So I have been using this driver for a little bit now but I really like it. Super tough. I love the red hose handle. It makes pulling the driver loose from the earth anchor a breeze.

I brought 3 WF drivers with to Oklahoma this year and they all lasted about a week and a half. Borrowed my buddies backup driver he got from Tom at Stalker Fabrications and that thing was beautiful. Came out of the ground every time and left the anchors in the ground each time. Got back home and called Tom and ordered 2.

I bet he also Bubble welds the Jaws as well instead of sending them out. I bet he also uses that welder on a lot of stuff. Not a week goes by I don't use mine. Heck you should hear my Hemi with the Exhaust I welded on it. Also the Rack to haul my John Boat as well as the Anchors I welded up for my John Boat. You should see the rack I welded up for my four Wheeler to hold the gear for both Hunting and Trapping. You should see the Tack Racks I welded out of old Horse shoes for our Horse Tack. Actually I think every one should have a welder and if need be Learn how to weld.

Never welded…….get by without it thus far.

Pre-drilling will GREATLY improve your drivers life. (Not to mention save a lot of wear and tear on YOU).

Fall/winter trapping I have yet to find a driver that would last me a month back before I pre-drilled my holes. Most run of the mill supply house drivers wouldn’t make a day.

Now I can get a solid 4-6 months out of (a good) one.

Took me a few years to finally start pre-drilling. I'm a little slow to change...but pre-drilling is THE way to go.

Pre-drilling sounds like a way to prematurely ruin a drill. Based on prices, I’m better off buying drivers.

What size and style of bit to predrill?

This one

Just pre drill the hole. 19.95 for a = 1 inch Wood Boring bit at = Harbor Freight. I drill thousands of holes a year. This bit is 3/4 inch now BUT 8 months old. Boy trappers are cheap!!!!LoL!

This 1

Figure $30 minimum for a good driver.

If I’m burning up a driver every month or two, that’s $180-$360 a year.

Can get a dewalt rotary hammer for around $225-250 (mines been going strong 7 years now and a LOT of sets).

Not to mention how much it’s saved my shoulder and back. So no chiropractor bills either!

In my country, the difference in pre-drilling and not is 15-25 whacks or 50+.

WB,
You sound like me...about 2 years ago.....lol

If you keep trapping...you'll come over to the "easier" side soon.

I bought the same bit that ST uses above....1" bit.

I should've went to this much sooner.

I can push the anchor in about halfway...only takes about 6 or 8 moderate hammer hits to put it down to 15".

Tried the bit he showed. About broke my wrist, lol. It will go in, but you have to put the drill in reverse to get it out. Is that the way it’s supposed to work?
And when that joker catches, it’s caught!

Yes. It has to go in reverse. We used it the otherday in a dry creek bed. Will drill threw small rock. Very small rock ? It often pushes to the side when drilling. Thats why ——- Wood boring bit. Not ——— masonry bit

Must be your drill. I'm not having that issue.

I was due for another drill as my 18v Dewalt batteries were worn out. So, I bought a Kobalt 24v hammer drill.

The "hammer" feature may be the trick. Plus, the Kobalt and most modern drills, have a torque adjustment that prevents that wrist jolt.

Using a 20v hammer drill.

I have a Stalker driver. Beat the crap out of it and still looks new.