For those interested in a different way. I like this mod because it allows angle adjustment for the stake. And every beaver set location has different bank slopes and depths. I got tired of the stake binding when driving or pulling due to angle. This allows the flat swivel to be turned to angle needed.

Grind flat sides on end of 1/2" rebar, then drill a 1/4" or 5/16" hole thru...


The single stake flat swivels are perfect for this. And I used 30p nails, but 20p would be OK. Cut nail down to about 1.5" to 2".



Hammer/bend nail over and weld. A decent weld tack on both sides will hold.


I still put a slight bend near the lower end of rod. This bend should be perpendicular to the flat swivel. In the past, I put a slight bend in the top end of the rod for the angle but this mod is much better.




Just another way of doing things.....

Well since your welding you could skip the drilling and just weld a nut in plac it that hole couldn't you ?

Great idea! Thx!

Yes. But the hole thru the rod makes for a stronger setup.

This gives me the option of using two stake’s.

I've tried a similar setup as your's, but that setup doesn't account for the varying angles. At most beaver sites, the stake will need to be driven in at an angle with your setup, especially with those smaller stake holes.

A larger stake hole, ring, or rod loop welded on end of rod will allow for angles and a t-stake would be best.

Great idea! I’m going to remember that!!

I approach this a bit differently.
I prefer to have the locks installed on my traps and not permanently on the rod (which I think is how yours is set up?)
I just bent a 30p nail into a "U" and welded to the top of the rod. My home made locks slide right over the hoop and everything is secured once you t-stake at shore.
If I need to switch out a trap or pack in traps and rods separately, I can just remove the T stake and slide old trap off or new trap on.

A quick smack with a hammer or hatchet usually addresses any binding of the T stake which is rare because the "U" has plenty of room to adjust angle in the same axis as the rod

Yeah now that I think back to last season I definitely need to at least ream those holes bigger.

slydogx,
Your setup is a good one. I would rig up some like that as the 30p loop on end will allow for a 90°, straight-in driven stake.....but I have 3 or 4 different lock styles I've bought or made over the years. My locks are permanently affixed to the rod. I use a 3/16" quick link to attach trap.

Mad Scientist,
It seems like when I'm in a hurry.....standing in thigh deep water and knee deep mud....I couldn't get the rod to lay in at the right angle for easy stake driving. I had to make some changes....

Nice setup , what type (style) of slide lock are you running ?

I have 3 or 4 of the Bauer lock (made from square tubing). And I have a couple of the Death Diamonds (no longer made). Most are locks I made from square tubing with a V-notch in them....for a positive no return.

The locks I make will also work good on #2 twist link (dog tie-out) chain. That chain just kills my old hands when toting in and/or pulling up with a brake rotar attached.

Doublestake all beaver rod sets so no rotating back to bank. Never had much problem with bank angles with the setup I fabricated. Also, most stakes push right in no problem so no beating and banging.

Most sites here the stakes can be pushed in.....until I have one that is a hard packed sand bottom....

Great ide'er

Nice thinking, Patrick.

I drill a hole wide enough to run aircraft cable through and crimp with a stop to tighten the cable to whatever you use for a stake. Can run the cable loop through the Bauer type slide lock so I can take my trap and lock off whenever needed. No worry about angle . No issues since I did this 3 years ago other that someone stealing one with my mb-750 . CO'S have pic of mod since its unique.

Great idea! Thanks for sharing it with us!

Good idea