Hello everyone!!!!
Trapping season is right around the corner and this year I'm gonna try snaring! Exciting stuff!!! So I'm curious to see what other trappers are using for snares. Do you make your own and if so what supplies do you use? I'm gonna buy my 1st snares just to get used to using them but I figure that once I get used to them I wanna build my own (mainly for my own satisfaction). I've tried finding info on stuff like what cable sizes work for northern coyotes but I keep finding info on southern snaring and its my understanding that those critters are smaller than our coyotes. Also.. there's a lot of debate on what to do with the cables ( boiling in baking soda, speed dipping, painting... that kinds stuff) what seems to work best for you guys? Any and all information regarding snares is welcome and thanks in advance for your input!
Good luck out there!

Welcome aboard. Look under the “archives” for snaring…probably enough info there to keep you reading until trapping season starts.

Yes, welcome to T-man. Wanna Be is right, lots of good info in the archives. Don't over think it and you will eventually find out what works best for you. I use both snares I have purchased as well as my own. Just like traps, each one has it's place. Good luck!

I see the spring on one of those.... isn't that used for "loading" the snare so it helps force the snare shut when an animal moves it? I'm 100% green to snaring so I may be asking some very no brained questions lol. I figured I would look here on Tmann before I looked elsewhere due to the overwhelming amount of experience and information people can share. Do you prefer to use loaded snares? I also notice the cam type locks.. how well do those work verses the other lock shown? The xanling looks dull if not rust or brown colored.. do you treat your snares or use them all shiny and new? Thanks for the information guys! I will definitely have to look through the archives after work. I'm hoping to find specific info on our larger northern animals. I'm not sure if it makes too much of a difference from Texas to Minnesota or from California to Maine. If I can remember correctly I was listening to Clint Locklear's trapping radio podcast and the southern animals are smaller. I can't 100% remember but I believe that's what he said when he was talking about snaring and what he likes to use. He was trapping around Tennessee which is a ways away from Minnesota so maybe he would use smaller cabling?

Loading snares is normally referred to as the practice of adding memory to the cable so it closes much faster. The dispatch springs just add extra pressure on the snare when the animal stops pulling on the snare.

Welcome aboard! I'm no expert but I stalk enough of these guys I can at least regurgitate what they say half decently
Anyhow no ,what you seeing are kill springs, they don't do anything for loading really. Basically when the animal makes that fist good lunge it will compress that spring and that results in a constant pressure and will not allow for any give on the lock. Basically with one of those or a triggered version,once that snare closes on that critter is game over quick fast and in a hurry.
Now loading is putting memory into the cable of a snare so it wants to go back on its self and shut the snare. Basically the first 1/3rd of your snare loops total length gets this memory put into it. Usually it goes from looking straight to looking like a candy can or shepherd's hook.
Loading is pretty much universally thought of as a must or at least something that usually helps . I know some guys out west however don't like really fast loaded snares due to their sensitivity and wind.
Theres also alot of debate of do you really need a loaded snare if you using a heavy lock and light cable ect.

For larger size coyotes my snaring system is:

LETHAL COYOTE/WOLF SNARING: Quick Dispatch Tactics

1-Use a long 8-10 foot snare, in most treed situations with a 14-15 inch loop with bottom of loop set 14-15 inches off the ground in most trail set up situations. Actually, size of loop is less important than height off the walking surface, just fit the loop to the opening within reason. The proper bottom loop height above ground, re trail sets, for the animals in your area is very important to obtaining a humane high neck catch with large loops. In most of BC this is 14-15 inches

2-In wooded areas tie off high and SOLID in most situations to a tree or something that does not bend. A solid tie allows for solid locking and tying high keeps the snare and lock high up on the back of the neck by forming an angle of about 45 degree from the animal to the snare tie/anchor point. This will make the snare set up on the neck just behind the ears where the carotid arteries are most exposed, which is the desired kill zone for a snare. Also, if the coyote/wolf pulls backwards the snare will be over top of its head and it won’t be able to chew.

3-If unable to tie high and solid, use SHORTER snare, SMALLER loop and tie off low and SOLID still providing about a 45 degree cable catch angle if possible. If not possible to set solid and provide the 45 degree angle, ensure that you setup the snare so the lock closes up on back of the neck.
When TIED LOW A LONG snare, especially with a LARGE LOOP, will have a tendency to slide, like a dog harness, to the less desirable shoulder area of the coyote rather than the high neck desired quick dispatch location.

4-Use a good lock that does not back off – cam loc with teeth, Amberg or micro lock.

5-Use a dispatch spring with each lock – Senneker stinger kill spring or 50# compression spring. A dispatch spring greatly increases the effectiveness of any lock.

6-When using Sennecker system avoid any entanglement, if at all possible, as
entanglement can often interfere with the proper function of the kill spring.

7-LOAD all snares – provides for very quick closure with slight touch to bottom of the snare loop providing for a high neck catch in most instances and a loaded (round loop) jumps over the hump when set at the 11 or 1 o’clock position quicker, with a light touch to the bottom of the loop, then a tear drop loop.

