Is that for just one end or front and rear. Depending on if its a dealer or independent will make a big difference in hourly labor rate. The dealer where I bought my truck is at $200 an hour, the little shop I work at is only at $70. I would say most places are going to charge 1.5 to 2 hours per axle. Then parts prices vary from Rock Auto kinda look like brake pad pads to high performance pads. Total price depends on were in the ranges the job they quoted falls.

Usually true but I can't beat the shop price on oil and filter change. But I still do my own so I know it's good oil and filter and the plug gets put back in right.

Wait until you have to replace front rotors on a first gen Colorado. They are bolted to the back side of the hub. Have to remove the entire hub to replace the rotor. We had a machine to turn them while installed on the vehicle. Isuzu engineering for ya.

Firestone in Ottawa KS wanted 900 bucks to replace upper ball joints on my dodge pickup and align the steer tires. 400 was for parts. Said it was a four hour job for ball joints. I bought moog ball joints for 2 hundred at a parts store. Took me two hours on a zero degree winter day including time spent in the house warming up and running inside to get tools. Some shops are almost burglers.

I enjoy folks begrudging what mechanics and parts cost. But don't dare complain their chosen trade is overpriced.....Lol I'm at the point now when price for mechanical repairs is questioned, I just say fix it yourself. All current quality mechanics I know are not looking for work, they have plenty. If you have the ability to fix it yourself, you should. Next thing is, very cheap low quality reboxed parts are out there.

feeding grounds, if advance can make money at 200 for parts so could firestone. Heck they could have bought them at advance cheaper than i can, had them delivered, and made money charging me the 200. Doubling the retail price on parts and doubling the time to do the job is deception. Aint no way around that.

I don't understand why the push to always change the rotors now. I've never changed rotors on any vehicle, just replaced pads when they get worn low. If the rotors are scored because the pads went to the rivets that's different. Perhaps rotors are not the same quality steel they used to or the pads are more abrasive, but it strikes me as a scam to always have to change rotors with pads.

Rotors, most of them, are junk nowadays. Often they are too thin to turn even once, especially if they are rusty or have uneven wear. I also think a lot of new "mechanics" don't know how to turn rotors well enough to not have issues with noise, etc. They just want to throw new parts on and be done.

True, once the surface of the new pads wear to match the grooving in the rotor. Until then, you have far less contact. And you will wear the first 10-20% of the pad very quickly.

Price some rebuilt calipers you can often get them and exchange your old ones cheaper then rebuilding the old ones yourself it saves you time and money that way.

Here a oil change at the dealer is 50. Outside of the dealer in the 40s. Still to much for me to pay.

Just got done doing all 4 on a Subaru Baja.



On the lathe.....



The total bill, tax included was 292.74.

55 gallon drum Getting about full of chips.....we do a few, lol.

I can change oil in my jeep or my wife's car in about 20 minutes. That's the same time it takes to drive to a shop to have it done. I'll be changing my own oil as long as I am capable.

We do a couple oil changes a day on average...... But I hate doing my own!!!!

A break job all 4 wheels will cost a few gold bars!!!

I'm glad to pay someone else to do it. Got other stuff to do.

Will find out, just dropped off my pickup today to do all 4 wheels.

While I will admit some shops are crooks, you have to look at all the overhead a shop has to pay for. Rent, utilities, shop insurance, work comp insurance, pay roll(front counter and techs), repair info can cost 200 a month or more if you have multiple sources, any company paid benefits.