I've read it all. Never cut and splice to cut and splice but no change over 5' in length. And of course they all say it's not recommended. I got a cheap striker 4 mounted to a 20v milwaukee battery and it's perfect for rental canoes and packing it in. Small and compact and last all week on a trip. The transducer cable is 20' and I only need about 3'. I keep it coiled and taped but it would be great if it was only 3'. Even the one on my kayak could stand to be cut down to 5' or so. Anyone ever shorten, especially by that much? Would it screw up the reading or something. I have no clue how that wizardry works.

I have worked on vfd(variable frequency drives) that use transducers to give them feed back. We had no problem shortening the wire -- as long as you aren't splicing the plug back on the end. -- the thing with the splice is that they are reading millivolts typically 4-20 and any disruption or "noise" from the splice will give you bad readings.

Its not the solution you are looking for,,,, but FYI I have seen a type of tube that opens down the side then clamps shut over your coiled cable, it small openings on the ends and I think its water proof. If you can find one it would at least look professional vs. coiled and taped. I'd be too scared to cut the original cable myself. https://www.amazon.com/Pcs-SureCord...&hvtargid=pla-1931079374543&th=1 ... similar to this.

A co worker of mine, no not that one, shortened some marine radio VHF cables, and they worked, so I guess it can be done. I don't trust myself to do it though.

Contact the fish finder company.

That may be the best option. They may be very helpful. ... unless you have to speak Chinese.

I have shortened them in the past. You can use all foil for the shielding repair after you cut and slice it. Then wrap the splice in self vulcanizing rubber tape. FYI there are 4 thin wires in there and the shielding ... usually a mesh and foil. Solder the splice and shrink tube is you friend. DO NOT USE CRIMPS OR WIRE NUTS.

I was waiting for your reply Scuba.

I know, can't keep my bloody fingers still on topics like this

One other thing while I have my brain switched on. Stagger the soldering joints / spices. That was you don't end up with the "well fed python" look in the middle of your cable .

I have a couple od transducers here if you need a picture of what those cables look like inside , i'll cut one for ya

Thanks Scuba. My brain was saying everything electrical can be spliced but my mechanical knowledge knew it had to be done just so or you get problems with the signal.

I'm the definition of thinking I know just enough to be dangerous.

Ok here is a simplified version of how those things work. They have a microphone and a loudspeaker. Thatsmit a click, measure the time till the cho of said click hits the microphone and calculate the depth from that time. Now all the calculating gubbins are in the display and the transducer just send and receives said clicking. Frequency of said clicks is also established by the box with the display. in essence , this transducers are pretty simple bits of kit that don't give a hoot how long their leash is. If you make the cable longer, at some point you will run out of juice to make the thing click because Mr Ohm has something to say in the matter

Did that with and old depthfinder for ice fishing. maybe the numbers are off a skoski, I dont know but it worked for me......jk

If you have inaccurate depth, adjust the " keel offset " in the menu of the thing. The numbers are not off because you shortened the cable as the thing does mnot measure resistance like for example a temperature sensor etc. Its just sending out pulses and receiving the echos ..... the rest is done in the box ya stare at