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Re: Building Soil [Re: Eagleye] #8218171
09/18/24 06:07 AM
09/18/24 06:07 AM
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 3,991
Wisconsin
E
Eagleye Offline OP
trapper
Eagleye  Offline OP
trapper
E

Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 3,991
Wisconsin
The mix I planted this spring was Smart Cover from Grandpa Ray Outdoors:
Spring Triticale
Oats
Buckwheat
Forage Peas
Crimson Clover
Berseem Clover
It’s formulated to build OM snd will handle a variety of soils and lower pH.

Re: Building Soil [Re: Eagleye] #8218178
09/18/24 06:34 AM
09/18/24 06:34 AM
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 8,592
western mn
B
bucksnbears Offline
trapper
bucksnbears  Offline
trapper
B

Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 8,592
western mn
Looks like a great combo EE.


swampgas chili and schmidt beer makes for a deadly combo

You have to remember that 1 out of 3 Democratic Voters is just as dumb as the other two.
Re: Building Soil [Re: Eagleye] #8218190
09/18/24 06:53 AM
09/18/24 06:53 AM
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 896
NE NE
W
Wife Offline
trapper
Wife  Offline
trapper
W

Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 896
NE NE
You got plenty of "advice" on what to plant so I won't add but really if you are interested in increasing soil health and productivity do two things - lose the plow and/or disc - get a shredder to chew up your crop in the spring and rent or buy a drill period!!!!!!. Your crop needs to be laid on the surface for 3-5 years before you see any soil bounce (NO TILLAGE). Deeper root systems will bring what nutrients the soil has up to the surface and eliminating the tillage will slow the decomposition and volatilization of the carbon and nitrogen. Slowly the soil will improve to its max,,,, then you can get an accurate soil test and put and apply any additives you are missing. Get into a rotation and DO NOT BE HESITANT to use a herbicide if needed. I have helped a lot of folks with their CRP food plots (worked 34 years at USDA) and have No-Tilled my gardens for 20 years. Keeping last years crop on the surface and drilling a new - different - crop into the residue will pay dividends down the road. First years are not pretty but the science shows up around year 3-5. Try a grass/legume mix like 2 years of some type of clover and 1 year of corn, or millet, or sorghum, or annual rye etc.,,,,, whatever will work in your growing area. A mineral block from the local farm store will always help too if harvesting a deer or two is the objective. My experience. ...............the mike

Re: Building Soil [Re: Eagleye] #8218193
09/18/24 07:07 AM
09/18/24 07:07 AM
Joined: May 2023
Posts: 837
Virginia
G
GUNNLEG Offline
trapper
GUNNLEG  Offline
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G

Joined: May 2023
Posts: 837
Virginia
Lots of good info. I dedicate my plots to building soil after turkey season in the Spring right into Fall planting for deer. I generally have clovers left over and can do a no till broadcasting of buckwheat and millet for the summer. I also make any adjustments for pH during the Spring.

Here's where I need help. I don't have a no till planter for my brassicas in the Fall. I've tried sowing over the leftover debris from the Summer planting (I've tried both laying it down by cultipacking and by cutting it up fine with a finishing mower). I've had success with broadcasting cereal grains on top of the debris, but not with any brassicas or clover. Seems like maybe I'm not getting good soil to seed contact or the debris is just to thick for smaller seeds to get up high enough before they die?? Based on this, I always revert back to lightling discing because I KNOW that my plot will come up.

Any suggestions on how I can ensure a better Fall plot with small seed and not discing would be appreciated. Other than finding a drill or always just sowing cereal grains?

Re: Building Soil [Re: Eagleye] #8218194
09/18/24 07:09 AM
09/18/24 07:09 AM
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 36,267
Central, SD
Law Dog Offline
trapper
Law Dog  Offline
trapper

Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 36,267
Central, SD
The food plots we have been working on in MO have exceeded our expectations for being more gravel than soil, the weekly rains were a big help in its success being the first year. The clover has done well some of the grass has greened up then died off. Getting the soil tested was a big help in meeting the plants needs.

