I have to think about that , it is at least 14 feet high in most of the buildings enough to get round bails stacked 4 high in the one probably 16-18 in a couple of them
tall enough to pull a combine in another

the big machine shed actually has a dirt floor that is the easy one

the parlor is the real tight spot with just so much for railings , hoses , pipes

I normally try and anchor so they haven't got anything substantial to grab on and pull just make me a dirt pile.

I left one a little too close to a grape vine one time and hot about 30 feet of grape vine piled up under the coon with chain rapped around it that as a mess.

I have set traps on Glades using natural cracks and holes with Hydraulic Cement and AJ's, (drill hole, insert AJ, Pull threaded part up to set the lead, then bolt the trap down).
However, in that case, you can't go wrong with concrete blocks and DP's or footholds.

This was long before anybody had heard of cordless tools, I had to drag a generator out there!

In my early days I once set a cage directly on a large bale where they were denning. My cage looked like a small bale the next morning, stuffed tight, and snarled at me when I kicked it. Took some creativity to get that one done and over with.

I need to cut some plywood scraps about a foot wider and longer than the cage traps and wire them to the cages so that they stop packing mud under the pan when I set on grass/dirt.

Cinder block all shapes and sizes at Menards find a materials dump site lots of concrete option. Just need a good hammer tool to make it easy a quality tool makes all the difference.

Inside the buildings with concrete floors, how big are the doors? If you can close it up a bit, You could nail the chain of a DP or coil spring to a wooden fence post (or piece of tree branch) and use that as a drag inside the building. Fasten it towards the middle and it will hang up on all kinds of stuff. They won't get far.

If the concrete is broke up enough use some wolf fangs and DPs. Drive them through whatever cracks you can get them in.

I anchored a 220 with a cinder block on a concrete spillway at a pond on a Girl Scout camp. All the blocking was with blocks and it worked on the first night.

Most farms around here have a pile of used tires. Chain dp's to them.

3/16 drill in hammer drill. Drill hole 3" drop 4" piece of tie wire in to it. Then take a 16 penny duplex and attach through the Tap/chain using a washer if needed. Drive the nail in. I will hold on concrete,asphalt, stone.... If you use a duplex you can pull the nail back out.

mostly 3 sided buildings and an old corn crib that has an 8foot door at each end

some of the buildings have farm trucks tractors and planters so I need to plant the coons to one place


I think I found a solution
my son works at a hardware store , so I went to visit him they had hammer drill bits that had 1/4 inch hex heads I bought one in 3/8 and I have a 1/2 inch square drive to 1/4 hex impact adapter
I tried it on an old concrete bock I have at the house
the 1/2 inch impact ran a hole right in , and then switch to the 9/16 socket and drive the 3/8 x3 inch concrete screw anchor , then they can be pulled right back out
I already have the battery powered impact I keep in my truck.

it was actually faster than driving a stake in hard ground

I will be leaving 3/8 holes but in the more busted up concrete that shouldn't be an issue.

this is very similar to a 3/8 x3 inch devcon just not blue

Forgot to mention the traps I use in my own barn.......cement floors.......with barn cats present. A vertical coni box with 160's. We have to have these 6 feet off the floor, so mine get a shelf below the bottom opening. Otherwise, just position them near the floor.........about 4 inch opening. Bait is dry cat food up high inside on a bait shelf. Once trained to find the bait, they will race each other to get to it first. Narrow opening means they have to push forward with rear paws.........while pushing up with front paws.........lead with head and get a perfect neck strike about time their rear hips clear the bottom edge.

Feed the barn cats in the morning and they don't care about the cat food in the box. Or this time of year, just switch to mini marshmallows, candy corn or something sweet cats don't care about.

concrete block or a tire. Strawberry mashmallow or something sweet to avoid cat . Drill a hole in block or tire to put trap stake in.

My buddy found out the hard way that a little coon can drag a car tire a long ways, lol .
If this is a pay job I would invest in some cage traps , it only makes sense if your going to continue doing this type of work. Other wise I like The Beav’s idea of catching the cat in a cage , then overhauling the coon in 160 boxes.

If you have the means to drill into the concrete then you might look at Redhead Drop-In anchors... Drill hole, drop in anchor, set anchor with set tool, run bolt into anchor. Done.

They have the added benefit of being flush to the floor. So you can leave them or run a fastener in and shear it off even with the floor.

Mike

the 1/2 inch impact drills a hole in concrete surprisingly well so far I didn't need to drill many

the sand in the cow barn wasn't over concrete it was gravel under



they seem reusable at least a few times , time will tell how many

cost is about 1.50 each , the bit was about 7.50 and the other stuff I already have and carry in my truck.

hex bit fit right into my 1/2 inch impact to hex adapter ,that works great for the T-30 head torx big lag screws much faster than the little 1/4 inch impact

Epoxy them in place and they will be there a long long time. They make concrete anchor epoxy.

I would like them to be re-usable

if I was going for permanent epoxy would be a good way to go I would like my trap back

Just make sure you screw them down as far as possible, A whack with a hammer will snap them off at floor level.

lol. sorry. I assumed you were anchoring D rings or something and connecting to that to reuse every year.