I see video after video comparing 25 , 36, 50 and 100 yard zeros

it of course changes for the use and caliber

some times you hear the 25 called 25-300 and the 50 called 50-250 these are generally in the context of AR rifles with a 2.7 to 3.1 inch height over bore. because those are the approximate points near and far the bullet crosses the line of sight in it's arch

this is just a survey of what you use

if you have different context like say you have a zero you use for 30-30 and a different for 223 or 308 ect.. what do you use for what caliber and why

3" high at 100 yds

Depends on bullet/ and caliber but usually on at 200yds or a bit low

I usually shoot Mt 7mm rem mag .for deer / Antelope 139 gr. interlock Hornaday bullets

Or Blue box Federal 100 gr. Softpoints out of my .243's Rifle or Pistol

30-30 is zeroed at 100. 22 at 50 22 hornet at 150 everything else at 300. the why is cause they are for hunting.

My 30-06 with 150g PSP's is zeroed at 200 yards. That puts it 1.75" high at 100 yards and 8.25" low at 300 yards. I don't know what range the bullet first crosses the line of sight but I would guess at about 35 yards.

Most of my shooting is at deer and under two hundred yards. That zero work well for me.

I hunt in 2-3 states every year and it varies so I have rifle zeroed for different scenarios.

For hunting in the local swamp and woods I have two old Marlins, one in 45-70 and one in 35 Remington. Both have a 100yd zero on them, as that is about the farthest I will shoot.

I have a Winchester in 30-30 with iron sights that has a 50yd zero for hogs out of the pirogue.

For hunting food plots and the longer shots I have a Tikka 30-06 and a Browning in 308, both zeroed for 200 as that is the max the food plots and lanes I hunt are cut.

I have a Sako S20 in 300WM with a Zeiss that is my long range/trophy gun. I have a 200 zero on the rifle, and have worked up my dope out to 1,000yds. With a proper wind call I can hit a 10" circle at 1K all day long. This is the rifle I use if I'm hunting trophy animals and want to hammer them.

My .22 and .17 have 50yd zeros, my 5.56/223 guns have 200yd zeroes.

I zero my .222 and .243 at 25 yards. This puts them both a bit high at 100 and back on at distance. I figure I’m more accurate at 25 in setting it up. I think the .222 is dead on at 225 and the .243 a bit further. Maybe I’ve done it wrong all my life.

3.5" High @ 100 yards with my 7MM Remington Magnum.

w

All my guns where lost in a freak boating accident.

50 yard zero. I have never shot at anything over 150 yards.

My 30-06 scoped bolt rifle I use to deer hunt has been set at 75 yards since I owed it. Bought it in 1975 and only use it for 9 day deer season. Hasn't let me down. Longest actually ranged deer I shot was 85 yards.
My 17 hmr is set at 100yds. I have only ever shot squirrels and targets with it. Longest measured head shot on squirrel to date is 65 yards.
My iron sight rifles I generally set to shoot on at 50 yards. Do have my scope shotgun out at 75 yd. Cross bow scope is set so my long mill dot is 50 yd
I really don't hunt where I need to stretch out that far.

Mac

200 yrds

I'm about 2 inches high at 100. .270 win.

it seems like most everyone here has a good handle on shooting some distance to get a zero , sort of expect hat from trapper man you all have a lot more experience hunting than so much of the population.

the mistake I see a lot of people make is to set up only on the near zero and expect it to be right out far

so say 25 yards as a very good example the math works out easy so you fire a 3 shot group at your target dot and your hitting that dot but in reality you are hitting 1/4 inch high and 1/4 inch right

1/4 of an inch at 25 yards is 1 MOA 1 minute of angle and at 100 yards that is 1 inch off 2 inches at 200 yards and 3 inches at 300 yards

so unless you are cutting a projectile size 1 hole group at 25 yards you are off in some direction further out

as an example one video the guy did comparing the different zeros he uses match ammo , shoots from a bench , shoots at 4 inch square targets with numbers on them and in the very first string of shot tells you where he held and shows where the bullets impacted , he was a half inch off right at 25 yards so he was then 2 inches off at 100 and 4 inches at 200 and 6 inches at 300 yards and that is basically exactly what his targets showed.
he was also about a 1/4 inch lower at 25 than what he said his hold was. so his 300 was really 3 inches off also

this is why shooting at some distance is important
you may not make little clover leaf groups at 200 yards it might be 2-3 inches , that is OK the center of that 5 to 10 round group is what you adjust off of , if you have a called flier then discard that , if you have a clear flier inches away from the rest of the group discard that.

100 is good 200 is better if your food centered left right at 200 even if you are a 1/4 inch off at 200 that is only 1/2 inch at 300 and and inch at 400 yards , wind will likely effect it more than that 1/4 inch at 200 yards

but if you were 1/4 inch off at 25 yards your 4 inches off at 400

most of us aren't really shooting 400 at game and if you are you better make sure you have shot at 400 at least every 50 yards between 0 and 400

don't be that guy who thinks bore sighted is good enough
bore sighted is to get you on paper
you also need to take into account height over bore in these calculations , so if you shoot it you know it , where if your going off some one else numbers a 1/4 inch makes a difference

I wrote an article for FFG on this a couple years ago. After 34 years guiding hunters and seeing almost every caliber on the planet in action, my advice is to zero every rifle to their maximum point blank range. I use a 6 inch target. Do this and you will be surprised at how easy it is. No scope dials to fiddle with, just aim and shoot.

Every center-rife rifle I have is zeroed at 200 yards, that make them solid 300 yard rifles. I hunt big game, no varmints.

2 of mine are dialed in at 100m cuz they got mrad reticles. Easier to dial em for long range. Hunting rifles are 1-2.5”a100yds depending on which gun.

I like to be about 1.5” high at 100 with my rifles. Rarely would shoot past 200 and it gets me to where I don’t have to think about it much until the 200 mark on deer sized game

I zero different things at different distances based on what they are

my 308 deer rifles are zeroed at 200yards this puts not more than 2 inches high at any point and about 2 inches low at 275 chances I am going to shoot a deer beyond 250 are really slim where I live

218 yards or 200 meters is the farthest my normal range goes out I have 200 yards and 200 meters marked

if it is good left right at 200 it is good wind will be more of a factor than the stacking of the amount you might have been off

200ish is good because even if a little wind the day you shoot it has very little effect on the projectile of a center fire rifle

.270/3" high at 100 yards.

100 yards and I use a LABRADAR. with all the variables and data I can produce a range card that is verifiable and consistent. I use to zero at 100 then shoot a group at 500 then do the math to determine the true BC then build a card. The 25-300 meter is for an AR with a carrying handle which puts the rear sight at 6" above center bore. It also uses military ball ammo which speeds, BC and bullet weight have to be duplicated for it to work. It will get you close though. Remember though you are trying to hit a full size torso at 300 so there is quite a bit room for error.