You know you have a good snaring system when the vast majority of your catch:
- is down and dead, with little or no entanglement, at the end of your snare.
- the area disturbance is minimal allowing the location to be reused.
- the animal shows very little, if any, head edema.
If otherwise then you should reassess your snaring equipment and technique.


Cable type and size (3/32, 5/64 or 1/16) is a matter of personal preference, both 7X7 and 1/19 cable work fine. I simply prefer the 5/64 1/19 cable because I find it easier to work with as it loads well, fires fast and holds a greater large round loop better than 7X7. It is also more chew resistant than 7X7 cable, although this is of little concern when using a good lock with kill spring and proper setting for the site conditions. The smaller cable generally tightens down thru thick fur quicker than larger cable. With 5/64 cable I use 3/32 micro locks on my coyote snares.


The key to getting a good high neck catch with a large loop is to use a well loaded snare, and set it high, with the bottom of the loop 14-15 inches above the ground or snow level for coyotes and 18-20 inches for wolves, so they hit the snare just under the jaw. Some may walk under the snare, but coyotes and wolves do not always travel with their heads down; they often travel with their heads up. If one goes under the snare, on the next trip it will come through with its head up, or another coyote will come through with its head up.

We often see pictures of snared coyotes on the internet with significant catch circles, chewed up brush/trees, bloody water heads, etc. These situations indicate less than desirable catches which can be basically eliminated, in most instances, by using a dispatch spring with any good lock on coyote snares.

The feature of the Amberg lock that makes it very effective is that it is a single point that digs into the cable.

My preferred and most efficient coyote/wolf snare:
--6 ft of 1X19 5/64 cable with end swivel for attaching +/- 6 ft extension to it.
--using a 3/32 micro lock on 5/64 loaded cable.
--50 lb compression spring
--double 3/32 ferrule for a whammy

The reason for using a 3/32 micro lock on 5/64 cable is the tighter the bite (angle) the tighter the pinch. Another thing to maybe consider is that a slightly larger lock size than cable size will close faster due to less friction than with a matched cable to lock size.

Be sure to read your MN regs on snaring (page 59). Loops can be no bigger than 10" and the top of the snare can not be any higher than 20".

^^^^^^^^^^^^ you have a major problem right there re large coyote snaring!

Not too hard to overcome though. Just need to pick spots that naturally or with slight modification force to animals to duck a bit

When hanging snares I try to find tight necked down areas where they are moving, in the brush or grass. I think they move through the areas head down or straight out in front. I don't think the top of my snares have ever been 20" off the ground.

I usually use an 8" loop and about 16" to the top of my snares and usually set in brushy areas as open grass areas just don't seem to work too go for me.

Learn how to make your own snares. You'll be better for it,"
Start with better cable, Most cable sold in the U.S. is junk !
IMO, get away from boiling snares, unless you intend to use them that season.
Boiling removes the oil from the inside, causing it to rust from the inside out.
You usually won't see this until the second season, if you keep the unused ones over.
This usually happens at the bends and can cost you animals.

* I use 1X19 5/64th Korean Select cable on my coyote snares with a #900 lb (mid) barrel swivel in the middle. and a trap (double) swivel on the end, if I stake them.
Wolf Fangs, using 1/8th cable , double ferrules on both ends on the cable stakes.
Locks : Slim, Cam and Gregerson L-4's are my go to.


Any questions, you can always call me direct and I will be happy to help you.

Wow. Lots of good information. Thank you to everyone that answered! I've been hearing a lot of good things about the 1/19 cable. Does anyone have any opinion on the kill springs. I have some snares that I bought with those and I'm wondering if anyone has any input on coyotes shying away from snares because they see that. Also I'm also wondering about what to use to help the snare blend in better.. i.e. painting vs dyeing. Does the paint slow the snare down any? And the last question I have for now is on stabilizing the snare. I know that the snare needs to be pretty solidly stabilized so it doesn't move around too much and that it helps with "enguaging" the lock better. I'm not gonna carry around a bunch of rebar pole... just not practice on foot which is the only way I can move around the property via the landowners request. What do you guys find is the best snare supports and why do you think so? Like do you use sticks, rebar, trapping wire, wooden steaks... etc... Pictures would be immensely appreciated if you can. Thanks again to everyone that's put in your thoughts and experience to help me understand snaring better.

Many trappers worry about coyotes seeing the lock and spring but IMO they are up above a coyotes’ line of sight and a from the coyote point of view appear to be just another bit of junk hanging in the bushes. Blending in is a matter of coloration of the snare to the background color of the bush as seen from the animal’s perspective. Blocking or fencing is a no/no unless very subtle like blade of grass or a small twig or branch that appears to have fallen in place.

I find a quick 5 minutes or less boil with baking soda will remove excessive lubricant and shine, then a quick boil and soak in a light logwood crystal solution will provide a good twig/bark colouring look as in this picture, with the lower snare being the soda treatment versus the logwood soak. You could probably substitute walnut hulls or tree bark, etc for the colouring agent. Snares treated in this way are scent free, work just like untreated snares and generally blend in very well to the background bush, from the coyote’s point of view.