My first thought was a full header but then I thought ah a 2x6 header will work. But after my last post quite a few folks suggested it needed a large header, which just affirmed that my first thought was the correct way and not to cheap out.

It’s fine, good job.
Just so you know you were right. A double 2x6 is acceptable up to a 4’ span.

Osky

Figured it would probably have sufficed, but the way I am discovering that this house was built extra wood and nails is probably a good thing. LOL

Good job Chuckles.

I just noticed something else that is wrong in that original framing.

If you look at the top plate near the right side of the window.....you see an unsupported joint in that top plate. You can tell right where it is because the cripple under the sill is in line with that joint. Obviously that cripple is "on layout".

Nevertheless....no building inspector would have ever passed that joint in the top plate......even if it was supported.

If I remember the IRC correctly, IF a plate breaks over an opening , the joint must be at least 16" onto a solid header. Otherwise that joint is not allowed within 4 feet of any opening OR an intersecting wall.

Who built that thing.

That is still "illegal" as you have it, but no one is going to notice once it's closed up. I'm sure you have all the required permits.....right ? I sure hope the inspector doesn't monitor this site !

It almost appears as though there is a joint in the bottom plate at the same location. No way that would be allowed if it was inspected. Is this building a modular by any chance ?

If you save this to your desktop you can enlarge it to see that joint clearly. I can't seem to save an enlarged copy

The jack is what it needed to support the header.

Not sure on who built it but, it is believed to have been built by the high school building trades class in the mid to late 70s. And apparently the teacher didnt care and there must not have been an inspector around. I told my wife if we pulled enough walls and called the insurance we would get a new house. And I did notice the joint in the bottom plate but had not noticed it lined up with the joint in the top plate. Now to tackle the floor joists that are 2x8s on a 14 foot span and sagging.

"Yea buddy" that's lookin good.

you have certainly made it stronger. only so much a guy can do with what he has. should last a loooong time now.

In the pic with insulation.
Should the excess wire be looped below the box as in "drip loop"?

Not here by code. It must be strapped to the stud center within 6” of the box. Run flat along the stud and strapped at intervals. It may be different there.

Osky

Learned it from a tradesman. If water gets in there, a loop lower than,, makes the water drip away and not into the box, especially the main service.
I don't know sparky codes but that made good sense.

Looks like you did a good job the header size is also determined by if the wall is load bearing, with splice in the top plate where it is it doesn’t hurt to put that header in that you did.