Curious if anyone tried the Owen’s Corning pink rebar rods with the hagz rod ends.

Are these the 3/8” composite rebar rods? I’ll be watching this, been thinking of how to make them work.

There supposed to b 1/2 inch. Want to put the hagz rod ends on them. I’m thinking about it and bet if u grind the ridges and glue them and the put unroll pins it would work

Are you finding them at a mason supply house? I called mine they had 3/8” composite rerod at $6 a 20’ stick. I’ll call back Monday. I checked Hagz and their rods the shipping was killing the deal. This could solve that problem.
I have a nutria job I work at from time to time where I have to pack everything in.

Western Wildlife Services

I tried some 7/16” fiberglass rebar from Menards and had an outside end get pulled out and the double staked inside get snapped in half.I wouldn’t use anything but 1/2” metal for beaver-my two cents.

I seen Owen’s Corning 1/2 fiberglass rebar at Lowe’s. It’s pink and says strong as steel lol.

How did you fasten the end to rebar. I would epoxy it and drill hole or 2 install roll pin

It involved a little welding.I put a short piece of hollow tube on a double stake swivel bracket.This might not be what you want to do but it might help you figure something out.

Guys if you use the pink rebar from Lowes you better have a good pair of gloves on just to look at those. I used them last year and while they work great never handle them without gloves and even then you can still get fiberglass splinters. I got some other smooth glass rebar this year and will be trying them soon. These are the ones that the guys up North have been using for years with good success.

I tried it. You cannot afford smooth fiberglass rods up here in Alaska unless you won the lottery. So I tried the Pink Bar from Lowes. I sanded the end down and glued the top piece on and peed it two times with a hammer. Then I sanded the last foot and put on the ring, used a socket to hit with a hammer and drive it up the rod until it stops, then peened it two times with a punch and hammer. Then I painted them. Works great, but you better wear gloves like they said above. Much better after painting.

The last foot is a lot to sand down. You can glue on a stop or just use a hose clamp instead of all the sanding. They work great.

Buy some cable clamps and It becomes a whole lot easier to make stops and other connections.

So where u get them and what are they called. Shipping is main cost in these rods thanks for informing me about the splinters.

As far as stops we just anneal some nuts and slip it on and whack it a few times with a hammer. On the top end we weld a fender washer to a short piece of conduit, slip it on and couple of smacks with a hammer and your good. I bet you could epoxy the top end also, but what we do works fine.

The pink rebar is Owens Corning fiberglass rebar and you can get it at Lowes here. I'm sure Menards carries it as well.

I have found that cable is much easier to deal with - especially if your packing your supplies. I find a rock and wrap with trap wire. Attach my cable and throw it in the water - secure the other end and wire my trap to the slide and done. I can pack in 10 #5 traps, cable and wire and not deal with fighting rods through the woods.

If you had to find a rock here you'd spend half the day trying to find one that a beaver couldn't pull up. Those rods are time savers for sure here.

A 3 foot square piece of chicken wire can be filed with small rocks and then with the four corners tied together you have enough weight to drown a beaver.
They can be folded up when transporting and weigh nothing.

A gunny sack works even better to fill with small rocks, and you can pack it in your back pocket if you want.

Personally I usually cut long stakes on site and tie the drowning wire around them and drive in deep water, but will use a gunny sack or weight if the bottom is too rocky to drive a stake.

Geotek in MN has smoothe fiberglass rods I’ve been using for 15 years or so. If you get 9.5’ rods the shipping goes way down. 1/2” is what you want. I also have 9/16” and they’re just stouter.

Paint your fiberglass rods prior to use (even the rebar facimily) to keep the splinters at bay. I have some good coatings after 4-5 years from being painted with moderate usage (stored out of the sunlight in my machine shed). I also color coded my ones for rat trapping (from 4'-8') and used the 1/2" dia. ones for staking. You may need to do it every so often depending on your soil types . Another off season trap prep but that's part of the game for using this type of material. My experience. ................the mike