I have a few questions about using glycol as trap bed antifreeze.

1.) What ratio to mix with water? One trap supplier has on their site to mix it 1 part glycol to 3 parts water. Is that a common ratio?

2.) What is the lowest temp that glycol is effective as a trap bed antifreeze? Will a more concentrated solution work at lower temps?

3.) How long is it effective at a set? Will it need to be refreshed at some point?

Thanks

I’m very interested in this information as well. I’ve never used it before.

I've used it alot...Works pretty good. I use 50/50 ratio. I refresh as needed...especially after a rain.

Works good down to about 15 F. I used to use it quite a bit. When I did, I mixed it 50/50, covered trap bed and pattern with it. I've since changed to using ice melt which is good down to -10 F. I get the 100% magnesium chloride stuff. Sprinkle some in trap bed and over pattern.

1 ) 50% urine, and I mean good clean, no bacteria, urine. and 50% glycol. ( I prefer red fox ) Why would you use water again ???
2) -76 f, if you have the good stuff and. . .
3) That will greatly depend on the elements, rain, freezing, thawing, refreezing etc. So hard to say exactly. . .

So you use it in the bottom of the trap bed and over the trap after it is sifted? What is the applicator? Spray bottle?

I dont have nearly as many miles as most on here, but I am a believer. I used in conjunction with waxed sand to make what I had go further and never had problem with freeze/thaw or frost. I never put it thru rain with freezing temps though. I sprayed the bed, tossed in a little waxed sand, bed trap, cover and pack with waxed sand, cover with surround dirt and treat it.

I only have one question. Why do you fellas that tried it seem to think you need to mix it with water? The potency of it is cut in half by doing so. I have used glycerine and glycol for years. And use it straight, no mixing. You don’t use anymore that way than if you mix and it will migrate through the dirt without water. I don’t know how many times I have explained this, but I guess it falls on deaf ears.

I always mixed it so it would go through a spray bottle...Seemed too thick otherwise...Maybe not though??? Hmmm.

So you use it below the trap and on top of the dirt pattern?

I used in the bed (below) and on top. Straight it might be a little thick for a spray bottle. Use it straight like Lee suggested. Use a flip top, urine lid to apply straight. Only thing I didn't like is the wet spot on the top of pattern. I would usually sift a little more dirt on top after applied to blend in a little more.

Have you found one to be better than the other?

Refresh my memory- this doesn't rust traps, does it?

I really like glycerine the best. It used to be it was more expensive than glycol, but in recent years it has become the same price. I used to by four gallon when at the state trappers rondy, when I was trapping hard, and that would go all season, both out of state and at home. Course we all know what happened to the coyote market, so I haven't been doing that!

No, it doesn’t rust steel, totally biodegradable, and many times, I don’t even rework my traps unless they are a muddy mess from rains and snows. I get both from R&M Lures, Rowley Ia.

Jeremy, I always set up like this in Wy or states with a multi day check. If the ground is super wet when you set, put a piece of plastic under the trap to keep water infiltration to a minimum. Then some dirt to bed the trap in, put a squirt of glycerine on the dirt. Wiggle it back and forth to spread it out as you squirt to get a little more even. Bed your trap, put your desired filler in the trap, give it another squirt, then use wax dirt to seal the set on top. Set that way, that set will stay and work till you pull it up. You use it for awhile, you figure out how much to squirt on the dirt. If your setting lots of traps, premixing your glycol or glycerine a few days ahead of use, works well. Just carry two half gallon buckets to the sets from the truck, but it is more to carry. If premixing, you want your dirt to have moisture in it, about enough to make a dog turd when you squeeze it in your hand.

It seems like a lot of trappers are missing out by not using such products

I’m asking because I don’t know. If you have wax dirt wouldn’t you just use that underneath and over the trap?

Glad I checked back before bed! Chad, i hate trying to bed a trap solid in dry dirt, especially when it is on top of a sheet of plastic. That is the beauty of glycerine dirt, with its wetness. No pegs or stuff like that to solid up the trap. I usually run six inch traps or bigger for coyotes, and I bed them deep, and run about as much pan tension as I can get. That’s the system I’ve used for years, just wish yote prices would improve….and I was younger! lol

AJE, most people that have tried it, always want to mix water with it. Then if any moisture either falls or migrates into the trapbed, the set freezes down and they blame the antifreeze.

Thats what I do. But Lee has a point. Waxed sand will bed super easy but is very heavy and doesn't blend at all with dirt so you always have to top coat unless it is going to snow over (the guys who trap in sand might not have this problem). In this area a lot of the coyotes and all the wolves I've seen avoid the wet spot left by antifreeze. So I quit using it years ago. But I know guys that have trapped other places and said the coyotes don't avoid the wet spot in some areas so it works well.

To be clear, I use the glycol glycerine starting when the first hard freezes up till the hard freeze stays...period in the late fall, early winter. i use it under the trap in the bedding like I described above, when I go to the wax dirt for top dress. A big reason for that is to save on the amount of wax dirt also.

Never used any anti freeze at sets and yes had some frozen sets.
Looks like something I will try next year with wax dirt.