I pounded out a few today. Over the years I’ve mounted to 4x4’s, trees and poles- interested in what others are utilizing for predator guards. I’ve made a few 3’ cones in the past but interested in other options. Anybody?

There was one group several years ago that took about 300 foot of 2 inch zinc coated pipe out of a dairy barn. They cut to various lengths and then made a mounting bracket that they could use to attach the pipe to the wood duck house. I know they took the 2 inch PVC out too but don't know if they used that or not.

Bryce

What is the material you have on the doors? Nice job!

Moosetrot

Those are NICE! Great job!

dang those are too nice for our duck; I use cones believe they work best,

I used cedar for everything and some deck skirt I had laying around for the roofs. I had a lot cedar but ran short on the last (2)... a 7/8 x 12" x 8' was $43.00 at Menards, Crazy!

What is the purpose of that reinforced hole opening? As for predator deterrence, just get some sheet metal, shape as a cone, and secure to post

This.

What are the deminsions in case anyone might be interested in putting up some

When you put the wood shavings in there don't be tempted to overfill. Too many woodchips will bring the eggs up into reach of a coon with his dang arm in the hole.

Moosetrot

That’s why you use a cone

What’s the black piece around the entry hole ( white on the end box ) for? Those are really nice mine look more like the one in Dixie’s pic lol! Well done

A lot of Wood Duck houses up here are mounted in trees. A cone will do no good there.

Moosetrot

There's a lot of different dimensions and plans available- this is where I landed over the years. I've built a lot for my own use and replacements, I also place them on properties where I trap marshes and ponds, with landowner permission.

This is an important point- the bottom of the entrance hole to the floor is roughly 16"- we fill cedar chips to the bottom of the clean-out about 6" of cedar shavings.

Extended predator guard- white because I ran out of black

Here's some other random thoughts: I gap the sides and bottom floor for drainage and ventilation.


You can cut saw kerfs, I use hardware cloth for the duckling ladder.

I use Rockler State Park router stencils for all letters and I make router stencils for all logos, ie' DU, Drake, Delta, etc. - router to a depth of 1/4". Same thing for the entrance ellipse.

Nice work .

Very nice work.

Eagleye-

Those have to be the nicest Wood Duck boxes I have ever seen! Nice work! It'll be a high rent district!

Moosetrot

Wood duck house drawings. https://tfsweb.tamu.edu/uploadedFil...gement/Game/Creating_Wood_Duck_Boxes.pdf

I have a lot in the field that look like dixieland's- as long as they work. I'm set-up for it so it doesn't take any longer to make them a little nicer. Wiping the black paint into the logos takes more time than cutting one out.

Excellent job! Those houses are definitely made for the high-class woodies.

I have a handful of properties where the owners are very conservation focused, with the enjoyment derived from wildlife viewing as their main focus. For some, trapping is the last resort as a defensive measure, (especially beaver) it goes along way when you install a box with their farm or last name on their wetland. They understand, we both have the same management objects.

Thank you so much for those dimensions but what is the side Dimension? it has a zero

I think only Wood Ducks with leg bands should be allowed in your boxes! Hah!

Moosetrot

Randall- The zero is my pull knob- I know what you’re thinking, my artistic skills puts Sharon to shame
I just run the width at whatever the nominal lumber runs, 11-1/4 to 11-1/2 typically

Very nice!

Our Trappers Council is looking at building a bunch of boxes. Thanks for sharing.