Ok fellas,this may have been gone over on here before but I couldn't find much on it.i have used just about all the trap staking methods there is and am considering going back to rebar because I want something more reusable that I don't need a puller for.back when I used rebar 9 times out of 10 I could twist and pull up on them with a pair of pliers and get them out fairly easy but I hated driving them and having to do it twice per set.so that got me thinking about maybe a stake that would screw in and out without pounding.so what I am thinking about is cross staking with 1/2" lag bolts with the same butterfly swivels I used for rebar.longest 1/2" lag bolts I can get are 18" long.do yall think those would be long enough if cross staked to handle coyotes?I was thinking it would save time and hammering.i already carry a cordless drill for my dirt hole auger so wouldn't be any more equipment to carry.just haveto switch from auger to 3/4 socket and run em in then when I get ready to pull traps just back em out.what do yall think?

Here is what I'm looking at

All my coyote traps that get anchored are on short chains by the way.around 16 inches

Those would work.

They will work in certain kinds of ground. Without threads all the way up the shank, I think they will just strip the threads they make in the ground though. I've got some made for log homes that are a smaller shank and head, that work good in frozen ground. The guy that used to work for me built some that worked really well, but using an impact to put them in and take out was hard on the driver nut on the stake. It would twist off sometimes in frozen ground! They need to be a one piece, investment cast piece, but that prices them right out of business!

Ok thanks beav.since the 18"ers should work what about 16"ers? I found some 16"ers for quite a bit cheaper or am I going the wrong way with this? Kinda pricey up front but they should last a long time

With cross staking you should be able to get away with 16" threaded stakes. But the type of ground will determine If they will hold. Go out and screw some In and try to pull them.

Yea Lee I was wondering about the threds.the heads should last a while because they are 3/4".i probably won't be using them in any real hard ground.if it's to hard I use a drag

I will beav.just thought I would talk at you fellas some about the idea before I went out and bought any

Be nice if they made some threaded all the way to the head with no shoulder but I haven't found any yet.

If the head wears out, you could cut the head off and weld on a nut.

Thats a good idea

I don't think the threads are deep enough to get enough "bite" in the ground. If they get pulled up half an inch, any thread they cut going in will be smooth and it will pull out just like rebar. Maybe I'm wrong.

I've thought about a helical anchor like this before: https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=helical+anchor

The threads will get as much bite as rebar and he isn't looking for more holding power. He just doesn't like swinging a hammer and driving stakes. I would think 16" crossed staked would work depending on soil. It depends on soil and moisture. What works this year may not another year. You have to drive you stake and test it. If you can pull it easy, don't trust it. If you throw your back out trying to pull it, it should be good. Everyone has different staking conditions and it can very by the week. I like rebar. But I swung a hammer a fair amount.

I'd bet a rebar stake with a nut top would "screw" into the ground as well. Maybe not but those screws are EXPENSIVE!

I think it’s no different than rebar.

I got to thinking about it and I'm gonna bring some to work and finish threading the shoulder all the way to the head.

If they screw in good and hold man it's gonna be a time and effort saver.il keep yall updated

They don't cost as much as a good drag and chain

If you forge a tip like these have it would. I made these for a guy in TX to run ram snares off of. I have made 100's of stakes in the forge.