(Sorry for the slow responce, had to go outside and get a crunch proof swivel and a pair of channel locks) That is not a "CRUNCH PROOF" swivel, it looks like a standard swivel to me, I am a full grown man and could not crush the swivel.

nelacres we are just discussing Simple Physics not hostility on my end.

My book does not cover Tin Foil will have to find the 3rd Edition to check that out

You just need either BIGGER pliers...or bigger cahonies... NOT my problem you cant "hold up" your end...

I will Wager My Degree in Physics that that is not a "CRUNCH PROOF SWIVEL". No need far any upgrade in Pliers or Cahonies both are sufficient to handle about any situation that is presented to me.

I figure if that swivel is welded to a drag then all the crunching a yote would do will not defeat the weld....

I would use the washer though and connect it with a quick connect link.

I'll wager my mail order MASTERS degree in physics against YOUR mail order degree.... TRUMPH

I will PM you with my Addy where you can mail the Degree to me. Always good to have an extra one laying around.

i planned on bending the ends, just took the pic and the drag was still hot so i waited til later to bend them.

DEFINETLY a workable drag!!

Lordy looks like your post received several informative additions and a little bit of entertainment at the same time. Another bit of info at the FTA Robert Waddell showed in his demo driving a 5/16 rod at about a 15 degree angle with the top pointing the direction he wanted the animal hang up in. The prong of the drag hooks on the rod and as he pulls and swings around the drag will pull free pointing him in the direction desired. Connors shows something similar in his flat set video. Drags will work well where staking solid is not reliable or you want the animal to hide out of sight, the down side sometimes finding your catch can be time comsuming.

Cletis the drags I make are off the pattern Robert uses. He gave me the measurements and the and the idea on the Swivels. I figure he has enough experience to know what will work and what will not work.

Blaine yes Robert diffently knows what he is doing. Are you making your drags with cotton spindles as prongs. And different designs ultimately achieve the same result, a animal tangled up in the brush or in some cases heavy soddy grass.
Different opinions often lead to building a better mouse trap.

Cletis

Yeah I make them with the Spindels the only difference in the ones I have made and Roberts is I use a spindle that is about 1 1/2" longer. I gave Robert some of the same spindles and he told me to make everything 1 1/2" longer also. They make a good drag, have not had them get very far yet.

I saw some they make that has a gear that tapers down for the spikes. what kind of gear are these and where would you get them. I saw one thats is drove in a post off of our barn, an old railroad timber.

cotten spindles have a gear at the base and taper to a point.

A cotton picker spindle is about the size of a Railroad spike. The head looks kinda like a sprocket. All them I have ever seen are shinny, not real sure of what kind of metal they are made of (may be Chrome Molly) I know it is some tough stuff.

thanks Blaine and Cletus I know where I can get some now, My paw-n-law lives in farm country where they grow a lot of cotton and I've seen some old cotton pickers around there, he probably has some. they are shinny but they can be brazed or welded.

Blaine you must type alot faster than me. LOL

Yeah you can weld them, I had a friend that worked on a farm that gave me a pile of them.

lol Cletis about the only thing I learned in high school was typing and PHYSICS

Ive tried and made so many different kinds it aint funny. These are the ones Ill make for myself from no on most likely..James that drag will work just fine. May be easier to make the two tines one piece, or it may not. Maybe try and find out..

Nice looking work KYBOY, wish I had a Forge to play with