^^^^^^^
I've used your LDC the same way over the years and have had success doing that as well, Bob.

I’ve got a question for the guys that use a tarp or drop cloth, (mine is a light cotton canvas) how do you go about cleaning it ? Given enough time even if your careful, they are going to get dirty.

I just throw mine in a creek for a few days, fish it back out, hang it out, snap it a few times and re use.
I have a few of them. The drop cloths are great in muddy weather but ain’t worth a darn when dealing with skunks. I carry a back up just in case.

Golf, I just run my tarp through the washer with no detergent added.

Since the canvas is made of cotton, I hang it out to dry instead of throwing it in the dryer.

Here is a good example of hedging a set.

A spur trail intersects this road at a 45° angle. That is why the set is so far off the two-track..

It is a good location wind-wise for the trail but not the road.

A very small shot of urine was placed in the center of the road to hopefully stop any coyote passing by.

You can see where the adult coyote immediately checked up and milled around far enough off the road to get in trouble.

The lone arrow shows where secondary scent was applied. The line shows where the coyote stopped dead in his tracks and made a detour.



Having the luxury of sand to study sign can really help in understanding exactly what went on at the crime scene.

It is the best learning tool I have along with my Catahoula.

This coyote was the third adult female caught at this location and the fifth overall.

The majority of these catches were made on the windward side of the attractant even though the set was made on the upwind side of the road.

I’ve learned that if I’m not mixing in a few upwind trap sets on my line, I’m probably missing some of the tougher coyotes in the area.


Flat Set – MB Coyote Urine – Winter Wolf

In many cases, simply presenting a new look or smell is all that it takes to reel a coyote in.

Other times it’s better to show them something they would expect to see or smell at that time and place..

On this occasion, what was most familiar was also the most effective.


Adult Male – Flat Set – Female Coyote Gland – G-Dog Urine

Here is another example of a backdoor approach coyote.

This particular set had the attractant at the edge of the road. The trap was guarding the backside closer to the brush on the left.

This adult female was taken in the same manner and location as an adult male three days before.

Wind direction on both catch nights was blowing across the road from left to right.



The catch photo may provide a few clues as to why some coyotes might give up the wind and 180 a set.

It's also is a good example of why I avoid setting the center of the road.




Some of the younger females bring a solid game.

There's a good chance she would have defeated most traditional downwind sets.



Adult Female – Flat Set – Jameson’s Prairie King – G-Dog Urine

Really enjoy your post Tejas ! So that I’m understanding this right the coyote came in from down wind but circled 180 and committed from the upwind side? Do you see that a lot? If the set was in the middle of the 2 track how would that have changed things? By “guarding the backside” I’m guessing the trap was on the upwind side of the bait in front of the backing?

Thanks Shark!

Maybe you'll be able to put a few of these ideas to work on your line this season.


On the catch photo, it is uncertain if the initial approach was downwind on the road or just upwind on the faint trail to the left that parallels the road.

Yes, the trap was on the upwind side of the attractant.

Yes, this happens quite often. Check out a few posts above this one, and many others throughout the thread.

No, I don’t think this is a coincidence or a temporary wind switch with as much as it happens.

I believe it is a behavior. Whether it is instinctual or learned is anyone’s guess.

You might look back on the previous page and review what several other trappers said about setting different sections of a road.

Thanks for the reply Tejas! One thing that I wish I had was more sandy roads. Seeing the tracks like you can really would teach a trapper how coyotes work a set. I get to see some but in my area most of the ground is covered either with pine straw or heavy grass. Hope to one day get to trap down south. I deer hunt down that way often but have never trapped that terrain.

Folks that have a tough time driving and pulling earth anchors might want to give this a try if they haven’t already. This doesn’t apply to the trappers dealing with frozen ground.

If you trap in an area with hard ground skip the heavy hammer and go with a ship auger bit to predrill a pilot hole for your anchors. This will save you a lot of wear and tear on your shoulder as well as time on the line.

A ¾“ bit with a total length of 18” is pictured here. The auger length is 12”. Harbor Freight carries a three pack of 18” bits of different sizes for around twenty bucks.


Drilling and driving to a depth of 12” will give you a set depth of around 10” when anchor is engaged.


There's no need to strain your back pulling anchors when you can easily auger them out.



Stay as close to the chain as possible and you should have the trap pulled in about fifteen or twenty seconds. The auger pictured is a 1.5”.

Yep, exactly how I pull. I can pull a heck of a lot faster than I can put in, lol.

You put ice under those traps to keep them from melting?…

I usually go with one of those little drink umbrellas you would get if you ended up at the beach.

That set visual goes well with a matching sign that says “Free Deer & Beer”

Those old retirement coyotes just can’t resist the old D&B set.


Here is next week’s forecast Spot.


It doesn’t get hot until August....

Here's a little DIY for folks that might want to try a good alternative to pan covers or poly.

This is made to work with the MB 550, but you could make adjustments to fit whatever trap you use.

Get yourself a roll of ½” foam padding. I picked this up at Wal-Mart for around fifteen bucks.






Get a small tomato paste can to use as a cookie cutter.






Sharpen the edge of the can so it will make clean cuts.




Start at one corner of the foam sheet and work your way across.

Keeping the can centered in one spot, push down hard turning slightly left to right to make a clean cut.




The pad will be just a little smaller than the pan itself because the pit pan is cut off on one side.

The ½” thickness is perfect for the MB 550 and does not alter the pan tension.

The ¾” foam used with commercial pads will raise the tension around a pound.




A full sheet will turn out around three-hundred rounds

The thickness and size of the foam cutout is tailored to fit the MB 550.

For mild Southern climates, using a foam pad has a lot of advantages. They are quick and easy to load without need for adjustment before and after bedding. They don’t lend themselves to being shredded, and they’re rarely chewed on unlike other materials. Pack rats don’t even bother them. For the most part they are left alone and can be used over and over again and again at the same set. A pad can hold a bit of moisture, but that does not affect pan tension. That is of no real consequence when you don’t have to deal with freeze/thaw conditions.

That's a great idea TEJAS! Unfortunately with our freeze/thaw temps up here underalls don't seem to work as well for me. Cool idea though!

Good stuff Tejas...thank you.