So this heater has 2 thermostats. Why 2 and what's the proper setting?

I wonder if it might be a low limit.

The upper element operates first until the temperature setting is reached, Then power is transferred to the lower element which brings that area of the tank up to the proper temperature. Only one element is on at any given time. Factory settings are set low for liability reasons. Adjust each element to provide the max temp you are looking for but be careful if you set too high and have young children using a bath tub for example as scalding could be an issue.

Chris

120 is agood starting point. If it's in the garage and in winter time your hot water will cool really fast.. Not really a proper setting just make sure they are both on the same (if two adjustments). If you don't one will do most of the work and burn out faster.

Look at the new on demand heaters that run on natural gas .

there is a drop pipe that takes cold water to the bottom so that it pushes the hot water out the top

if the bottom gets cold the thermostat at the bottom kicks in the lower coil

as you take a shower and are using water faster than it can make new hot water

so the hot leaves the top of the tank and cold enters the bottom via drop tube , when the upper thermostat gets cold it kicks in the 2nd coil to try and keep up.

if you just wash your hands then only the bottom coil would need to come on to heat the tank back up

but if you take a shower or do a load of dishes where your hot water consumption is higher then the top will also kick in

so to use the least amount of eclectic possible and keep the hot water flowing as long as possible.


have you checked and replaced your Anode lately?

if you don't flush your tank twice a year to get the calcium out and replace your the Anode every few years , you run in to problems much sooner

also when your lower coil is covered in calcium your upper will still keep you in hot water a little longer , you will notice shorter showers but it happens slowly.

[quote=charles]Look at the new on demand heaters that run on natural gas

Or run on propane and never look back...

Its a 40 and there's definitely a problem. My guess it hasn't been touched since it was new. I'll try flushing it and if there's alot of gunk I'll replace the anode rod. Other than that it'll probly get replaced. I can't take a 5 minute shower without running out of warm water!

Sounds like you need to replace 1 or both of the heating elements, kill power drain, homedepot or lowes stock most along with the socket to remove and replace with.

I If you are running out of hot water with one shower, chances are your lower element is burned out. If you have a volt ohm meter , or access to one. Shut the power to the waterheater off. Remove the wires to the top and bottom elements at the elements. With the meter set on ohms , test for continuity across the element terminals. If you get a reading , the element is good. If there is no reading your element is burned out and needs replacement. There is another test to do , test from each terminal to ground. There should be no reading. There is a situation where the element is shorted to ground and partly working. This is very inefficient, probably caused by a shot of lightning. Have seen high hydro bills, caused by this. This element needs replaced. I spent years trouble shooting water heaters for a utility. Once you figure out how they work, they start to make sense old243

drain the tank, pull the bottom element see if its burnt, check for sediment, if sediment builds up from the bottom of the tank and reaches the bottom element, it burns out.

Sometimes the sediment is so thick the drain plug will not run out the bottom.
When that happens you have to use a stiff wire ( clothes hanger) and poke and jab inside to get it loose to flow.

You will know when it is free, just like the dutchman did when he moved his finger in the dyke hole.

I have often wondered about draining my tank and the running a gallon or two of water in......and then dump in a bottle of vinegar to try to dissolve some of that sediment. Any opinions or experience along those lines ?

This is exactly what happened to mine earlier this week. I think i will flush this new one out more often than every 11 years.

hook up a drain hose, drain it, leave drain open and start filling tank, if it drains freely,, let it run till the sediment quits coming out the drain hose, if it will not drain freely, use a couple blasts of high pressure air to unstop the drain hole, may take a few tries but the sediment will come out with water.

Those are simple to rebuild, I got a kit for mine that had both elements and both thermostats for under 75 dollars. Plus a wrench to take the elements out. Shut the power off and drain the tank takes about 30 minutes total. Counting a quick youtube video.

Thanks guys! It's worth a try.

Setting a water heater temperature to less than 140 degrees can cause the tank to grow bacteria! I allways set the tank to 150 degrees and install a thermal mixing valve and adjust it to deliver 125 degree water to the house to prevent scaulding.