Eveneing all,

So my father in-law is going on a bear hunt. He has two bear mounted already and said he doesn't want this years bear. He told me I could have it. I have never fleshed or dried a bear hide. I'm hoping someone can give me some tips on putting a hide that large up. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,
Greg

I have never fleshed a bear but have seen them put up. The ones I have seen is taxidemists
build a frame and cover with plywood and tack the hide to it. They then heavily salt the hide, then hang so the hide can drain off. Not much help maybe Boco will chime in I know he has done a few.

In my,opinion, a frame isn’t necessary for salting a bear. A lot of extra work. Hides can be salted laying flat on the ground.

Be sure to flesh it well. A beam and large draw knife work best.

Do I need to air dry like most hides or just flesh, salt then tan?

I have finished lots of bearhides.You can dry it like any other hide,or salt it in preparation for tanning yourself(without drying),or you can salt dry it to send to tanner.
The best way to handle a bear in my experience is to just flesh stretch and dry it.No matter which way you handle it you will have to skin out the feet,the ears,the nose and split the lips,unless you just want a robe.Check your regulations,some jurisdictions require bearhides to be complete.FHA in Ontario cannot accept incomplete hides for sale for example.

It is the same as doing a very large heavy coonhide.Fall bears are very fat but scrape easy.BUT-be careful not to damage the hair roots-they grow right thru the hide on fall bears.

Your best hides are early spring hides,second best are very late fall hides.

Air drying is faster, but humidity can cause the feet and head areas to spoil first. I'd put some borax in those areas and keep a close eye on them. Salting is safer, but takes more time to dry hide ( maybe impossible in high humidity, rainy weather). The hide won't spoil salted and wet. Generally it needs to be dried to ship to a tannery. If you salt and dry, I place the hide on an angled piece of plywood so moisture can run off and speed the drying process.

The real work is what boco mentioned, it is the skinning of the feet and face for taxidermy purposes. Put plenty of salt in all the nooks and crannies, On a rug pads can be removed. On a life size or shoulder mount pads should be left attached at one side and the gristle removed from the pads.

I've fleshed plenty in the field with just a knife. Takes more time, but I have time. Generally, I skin them pretty clean to begin with. However, I know what I'm doing.

Additional question. . .

When skinning out the paws for a rug where do you make the cut to leave the claws on the hide? I have heard different opinions (at least the way I understood it explained). I cut all the furbearers I do at "A" but have heard some say bears are supposed to be cut at "B."

A

Thanks!