This is the first year i have waxed traps, and ran into a big issue of hair trigger pans. I had them around 3-4 lbs before I waxed and didnt figure after removing wax from the contact points it would drop that much. So, is there a rule of thumb if you want around 4lb tension after, what it should be before or just adjust after?

Too many variables to give you a straight answer. Here's a suggestion: Take all your traps and set them (at home), then take one of those little disposable propane burners you get at Lowes/Home Depot, and just hit the trigger/dog/pan connection area for a few seconds with the blue flame. It will melt all the wax away and you'll be back pretty close to where you were before you waxed.

I just scratch wax off the latch and dog with my pocket knife prior to setting. Always worked fine for me.

This

I burn it off like Lazarus. It only takes a second, I bet less time than scraping.

The issue is i file it all off and still is wayyyy under a non waxed, i think with wax on the jaw hinges and pan hinge are affecting it.

If you clean the dog and trigger out very good so that rusts up a tad prior to season, why would the pen tension change that much if at all? I just move the pan up and down a few times to free the wax. If this is an issue or concern for you and you are unsure why not set the pan tension after you wax them?

Bryce

I scrape wax at the set, the whole purpose of dying and waxing is to do what we can to prevent rust. Thanks though

I don't know if this is worth mentioning but I'm a firm believer in ensuring that each trigger whether it's the male/female type trigger of my Jakes or the tigger-on-jaws of my Harris's the wax is "removal" is the same. I use to burn the wax off but the last 6-7 yesrs I've been using a Dremel cup brush. I don't see where this brushing completely removes the wax as burning does but figuring it leaves the thinnest of wax on the mating parts. That's OK for me and since I do every one the same, I can get and maintain a consistent pan tension while ensuring it remains without rusting.

I keep a cheap knife in my trap box to drag across the groove in my MJ dog plates.

I’ve done it both ways, removed wax from the night latch and the end of the dog with a knife and with a small propane torch.

I don’t understand why your pan tension is dropping after you remove wax. That doesn’t make sense.

Are your dogs straight or bent down near the pan?
Stepdown type dogs can be odd

I noticed a similar issue when waxing traps this year. I adjusted the pan tension to where I wanted it prior to waxing. After removing the traps from the wax and scraping the wax from the pan and dog the pan tension was still well below where I set it before waxing. I just tightened the pan bolt back to the tension I wanted. I believe the added lubrication from the wax where the pan bolts to the base plate reduced the pan tension. I suppose there is a chance that after catching a couple critters in those traps the wax may wear in that connection and slightly increase the pan tension again. I may have to occasionally monitor that.

That is one reason I lye dye and wax long enough before the season so that when I scrape the wax off the dog and the pan notch those areas lose the wax film and I want those areas to rust a bit. When you scrape the wax from those areas while setting you will have a slight wax film in those areas and those traps will fire easier then they did prior to waxing.

Bryce

I have use the old Bridger #3 fully modified traps for 20 plus years. Before dying and waxing I back the pan adjustment bolt way off to where the pan is very lose. This allows the and inner area of the pan post, pan bolt and pan surfaces to be dyed and eliminate any bare surfaces to rust. I then dye all my traps.
Next I wax my traps and let them cool. Then I snug the pan bolts which squeezes any excess wax out of the pan post area.
Next I use a "Lyman digital trigger scale" to set the tension on the first few traps to get my feeling as to the proper tension. It goes pretty fast once I get the proper feel. I always use my thumb on the very outer edge of the pan and try to be at about 4 pounds for coyote and bobcat. I use a dull knife to lightly scrape the pan notch and top of the dogs small contact area of excess wax.
If I do a remake with the trap after a catch it will still have wax in the pan contact areas even though the rest of the trap is shiny. I will check the pan tension at a remake also.
By this procedure your pan and post cannot rust together and increase your perceived pan tension. I hated checking traps that coyote and cats have danced on without goin off !