Just wrapped up a coyote job using some new tools. Thought I'd give a review.

Wolf Creek #2 dogless regular jaw
Heat treated hex rod super stake driver
3" earth auger from hoosier trap
Flex 24V hammer drill

The traps passed muster. They are basic user traps a little rough around the edges but they do the job. The jaw faces are a little rough, not suitable for live market without some time at the bench grinder. They come with northwoods L style springs. I usually leave those alone as in the bridgers but these were cocked severely inward with the tips in contact holding the 90° clear. No amount of twisting could get the loose jaw flat so I clipped the springs. The dogless notch was interesting being a 45° angle and not cut square, yet they would still set and hold. Tells you the surface texture of the steel. This needed some file work. The pan has the montgomery stud and nut on the bottom. A metric nylock nut in this case. Some clip this as well but I found them to be easily adjusted to set and hold with the stud and nut intact. Matter of fact I prefer it as I can set these over my thigh and pressure from my thigh just clicks the pan into place.
I swapped out the factory chain for #3 twist and upgraded j-hooks. Eight links, a positrip 53lb swivel spring then 16 links and a superstake attached with cold shut. The j-hooks were left unwelded for possible swap out for chestnut ring or swapping out without pulling.
Two traps did have an impact with a golf cart, one slightly bent frame. Easily repaired in the field. Considering baseplate but these have a riveted cross with bigger rivets than northwoods or bridger. Thinking rod base to avoid grinding rivets as I like side swiveled over center. I want the foot to slide, once.
Pans were adjusted to 4lbs and all catches were high pad, no toes.

Driver is what MB should sell as their standard driver. If I stay with super stakes this will be my driver. Super stakes are still to much of a good thing but they held well only being driven about eight inches down.

Why has it taken me so long to get an auger? I won't be without ever again. Punches in dirt holes and beds if you do the deep center like in the pipedream set. I do a center hole 6-8 inches deep for the chain and spring and perch the trap on it's jaws and levers.
Today was pull day and the one day I hate the most in all things trapping. That is until I let the auger do the work. Trip trap with foot, push to the side and hold chain tight, angle auger to go down right beside chain being careful not to grab chain with auger. Dig down to depth of stake. If lucky it now pops out by hand if not just a light pull with the puller breaks it free. The super stakes still come up with a big plug of clay, moreso than wolf fangs.
Unfortunately this clay, rock and roots made short work of the edge it came with but even blunted digs well. May need to take a file to it.

Flex drill, time will tell but so far so good and well pleased. Splurged on this as my beater cheapo screwdriver ryobi was not up to the task of spinning three inches of auger. Not only not having the torque but not enough battery either. The big 5.0 battery still had a quarter charge left after a dozen sets in some of the roughest clay I dealt with recently. Including digging out, big hole, the stake driver and root that I had driven it through. The small battery got them all back out of the ground.

Thanks for the report. I as well have found a GOOD driver and auger to be my biggest time saver on the line! Used to use it only for drilling dirt holes or remove tough anchors and then one day it hit me.....why not drill the bed like you explained! Huge time saver for me as a majority of my sets are bedded like Zaggers pipe dream! Have also found quickly loosening hard soil to bed a trap the normal way by augering a few touching shallow holes to break it up and get some soft soil which also helps with bedding is quicker vs chipping a bed out with a hammer.

Actually I learned the deep hole from Hal Sullivan and used to dig it out by trowel.

The Dog on wolf creeks have metal welded on the back side of the jaw to make the lever go down further, making the loose jaw flat. I too don't like the loose jaw sticking up, I may cut the leg off of the springs of my dogless. Thanks for the reviews!

It amazing the difference in dirt in this State, heck even my county. Just swapped out for a 20v hammer drill and now anchors come out with a breeze even in red or white clay. Better hold tight though, that thing could snap a wrist.
My son traps the North part of the county and can use a small spade and a puller and get them up in under a minute. I call it “dream dirt”, lol. I have to keep tabs on him when he’s helping me, he wants to drive the anchors ALL the way down and it’s not necessary, plus it makes it deeper for me to have to drill to get them up!

I got good clay loam here, no rocks for least five foot down according to my field lines. It sets up hard and is tough to pull from.
A fellow beekeeper and farmer not two miles away has sand for his main garden with clay on other areas of his property.

The area I was in is Dunwoody just north of 285. I would call that soil clay cobble as it had rock up to the size of baseballs mixed in it. Not sure if natural or not as it was a golf course and obviously had dirt rearranged.