After a few other post dealing with drags I end up going though my "ready box" just to look at something.
You know many believe a drag is a drag is a drag but this is false imo. Have a lot of different type and make a lot of different type..each one does something different and is for a different purpose. Sharpen a prong this way instead of that way , a bend here instead of there make this one then that, will all give different results. Some wanted by some some scorned by others
Could probably write a few paragraphs on each but due to lack of in the field experience personally I'll digress.
So, what's eveyones preferred and why ?

Wolfie, since you asked..... I make and sell my own drags as well. Doubt we'll ever be in competition since shipping big hunks of pointy steel around the country is cost prohibitive.

Calling mine "drags" is a bit of a misnomer since they're purpose built to be more of a portable anchor - for wolves. I spent a while prototyping them and settled on the black ones. They're 8lbs each and NOT designed to leave the site in the typical sense of a drag. I use them a lot for making a set where I want to without needing to mess with cabling off to a tree or earth anchoring in marginal soil. They've worked great for me and folks who have been running them. The only time they've left the set is on a hard packed dirt road but left a huge gouge and were tetherballed when they left the road.

Here's a batch headed off to a customer, a couple prototypes (way overkill), an MB drag and 750 and Duke 1.5 for comparison.

If you follow the chain back you’ll see a big rock. That is my preferred drag. Heavy, free, and already at the set so I don’t have extra weight to carry.

Jumper's drags are the cats meow if you don't have to pack them. I've used logs more than anything for drags. But have went to making a bunch of my own for ease of use and not having to look for a log and cut it. I don't have pictures of mine, but similar to an MB drag except each side is made out of one piece of 5/8 rebar with bent corners rather than separate pieces welded together. And they are about twice as big with an extra chunk of 5/8"s welded across the top for extra weight. Not as heavy as Jumper's but almost as big and not that much lighter. I can bury them under the trap or close to it if I don't have a convenient place in the brush to hide it. Or I can just toss it in the brush or snow, bed the trap and cover the chain. I like the points angled out because the catch better than those angled in. I think those angled in will hold better when they catch, but usually they wrap the chain around something as soon as they hang up anyways. And I've had a wolf drive a point so far into a log that I've had to pound the drag back out, couldn't get it out by hand.

I have several different style of drags I use. MB’s with additional 60D nail on point, Tracker drags from JC Conner and the ones on the far left of OP’s post. All hang up pretty quickly with 8ft. of chain. I have a pile of the old original cheap coyote size drags you see in the catalogs. Something I’d use on mink traps. But, what kind of drag do you think they’d make with and 18” piece of 1/2 inch rebar laid on top, heavy nails added to the points and then a D ring welded on the terminal end? I’m thinking in a lot of my places they’d work good. Lots of old grown up strip mine type areas. Also, have a dog that rides along that’s pretty good at going straight to them.
Also curious, I have a good friend that caught a lot of animals in his almost 90 years, suggested 1/8 cable. He’s had good luck using it. It would be quite a lighter load in back of UTV with cables instead of chains.

Anyone use a cable 'bow tie'?
Fix around rock, pull to tighten...

Now that Hern that is a sweet idea and invention. Did you develop that?

Do the loops ever relax once placed or are you depending on the applied resistance to keep the loops taut. I could see where multiple loops would provide the better grip and insurance to hold fast. What are the nut sizes you found best to use?

These weigh 3.5lb and work really well in multiple situations. Brush areas or tall over grown grass edges they don’t get far at all. Rocky or hard pack dirt road or ground in general they leave a very noticeable gouged in trail to track. I don’t pre wrap drags seems like a waste of a drag and is defeating the purpose of a drag.

I Don’t use drags much, but when I do, these are the type and it works well for me.

Hammer is there an advantage to a wedge type digging spike vs a plain pointed round bar spike?

Shark, in my experience yes there is a big difference. The wedging action you get from the triangle drag is designed for just that the smallest sapling’s will get wedged between point and frame of trap. Where using a rounded spike style drag if that point isn’t dug into the ground when it hangs up on a sapling the open trap frame can ride up and bend over the sapling and animals goes a little further. But it’s Chevy or ford between the two styles both work very very well if the user is using it responsibly. If I was in strippings and nothing in site and ground was rock solid the drill would come out idc how much someone said to me oh my drag will dig in and hold assuming and trapping never work well together.

How do they do with lots of ground duff like pine needles and leaves?

OK. I think this is a great thread. Went out to the shop and took a picture of one of my new drags I made. Swivel isn't welded on it yet but otherwise ready to go. I will probably dye them after I boil traps though. 16" shank and with 8' of #5 chain it weighs 8.2 pounds.

First dozen I made I welded quick links to the base so I could just attach them to the chain at the site. This worked good on the traps I had that already had long chains on them, but I had to carry a bunch of lengths of chain to attach them to my other traps (I will continue to carry some lengths of chain for when I want a double length chain in open ground or a little extra chain to attach a trap to a tree or log) and I had the threads strip on a couple of the quick links after continued usage so I ended up welding those ones shut anyways. Also I didn't like the attachment being on one side of the shank instead of straight off the end, although it probably makes no difference.

A piece of advice, always use a wrench or pliers to tighten quick links (probably how I stripped out the threads on a couple) while I've never had a coyote spin one loose, I had a double on wolves one day when I had just finger tightened them and after dispatching them I discovered BOTH of them had managed to unscrew the quick links partway, one far enough I was able to pull the chain out without turning the nut any farther.

This is one of the drags with approximately 11-12' of chain on it that I had a wolf take over 400 yards this winter, trapping Taximan's country pictured I would always stake or use a heavy weight with the drag strictly as a backup. Likely with an extra length of chain attached if I didn't think the stake would hold.

Would you mind sharing the dimensions of your drags...and material thickness? I plan on using half inch thick material.

I would love the opportunity to trap wolves and big cats ! Bearcat2 what is the weight range of the wolves you have trapped ?

70-110. I've heard of bigger, but most don't ever see a set of scales. First and still the biggest I've caught weighed 110. I'm estimating on the 70. I've never weighed another because I've never caught one bigger than my first.

Sounds about right. Mine was 93lbs and people's guesses were all over the place when they saw pics of it. Jumper makes boat anchors. I think I can carry one at a time on my little wheeler

What is the average = lbs drag a guy from Idaho uses for wolf? IF you had say = 2o ft of chain. Is a Saber Tooth drag at about 3 lbs enough?? What should be used ?

Heavier the better. Jumper makes his in the 8-8.5lb range. Those on ten feet of number 7 chain don't make it far. In the thick stuff a sabertooth would hook up regardless of weight in the brush. Lots of guys using the MB750s from MTP with their drag, and it's only 3.5lbs or so.