This is a case where the internet probably gives to much info and I can't decide who's right. I need to make a ton of tounge and groove to finish my shed, closets, etc. What is the best way to go about it? I've considered buying a shaper, using router tables, table saw, haven't ordered anything yet.

Appreciate it

There are planes s to do it. Might work for a small volume of wood.

If you've got a bunch to do get a shaper. Makes the job go so much better and faster.

Shaper ,preferably with power feed.

Or 2nd best is table saw with power feed

I'm not trying to derail your thought process but you could consider a "Shiplap" joint in lieu of tongue and groove for your applications. For me it would depend on if you're using any reclaimed lumber, with reclaimed- T&G becomes more challenging with cambered materials. Router table works fine but the word ton = shaper, I've owned and used both, by the time you outfit a good shaper you could probably buy the wood for your projects.

A shaper is really just a router table on steroids. That would probably be your best option for making a lot of T & G but there's a lot of expense involved.

A table saw would be your second best option.

Have any woodworking friends that would let you use their shop?

If you go the shiplap route instead, I made a bunch on my radial arm saw with a dado blade. A table saw would work just as well or perhaps better.

Thank you all. I have thousands of board feet to do. Will look at ship lap and shapers.

Shiplap should work fine for what I need for now and I can look for a used shaper in the future.

What's the best way to quickly make shiplap? Would you recommend starting with 3/4 or 1" wood? I have a sawmill and tons of logs so I can do whatever.

I use dado blades on the table saw to make shiplap for quite a few projects

If you buy a shaper, you can sell it when you're done.

If you have a millwork shop near you, it may be far more worthwhile to pack up a truckload of boards, haul it there and have them mill it to spec on a $/linear foot basis.

Sometimes, we don't calculate the opportunity costs of working ineffiently on high volume tasks when we could be performing needed "craft labor" elsewhere.

A shop will have a shaper with an auto-feeder and possibly a sanding operation after milling too.

Something to think about.

Depends on what your finished size you want, when we start with rough cut it’s about one inch then by the time we plane and sand there’s plenty of material to get to .75, also don’t forget about drying time for the wood unless you have a kiln, a shaper can still be used but a good tablesaw is more useful in the long run and a person can find a good old delta or old powermatic very reasonable.

Have you used a power feed?

I wouldn’t recommend using one to someone asking the question about making tongue and groove!

I take my rough sawn cedar to a local mill and have them do it. It's cheap, fast and uniform.

Just got a quote from a local shop that makes saunas and things. He said he would charge me 1.50 per bord 1x6 8ft t and g .

I'm a novice wood worker who does it because I want to. These projects are how I relax. I've spent thousands on tools to produce some mediocre work that I could of hired out for less but it's worth every penny to me.

Try your local high school shop class. We did it for a few people when I was there.

Yep, let someone else purchase the equipment to do it right

I would also use a dado blade- here is you profile. 3/4 or 4/4 is personal preference- your dado is 1/2 the thickness. I’m sure someone will debate it but it’s also a better joint for weather - T&G traps moisture.