Anybody work on this stuff that can give me an idea of what it would cost to repack this cylinder or how difficult it would be if I bought a kit and did it myself?

Get a hold of the local trash hauler or check out a farm implement dealer they deal a lot with hydraulics daily.

people that do that as a business use a lot of specialized tools.

Just had two done at Conveyors and plastics $ 160 each On Connleymill rd

If rod and bore is smooth seal kit is way to go, probably less than 100. Been a few years since I worked in Hydraulics but wouldn't be surprised if a new cylinder would be pushing $1000 or more.

I've been buying from these folks 20 years or so.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Cylinders/

I have a local Amish guy that does most of the work on my backhoe. I had two cylinders that were leaking last week. I told him I'd take them off and bring them to him and I bought the seal kits myself.

I got one pin out after much struggling. Me and a helper wailed on the lower pin with a 16 lb. sledge and big drift hammer until we were wore out and moved it about a quarter inch. I tried pressing it out too. I didn't trust myself to heat with with oxy/acetylene without damaging something so I loaded it on the trailer a drove it to his shop.

He will charge me less than $50.00 per cylinder to repack but I paid a premium for the seal kits. They have a K on them witch pretty much doubles the price.

A regular hydraulic shop with probably charge you at least $200.00-$300.00 to do it.

Just had an old log splitter cylinder rebuilt last year. It took them months to get it back to me. I had to go out and buy a new splitter to get my firewood done in time.

I am not familiar with pricing on work like this in other states but it cost me $400.00 to get it rebuilt. That old log splitter only cost $750 new from Northern Hydraulics years ago.

Like Danny said you need a little experience and some specialty presses to do a good job unless you have some of that equipment handy. I thought of doing the rebuild myself also but decided I would let the professionals do it.

Thank you.

Hobbie, I rebuilt the tilt cylinders on my Bobcat S300 last fall, very easy to do , although you may need a special spanner wrench to remove the end cap on your cylinder (I welded my own up ), and you'll need some serious air and a good impact to remove the nut on the end of the ram once you get it out of the cylinder. On the other hand if you find someone to rebuild it reasonably, it's his problem not yours if it leaks, internally or externally .

Seal kits can be from 30 up and around me to get a loader/baler cylinder rebuilt is around $150-200. Sometimes folks that know about them can replace a single o ring and get the leak to stop. Guy took my cylinder apart on my john deere front end loader, determined which 0 ring was bad and fixed it for me no charge - took him about 15 minutes. He knew what he was doing. many farmers replace their own.

Tools aren’t really an issue between my FIL’s mechanic shop and my BIL’s fab shop. I’m just curious regarding difficulty figuring it out. lol

It ain't rocket surgery to strip one down and rebuild it.

Very easy, once you have the ram out take some pictures of the seals while still installed, when you remove the seals lay out on your work bench in corresponding order and reinstall the new one accordingly. Be carerful reinstalling the ram so as to not damage the new seals.

Here, labor would run about $100.00 + parts. If you decide to do it yourself You will need to remove the threaded cap, on the end, make sure it doesn't have a set screw in it. This will allow you to pull the rod out, sometimes they need a little persuasion. Next remove the nut, or bolt, from the end of the rod, so that the piston and gland can be removed. Remove old seals, clean thoroughly, replace with new seals, and reassemble. That one shouldn't be terribly complicated, but you need to watch how the old seals come out. If you were closer, I would tell you to bring it in. We could probably turn it around in about 24 hrs.

Thank you folks!!!

Just one more reason this is my favorite site.

Have some Hydraulic oil on hand to wet the seals during reassembly.

Get any pressure of it. Unscrew cap- They make a wrench for it. But I’ve used a big pipe wrench or hammer and punch. Pull the ram and install new seals.

Are the seals in the cap? That’s where the leak is.

The cap as you call it is actually the gland end. Yes there are seals. Probably an O-Ring and a backing ring on the outside of it. Inside where the rod goes through , Probably a couple wear rings and a seal. That seal is the hardest part to reinstall. Very doable though. Make sure its facing the same way as the one you take out, when replaced. That seal is most likely whats giving you the trouble. They get hard from heat. On the oher end of the rod is your piston. There will be a seal and some wear rings and backing rings most likely. Make sure there is absolutely no dirt on the threads for the gland when you put it back together. Lube up the seals on the piston when you side it back in.