Ended up drilling the primer hole out big enough I could tap the hole for a 1/4 inch bolt. Set a socket over the case and atop the bottom of the die. put a washer on the bolt and tightened it up. I thought I pulled the threads out but it was the case moving. Bunch of cases had cracked necks. I am not real sure how many times they been loaded. just ordered 100 new ones. .68 cents a piece for winchester brass. Lapua was a buck thirty nine. Cant just get them anywhere either. Found a bunch of places i never heard of but got these at optics planet.

Danny, I pulled lots of stuck cases like that, 1/4x20 bolt, nut and socket. Works well.

I haven't had a stuck case in years since I started using Imperial Sizing Wax. It's good stuff.

Put the barrel in a chest freezer overnight and try again when the barrel is cold. Gunsmith removed a 7mag of mine by doing this.

Danny, what cal?

22-250

Stuck in reloading die the way I read it, but for one stuck in a barrel that is a good idea

we have a few brass rods for different calibers
stuck cases , bullets ect

we had a 223 that someone stuck a 222 in , live ammo
the bolt wouldn't close
they had already tried a cleaning rod said they really beat on it

stood it up sprayed Kroil down the bore let it sit a week, poured the kroil out , one good whack with the mallet on the brass rod and out it came

penetrating oil can do some work if given time

a brass rod as large as you can get still smaller so it slides down the barrel easily about 2 inches longer than the barrel is also very helpful

if you don't have a squib rod in your pistol range bag it is cheap , small and really handy nothing else really does it when you need it , it doesn't happen often but a rod is the difference between a bad stage and a bad match.

I have never had a squib but I have loaned it out plenty of times and I used it for a stuck cartridge that got too fat of a cast coated bullet.

stuck in a barrel is easy enough. put a wooden dowel rod down the muzzle and tap it out with a hammer

I made a " sleve that goes over the die and has a hole in it for a M6 bolt ( I am metric ya see ) I tap a thread in the case, slip the sleeve over the die and use the die stop nut to push the case out. ... same idea as yours just a different method. For a stuck case in the barrel, if the barrel is threaded for a can or break I have adapters that have a zero fitting on them. Fill the barrel with oil screw the zero fitting on and give it a couple of squirts with a grease gun and the case will pop right out.

Same here. I've had a half dozen or so stuck case. Then I switched to Hornady Unique (wax) and havent had a stuck case since

Well Scuba, the way that works is if you're working on a 6mm, 6.5mm 7mm etc. you ned to use a metric pulling bolt.
Now, if your working on a 30-30, .308 .338 Winchester magnum etc, you need to use an American SAE pulling bolt.
I'm done.

what if it is 7.62x51R, 7.62x51nato , 8.6x70can you use metric then?

I do .... But I can only get away with it because I am a Kraut enginerd and don't understand number drills

hard to believe a man with your education in math can't use fractions

GREENE, that's a gray area. Let me research that and I'll get back with you.
And SCUBA, #7 is the number drill bit or a 13/64th to tap for 1/4x20

We had a stuck case in a savage .223 bolt action hunting rifle. We worked and worked and worked on that thing and couldn’t get it out. Took it to a local gunsmith and he got it out but said he too had a (This word is unacceptable on Trapperman) of a time with it.
We had used steel case military grade .223 and that stuff has a coating on the casing. When shooting at the range between expansion and a hot chamber that coating acted like glue. He said that was common in nice hunting rifles trying to feed them the steel coated casings that might work quite well in AR style guns that have way more tolerance than you find in tighter tolerance bolt hunting rifles. He had to clean out the chamber and receiver to remove the steel coating after the case was finally unstuck.
We shoot brass through it now and even after a long day on range haven’t had an issue since. Our gun doesn’t like steel coated ammo if shot often like at a range.
Jim

In my book, fractions is something ya spline or put plaster on

I knew id did not make sense from the get go. Ya see with metric standard threads. ( not the fine version or special stuff ) there is a simple formula to work out what drill ya need. At the 60 degree thread flank pitch. Ya just subtract the pitch of the thread from the outer diameter and ya got the drill size that will work to run a tap into. See them is things i can measure and work out. Number drills just don't make sense to me.

I like simple stuff like that.

I have reloaded thousands of rounds of different calibers and never stuck one using Imperial Sizing Wax, and that little tin lasts a long time. I remember when I first started using a lube pad, that was a nightmare, that was 55 years ago.

I have removed many stuck cases and loaded rounds in chambers. I fill the barrel with oil till its about 1.5 to 2 .0 from the top of muzzle. I put a wood dowel with a few O rings to keep the oil from coming out the muzzle. You just wack the dowel and hyd press pushed the case or round out.

Do it outside and have a rag handy to clean up the mess.