Its definitely a big draw and a needed destination point compared to the past free ranging they did kind of Willy Nilly or heading to other green grass areas off the property. Not a big buck area but it’s drawing in more bucks then we ever had on camera in the past some bigger than before.

Unfortunately the adjoining property sold to a shoot every round, blow up some tannerite and walk through people food plots kind of guy so we will see how that plays out.


Was born in a Big City Will die in the Country OK with that!

Jerry Herbst
Re: Building Soil [Re: Eagleye] #8218414
09/18/24 01:39 PM
09/18/24 01:39 PM
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 2,939
WI
WIMarshRAT Offline
trapper
WIMarshRAT  Offline
trapper

Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 2,939
WI
Christine Jones did a youtube video on building soil and soil health. It is one of my favorites. It talks about the liquid carbon pathway being 30 times faster than the above ground biomass.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C3_w_Gp1mLM

I followed her process when I wanted to build some soil in a spot that had all the top soil striped off for a subdivision. It was a failed tree planting due to the nutrient depleted soil.

I used a bunch of annuals and killed before they moved into their reproductive stage. Terminate when still in veg. stage and plant a bunch more plants from different plant groups.

When in veg state, the plant is pumping maximum amounts of carbon and sugars into the soil. When it moves to reproductive stage, it's focus is on bring up into the plant. Be careful with too many legumes in mix as it can be hard on soil structure/soil aggregates.

The deeper you can get your soil aggregation, the more productive your soil will be and the more desirable the crop you can grow for the critters. It allows the roots to get deeper into the soil profile for important minerals and nutrients. Its why you can plant a bunch of oak seedlings, but the deer will walk past them to eat every sucker off a cut stump. Those stump sprouts will be way more dense with minerals and nutrients because the roots are deep within the ground.


Life isn't about waiting for the storm to pass...it's about learning to dance in the rain!
Re: Building Soil [Re: WIMarshRAT] #8218564
09/18/24 05:33 PM
09/18/24 05:33 PM
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 12,056
East-Central Wisconsin
B
bblwi Offline
trapper
bblwi  Offline
trapper
B

Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 12,056
East-Central Wisconsin
I don't know about the brassicas, but we have frost seeded legumes, especially clover with good success in our area for many years. Must be something about seed to soil contact and they don't germinate. Funny (This word is unacceptable on Trapperman) most legume seeds don't rot easily and you would have thought the clover would have germinated in the spring with the freezing, thawing effect.

Bryce

Re: Building Soil [Re: Eagleye] #8218579
09/18/24 05:46 PM
09/18/24 05:46 PM
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 896
NE NE
W
Wife Offline
trapper
Wife  Offline
trapper
W

Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 896
NE NE
All I can say is what works for us. I have an electric 1 bu.spreader that is made for 4-wheelers to plant food plots. Nix that. I fasten it to a bracket mounted on the FRONT of my 40/20 JD (5.5 ft high). Have a 7' shredder on the back and broadcast clover or any small/tiny food plot seed into last year's corn or millet or annual rye etc.. Shredder covers the seed immediately all in 1 trip. Volunteer corn can be left or hit with SELECT herbicide if you want. Leave for two growing seasons. Now you plant corn (feed grains) in your drill by plugging every other or 3rd tube to get the spacing you want between rows. Like I said, get a drill and however you want to broadcast the tiny seed just prior to shredding the stalks of corn or millet or cereal or annual rye etc. Works fine here because its a FOOD PLOT (not nesting cover) and should have a weed (herbaceous annual) or two. Use a herbicide if you want. Pack the ground after seeding if you want (your tractor tire packing will indicate if you need tt)..... here is a tip that "managers" miss when doing food plots........... In March (here) or very early April you should be doing a recon and recording HOW MUCH OF THE FOOD IN THE PLOT REMAINS. If more than 20-25% of the fall crop is available at that time, you are probably overplanting your plant population. Easy for corn or millet or radishes or turnips --- tougher for legumes to estimate but you will get better. You do need to do it every year to see how it is being utilized when not covered with a camera. Adjust your planting #'s and seed types from what is being used. If you have approx.10% leftover you are about right in providing a food source when needed. My experience..................... the mike

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