What do you use that's most effective? Could you post a picture?

I like the Thompson 2-X-120" they have a treelock you can just clip to a nearby tree and have plenty of length.

I make my own with 7/64th 1x19 cable on 5' of #9 wire. I use the Bridger surehold cam lock with teeth ( 1/8th ) and a 75 pound dispatch spring.

Slick Pan, most all wolf snares do the job. Every ones prefaces about what snare to use, have there merits and faults. One key for a good wolf snare is the cable. You should use 1x19 and not 7x7 cable. 7x7 will still work but, it is a limper cable and a little more difficult to set in the field. Slide locks are general cheap and work in most conditions. Cam lock can be faster but, in freezing rain areas the ice freezes the lock. Kill springs are optional, personally i don't use them. I think it is must to have a 3' or more if needed, attached number 9 annelid wire to your snare. Lastly cable size is a personal preface. 3/32, 7/64, or 1/8, all work well. If you use anything long enough and it works well, eventual it will fail. I like things simple. A inexpensive slide lock, 3/32 1x19 cable and a 3' piece of number 9 wire.

I appreciate your advice all. Montana regs :

"Snares must be equipped with a loop stop that will close to a loop
no smaller than 2.5 inches in diameter (stop placed at no less than
8 inches from end of loop). Snares must have a breakaway device
rated at 1,000 lbs. or less installed on the loop end."

I plan on trying to snare 1 wolf ever. I have never done it so trying to figure it out.

Here is a photo of double break-away snare. this should meet your state requirements. 1. there is a "s" hook at the lock. this will usefully straighten out when there is a lot of force pulling on it. 2. i also put in a 1/8" double cable sleeve at about 6". This is so if a moose is caught by the foot/leg, the lock will push the sleeve from the cable and thus open the loop.

That helps a lot. Now I understand. Thank you!!!

What length are your snares?

I too prefer things simple.

3/32 1x19 cable. Just enough cable to form a loop. Attached to 5 feet of #9 wire.
Thompson locks. I hate cam locks they are just an exercise in frustration in windy or frosty conditions.

No kill spring. The more hardware you hang out there the harder it is to hide it.

For a BAD I use a hack saw and cut between the two openings on the lock. A moose will open the lock but a wolf will not

THIS!!!!!

Pete

General if you cut your cable at 6', you will have a good snare loop. I have made some snares that i cut at 5' for tight areas.

Good advice thank you!

I learned a lot from everyone. So much I would have never known or though about. I thank you very much. KEEP IT SIMPLE.

One more tip.... get you a copy of the Alaska Wolf Trapping Manual! Click on green banner at the top of this page...

Pete

This right here. Keep it a simple as the law allows. 5\64's will hold as long as it is behind the ears but 3\32's is better size cable.

The dispatch springs work good.
I started using them about 10 years ago.

The number one wolf snare I sell the most of is 72" 7/64 1x19 cable loaded with toothed cam lock with 75# kill spring attached to 5" of #9 wire second most sold is same snare with 3/32 1x19 cable. I don't sell them without kill springs anymore there is no comparison when it comes to dispatch without them. I have converted a lot of trappers that were reluctant to try them and now swear by them.

Can you explain the difference in the dispatch of a kill spring vs not having one ? I assume its the quickness and lockdown so the wolf is not fighting the snare as hard? Would this mean it would cause less damage to the hide? That's pretty important to me.

Kill springs put them down faster especially in more open applications.
A wolf alive in a snare can wreck itself.

Any critter in a snare can "wreck itself."

That is of course the utter absurdity of the "cable restraint" nonsense foisted off onto trappers in some L-48 states!

Pete