So before I start , Disclaimer : I AM NOT AN EXPERT ON THIS. I don't run hundreds of conis , I don't have decades of experience so on and so on.I've had a few people inbox me since my post yesterday asking how I made my stands so figured I'd make this little pictorial to show how I'm building these. And and also show the calculations I'm using . Hopefully this can help somone out . My 330's are a little weird so my exact measurements may not work on all brands so just take the measurements on your trap and do the quick calculations that I'm gonna show and you'll get a good fit for yours. Also some of my measurements look off in the pictures but it's hard to take a good pic with one hand and hold the tape on the other. The calculations with give you extremely close measurements but they don't have to be perfect. A little bending will make these fit even if they have some slop

Ok first off material. I'm using 1/4' hot roll round stock. I got it in 20' sticks at my local metal supply for a little over $5 a stick. How ever if your making tall stands or stands that are gonna take ALOT of abuse 5/16" rod is supposed to be much better.
So first thing is figure out how tall you want your stands I'm making mine around 20" tall for shallow water. To that add and extra 3 1/2" (3.5") for your bends. You gonna come down from the top of your rod make a mark at 1 3/4" and from that mark come down another 1 3/4" and make another mark.




Ok now clamp your rod in a vice at the first mark and just use a hammer to beat it into a 90 degree angle like so



Ok now clamp you rod at the second mark and again just use your hammer to do your second bend




Ok now that's, basically what you want ,you might have to do some slight bending to get it nice and square though but your going to need two if these per stand

Ok next we need to measure to figure how wide our bottom bar is gonna be. Now this is gonna be a little different depending on how you want you stand to work . Some like the support close to the inner Rivets with the stand bends pointing outwards. This generally gives you more space inside of the trap.
Here's an example ( thanks to ADC for the pics )


Ok for that type of stand you need to measure from the inside rive on one end to the other like so

Now if your gonna do that style you need to add the length from the two inner Rivets with the 3.5" you took to make your bends. That will give you 11.5" for your bottom bar.

However if your making them like I am where the bends are pointing inwards you need to either measure from the two outside rivets or in my case the two outside sides of the springs( my 330s don't have enough room to get next to the rivets so I have to stabilize off the springs) This type of stand does take up room inside of the trap though

( Just showing what I mean by pointing inwards)





Now if your doing this style you need to subtract the 3.5 for your bends. So for me it's 10.5" - 3.5" equals a bottom bar of 7"long ( I know my picture looks mis measured it's hard to take a good pic and hold the tape )

Ok so now for your V bar. This is really just here to allow the trap to properly go off with your trigger set up side down. Honestly I'm not sure how to calculate the extra metal length you need so I just add 3/4" to 1" to the length of my bottom bar so in this case is gonna be 7 3/4". Then I mark the middle and bend. Honestly it would be better to just bend a V and keep cutting it till it fits properly and take the measurement but this work too if you don't wanna do all of that.


When it's bent properly you should be able to measure from tip to tip and it should measure the same as you bottom bar.
Now I just take one of the support arm set it how it would be on the trap and make a mark where you feel the V would be good. Honestly I could have brought this one up alot more but you should get the point



Now ,when you get your v set, take your bottom bar and set it under your V ,remember in hard bottom your not going to be able to push past this so it can basically set your height.


Make your marks and be sure to write down your measurements for later use. Measure from your bend down . If you measure from the bottom of the stand up towards you bend your gonna have a different placement for every different length stand you make and it will get irritating. Measuring from the bend down will be a constant.


Ok now that all that is done use a square magnet or what have you to tack your bottom bar to your support arm first. It's harder to square your V then it is for a straight bar




Then just add your V and weld



And done


Again I'm no expert trapper or fabrication dude but hopes this helps somone out

Looks good wolfdog! Now you need to make some tall ones. Cuz they are awesome!! I first bought some last year and need to get some more. I think you got a jackpot at 5$ a stick! Not sure but that sounds like a steal!

thank you very much

I think imma build some 5' ones just to have lol

I think it needs to be archived?

Made this one for a prototype.Seems to work good.With the heavier rod it doesn’t seem to need the second bar on bottom.I found the 3/8” hollow rod at a surplus store and slid a heavy wire in top and tacked it-not sure why just seemed like a good idea.I’m gonna use 3/8”rebar next time.Do you always want the trigger on bottom or is that more for when some of the trap is out of water?

Round 2 I made the bend the spring eye sits on to wide so I welded in a corner piece.Rock solid and made so trap can sit upside down.Probably throw another cross bar in to make bullet proof.

Btw sorry I read though and I had a mis print in one of my calculations it's been fixed

I'm honestly not sure about the V bar deal. Eveyone reccomeded it and seemed better to just have it Incase I wanted to use my traps that way

If your trap Is completely under water no need to have the dog on the bottom.

I disagree with that.
I check deepwater beaver traps by feeling the top jaws with the ice spud.If your trigger is on the top you will sometimes fire a set trap.

I've heard triggers on the top will cause pelt damage on the backs of some critters as well. I never saw it but I don't finish my furs most of the time.

triggers on top will definitely cause fur damage thats easily seen on the fur side. this condition gets worse as the ice is going out and the beaver are moving on their spring dispersal. this isnt an issue when selling to the hatter market, as its mostly the guard hairs that are damaged by the trigger.

Truth

Interesting didn't know that

I will after a week or so

I do this also

Exactly