Fellow Trappers:
Couldn’t find this already had been discussed here. If so, please point me:
If you use FB1 DP traps, you‘ll know Clint Locklear‘s video on tuning the trigger: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XbqxitEsNtw

Admittedly, I am not quite getting what he does to it with that file…! Not sure I understand the drawings he shows. What is the shape of the trigger suggested by him (please see sketch enclosed): a), b), or c)? or something completely different?
Also, instead of filing off metal, couldn’t a similar effect as the one intended by him achieved by bending the trigger up or down such that it engages more or less with the plate?
Thx.

A.

You'll have more consistent tension having the dog fully engaged with the plate.

I bend the dog or park that catches on the plate on all of mine so they fire much faster than any other DP I’ve dealt with. I’ve done some filing like sketch B. But not as much, just took the corner off. It works too but I find it easier to bend them. If you go to far just hit it back down with a hammer. You have to do some messing with them to find the sweet spot with the bend and how tight the dog should be. I like it to barely move back on its own. Some will say it’s too much tinkering for dog proofs but I’ve definitely noticed a decrease in bait clean outs.

Thank you both!