coming next week.) They are significantly more expensive than some other traps but even with the additional cost they are impressive.

The springs are incredibly strong and Sleepy Creeks method of forming the offset by swaging vs. removing metal results in a nice wide and very rigid jaw. Just to be doing I'd like to order one Victor 1.75 F.O.J. just so I can make a direct comparison. I haven't verified the measurements but the frame and metal thickness looks like it's as advertised.

Another detail that stands out is the length of the trap jaws that stick through the frame. With the swaged offset and the extra length of jaw ends I don't think there will be any problem with them staying in the trap.

I am going to keep the twin loop chain that comes with the traps but will change the attachment point to a 9/16" split washer and JC Conner rod swivels like ky_coyote_hunter(?) posted on the machine vs twin loop chain thread. I'm switching out the pan bolts to stainless or getting brass nylon lock nuts to make the pan tension more consistent too. Minor details considering how the rest of the trap is built.


I'll try and snap some pics of the stock traps this weekend and post them.

The older ones had dogs and chains that would bend at times I'd think about changing the dogs at least, yes they are a good strong trap. I have a bunch myself and like them. The PIT pans lay nicely in them if you want to go that way.

Hey We-Sa, The steel in the Sleepy Creek traps is high quality, and the S.C. 1.75 is an excellent multi species trap, IMO.

My preference is towards the old round pan, closed jaw variety, but your offset design is better for strictly canines.

I included some pics that show a heavy duty Bob Custer "Top Dog" trap dog incorporated into my traps that will pretty much end the bent dogs that Law Dog talks about....These dogs are so thick, they have to be tapered on the end to fit into the notched pans of the S.C. 1.75 round pan models, but you wouldn't need that with the square straddle pan, just cut to your preferred length.

Also notice the bent up jaw ends that are easy with the extra jaw end length you mentioned, that's just extra coyote insurance, but probably not needed 99% of the time.

Thanks Law Dog and ky_coyote-Hunter.

I was concerned about the dogs and you guys confirmed it. I flipped the loose jaw over onto the captured jaw and "fired" the trap a couple of times and the dog was bent pretty good afterwards. I'll order new dogs this weekend. I thought about the PIT stainless dogs but ordering the right length seems like it might be a little problematic. Bob Custers "Top Dog" looks like a good solution, plus I could nightlatch them pretty easy.
.

Guys I have found offset jaws make a difference in connecting dog and pan notch...it is easier. Always wondered about the difference in poundage to of let off...probably not much ...but curious.

We-Sa,

Try to line up a big shop vise to close the eyes on those Bob Custer "Top Dogs"....I know they say not to bind the dog eye, but mine are pretty tight.....I don't want back and forth movement at all, when that pan engagement lets loose you need minimum creep and a crisp break.

Some people compare it to a fine gun trigger.... Pan tension weight is a personal choice, and lots of theories out there around that subject, but in all scenarios you really want that crisp break.

Of course you can overdo the doge eye tightness, but with good springs you can cheat a little to the tight side, IMO.



Mike,

Offsets do seem to set easier with less resistance on the dog jaw......I would bet the farm this resistance results in more added pan tension on closed jaw traps.

Like you say, probably not enough to matter, especially with the smaller less powerful traps, IMO.....Good line of thought in your observation!

I used some last year and I really like them as well! They hold up very well!

ky,
Good advice, especially since I've ordered 2 dozen of the "Top Dogs" already, If my old Craftsman 6 inch won't do it I've got a post vise that I'm pretty sure will crimp those dogs on.

I've thought about the pan "breaking" the same way, a crisp clean break with minimal pan motion makes good sense, like a well tuned match trigger. Maybe just my thinking, but it seems like a "mushy" pan would give a critter just enough time to move, giving you something other than the "optimal full pad catch".

Mike, ky,
I'm guessing (heavy on the guessing part) that most, if not all, traps are initially designed as closed jaw and the jaws are the only thing modified to make them offset. With that in mind, I would think the trap geometry would give the exact result you guys are talking about, less resistance perceived on the dog/captured jaw. Our law/regs/policy requires offset jaws on "double spring" traps so aside from a couple of No 1 and No 1 1/2 long spring traps I've never messed with anything other than offset traps.

Author,
That's a classy pic, exactly what I try for with every set. Critters being critters though it doesn't always happen, but I try and do my part.

Anyone else think the offset is too wide? I made some "#2Ns from double longs by using sleepy Creek offset Jaws in them, but hate the wide offset. I ground them down enough to make a narrow offset.

I had some. 4 coiled them. Put on PIT pans.

Wasn't a big fan.

Sold them.

I used to run about 10 dozen of the SC 1.75s. All mine were regular jawed. Factory dogs were too thin. I stocked up with a supply of new dogs and replaced them as needed....otherwise just tapped em back flat.

I re-tooled to Bridger 2 dogless about 4 years ago and have never regretted it.

I've bought some spare dogs thinking I'll have to do the same.

I really like those Bridger #2 dogless and plan on setting those where there's a better chance of a cat and using the SC's everywhere else.

I got rid of my SC coils some time back. Hope the new models are a little better.
Jim