I am working on a couple of hats... one is a coonskin cap and the other is a hat that is supposed to be like some of the original mountain men wore, as well as the Canadian Mounty's. I am talking the style not necessarily the fur and/or color. What I want to know, if anyone has the knowledge, is what was the material they used for the lining in these cap/hats, the color and fabric?

Of course, the coonskin hat is made from coonskin, probably not with the face mask on the front and the Trapper's hat is made from muskrat and is alleged to be what most of the old trappers wore.

I was going to use a quilted style material, but have decided against that. So any help you can provide will be greatly appreciated.

Garry-

I've never seen an original but I would assume that they would of used whatever was available for that time period such as trade wool or cotton check etc. etc.

Calico
Calico originated in the southwest Indian state of Kerala, where it was produced for centuries before European traders first encountered it. Since at least the 12th century, calico has served as a relatively cheap and extremely durable canvas for artists and designers, most notably as the vessel for chintz fabrics, which have cycled in and out of fashion in recent decades.

I would guess calico, linen, or wool. I would guess that there is a good chance that the coonskin didn't have a liner.

Not likely to be a liner in a fur hat back in the day.
May have been worn over a cotton stocking cap that could be washed occasionally.

I would agree with very little evidence of liners in the fur hats. At least fur hats made "in country." Silk scarves were a common trade item, and there is some evidence they were worn on the head as well as around the neck. I have found wearing a silk scarf (think bandana) under a fur hat is very, very warm.

First I suggest you find some historical evidence that the Mtn Men wore those fur hats shown in the movies. There were a few artists that toured the mountain west during the period and painted scenes they saw. Alfred Jacob Miller was one, George Catlin and Carl Bodmer are a couple of others. Trade ledgers will show what fabrics were available.

Most everyone was helpful. So, I spent almost 2 days researching, online, various bits of history, of anything that was close to what I was looking for.
The conclusion was that, at times, some hats, caps or other head coverings did have linings, but not always common.

Material or fabric that was often used was; Homespun, Muslin, Broadcloth or Calico and occasionally wool . The fabric was most often cotton, wool or linen, but could be a combination. Silk was occasionally seen in shirts. Once they left civilization most all clothing was made from blankets, either got from the Indians or at the Annual Rendezvous.

Today I visited several shops and stores that sell various type of cloth for sewing, etc. I found 4 of the types of fabric; Broadcloth, Muslin, Linen, and Calico. The Broadcloth, and Muslin were an off-white and a very loose weave. The linen, I felt was too much in quality, but came in many colors. I was looking for a forest green color and a medium weight fabric. I found close to what I wanted in a Calico. I bought what was left of the skean, about 2.5 yards and they gave me a discount.

So, here is what I got. In the info I read, it said they often bought cloth with a design or pattern...



So, on we go... One day I hope.

Garry-

Keep us posted Garry.

I can’t help you, but I’m cheering you on!!!! You have lots of skill and background! If anyone can make it work, you can!

Thank You and Robert for your vote of confidence. Something popped into my head a while ago... my mother was quite a good seamstress and my aunt was a professional seamstress. I remember Mom making something out calico when I was probably 6 or 7 and she prewashed the fabric. I thought at the time this was silly to have to wash something before it was worn. She explained to me about it made from 100% cotton and when it was washed the first time it would shrink. So, if you didn't wash it prior to making whatever it was, you would only be able to wear it one time, because it would shrink so much it wouldn't fit the next time.

So, I thought to make sure my memory was still intact I would check. What I found was: since calico is made on a loom and it is 100% cotton, it will probably shrink about 10% the first time, and up to 3% the next time. The article also, said that any and all material that is 100 % cotton will shrink, which is Homespun, Muslin, Broadcloth and of course know that wool will also.

So, I guess I will wash it 2 times to try and alleviate some of that shrinkage.

Garry-

Always wash and or dry fabric before sewing, just like you will care for the garment you are making from it.

Good luck on your project. Look forward to seeing progress pictures.