Hi guys, I'm new to the forums. I did alot of trapping in my youth, but got out of it in the early 90's, when the fur market crashed. Last year, I bought a fur takers license for the first time in 30 years with a "Bucket List" idea of catching a Mink and I completed that task on my first morning's check. With that being said, I recently added a bunch of new traps to the line...All Victor #2 square jaws. I'm looking for some opinions on which Mink Pans to go with. I used some Barkers Mink Pans on my #1.5's this year and they seemed to work well. My question is this.....Which Mink Pan do you prefer ? The Barkers or the Wild River Pans ? I'm trying to justify the price difference on the Wild River's. Looking at doing around 60 Traps. Thanks In Advance....

I’ve got 25 #2 square jaws with wild river pans that I really like.I teamed them up with 1 3/4” stainless rod dogs.To bad mink and muskrats aren’t worth much.

how about some more info on them dogs?

I really like my Wild River pans but I only have them on 1.5s, not 2s. I feel like the #2s already have a pretty big pan to begin with so I didn't do mine.

F & T trapping supply sell them.They’re called PIT stainless rod dogs.They have a good picture on their websiteThe notch on end of trigger creates very little pan travel perfect for mink.They’re a lot of new traps that come with these dogs mb 450@550 and duke 650 just to name a few.You do need a compatible pan with them.

It would be pretty hard to beat Mike Kelly's mink pans.

Mac

thanks ms! gonna try them. i already am running mikes pans.

I run wild River pans on my Duke 1,75 I really like them an recommend

I just purchased 5 dozen Wild River Pans, so we'll see how next season goes....

the snare shop in iowa has them 8.99 a dozen.

Are you running the straight notched or sloped notched Rod Dogs ?

IMO you won't regret that. Mike is good people too.

I use the sloped and actually the 1 7/8” might work better.Maybe call and see what they recommend.I made the 1 3/4 work by clamping the round part of the dog end in a vise to shorten it.I can post a pic tomorrow showing what I did.

Sounds good, much appreciated...

Using a vise or vise grip you might have to make the hole on the dog smaller so it doesn’t hit the jaw.I think out of 25 traps I did about 6 needed this done.I don’t remember having to adjust anything else for pan leveling as they were all dead on.

Keep the paint or wax off the contacts as this set up is touchy to say the least.A little rust on the pan contact is helpful

Side view of set trap shows gap.You can’t you a hangman bracket if that’s what your in to.It seems like keeping a little-very little pan tension works best.

Thanks for the response and the pics, they were very helpful. I may get a dozen to try, as I will be using some of the Hangman brackets for some of the deeper bridge walls. Back in the day, i would have just filed down the notch on the pan for less pan travel and a quicker fire. Thanks again, Much Appreciated MS !!!