Howdy,

I am in a spot where I need to use a less aggressive style of snare than I normally run. My normal snares are 1/16th 1x19 senneker cams with kill springs and triggers. I was thinking about going with either slim locks or micro locks and going up to 5/64 cable. I am going up in cable just because of the chance of a live coyote on a 3 day check. Any body have any experience running these for coyotes. Seems like I heard tell of people not using 1x19 with these locks and saying 7x7 made them close quicker or am I just mis remembering like normal?

Thanks guys

If the snare wont kil it it will most likely chew out in 3 days.
I would go with bigger cable-3 32.The lock itself has little to do with whether a snare is lethal or not.

So are you wanting the animals alive? Or are you looking for a stronger/tougher dispatch snare system? Sorry to answer you with more questions!!

If you are using 1x19 5\64's cable just load your snares. That is the same cable I use and I load my snares and they close all by themselves. If you check every 3 days you are going to have green belly critters if they are dead. If they are not dead your animals will be very poor quality fur. They won't just lay down and wait for you to get there. This is just my opinion. I have caught coyotes in sub zero weather and if I am not there in less than 36 hrs I run into green bellies.

I run slim loc's with 3/32 1/19 cable. I prefer the 1/19 keeps a nicer loop and less likely to have a chew out on 1/19 vs 7x7 especially on extended checks.

Couple things, if you are trying to be less lethal because you are close to domestics or town, don’t snare there! That and three day checks and snaring comes with complications that others have already addressed. Either way seems like a hard pass, unless there are reasons that you have not shared with us yet. Poor strategies utilizing snares have led to many states altering or outlawing snaring.

Thanks for all the input guys, maybe I will try a few of each and see how they do. TC I definitely agree with ya and avoid people (both on trap lines and everyday living) and pets at all costs but people are showing up in random places were I haven’t ever seen people before, i

Thanks again!

I have used 1/19 5/64 cable with 3/32 micro locks on my 6ft coyote snares with a 6ft extension and tied high with great success. Usually DOA with little site distrubance.

What happened in New Mexico is a direct result of a pet being killed in a snare . We have more to worry about than loosing our snares !

I'd like to help but I can't figure out what you are hoping to accomplish.

There are two styles of snares essentially, snares designed to kill whatever they catch ASAP, and snares aka cable restraints that are designed to hold the animals alive until the trapper gets there to release or dispatch it. Both designs rely on the placement of the snare ie. entanglement or not, and snare length as well as anchoring.

That's a good way to explain it..... Setting to accomplish both will most likely get chewouts. I'm better off either setting to hold them......or kill them

You can learn more about how to set up a trap in order to kill the animal as soon as possible. what is needed for this?

There are 2 schools of thought on this and both work well. You can use a snare set to entangle the critter thus closing the snare tightly for dispatch,,, or you can use a really long snare (10-12'+) with a solid anchor so when the animal (typically fox or coyote) make a long run to the end of the snare, that impact locks the snare tightly for dispatch. Both styles of setting the snares requires a good positive lock for the cable, such as a cam-lock. A kill spring on the snare is definitely an advantage as well. You want to be sure you are using a fast closing snare with the proper loop size and height for the animals you are targeting so they will be caught on the neck and as close to the head as possible. I'm not sure what you have available in Russia for building the snares out of and I don't know if you can order from trap suppliers in other countries so I hope what I've said will be of some help to you.

There is one other option that may be a good choice for you, that is power snare. These are powered closed by big bodygripper springs. They kill your catch very fast. Here s a link to that style...
Ram Power Snares

Let me know if I can be of more help.

thanks ADS. I'm interested in the question. how to assemble a beaver trap with these details
https://k-prom.ru/katalog/vsyo-dlya...hie-dlya-silkov/pruzhina-quick-kill.html
https://k-prom.ru/katalog/vsyo-dlya...shie-dlya-silkov/trigger-pjver-rill.html

As far as beaver I don't think kill springs and triggers are very useful ,at least I don't think I've ever seen anyone use them for beaver . Just about every beaver I've seen snared is alive unless its under ice on a snare pole . ADC , Aix and a few others have much more knowledge on the subject then me however. Here's a video from the guy who invented those. They are generally used for snaring animals like wolves ,coyotes and fox.



Here's a link that shows how to build a beaver snare

https://trapperman.com/forum/ubbthr...ng-a-beaver-snare-step-by-step-with-pics

Would also reccomended checking out Meat trapper on YouTube.he does alot of beaver snaring





Also here's a link about snaring beaver under the ice that might interest you

https://trapperman.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/2319353/3/under-ice-beaver-conibear

Thank you. maybe someone else has an idea

Kill springs can work on beaver if you are proficient at neck snaring beaver.

I nave snared just a few beaver. Lucky enough they were neck caught. The only reason I think they were caught by the neck is that my loops were small not much bigger than their head. Saying this I probably missed a few also.

Neck snaring is more a function of setting the snares at the right height. Lower snares results in shoulder/hip catches generally.

This is correct. Fast snares with aggressive locks help a lot too. We snare over 90% of our beaver around the neck but our snares are set where the beaver are walking at the very edge of the water, not out in the water. The few that aren't caught by the neck are generally kits. I have not used kill springs on them but some are dead if they get entangled or jump over a creek bank from a higher trail. We use an 8" loop set 4" off the ground as a rule of thumb, of course that varies some as situations change.