Have a rot rusted spot on frame, on driver side, the bad spot is just in front of where leaf spring bolt onto frame, had on hoist this morning an it is right where hoist lift it up an must went thru it, there some metal left but separate some an holes from where hoist went thru frame an crack an rot with rust close, it is in a spot where impossible to fix it by weld reinforce plate an u have buy a section of frame at salvage yard an weld in, was told not worth it, has anyone ever heard of frame crack all way thru while driving on road an cause auto to wreck or fall apart on hiway ?

I had it happen once. Luckily I was alone on the road and going slow. It was not a pleasant experience. The drivers side broke, BIGTIME at about 30 MPH, the passenger side held but bent. I lost the rear drive shaft, the fuel tank was sliding on the blacktop by the time I got stopped and it kinked all the brake lines. I had the dog with me at the time and she didn't seem to care for the ride much either.

JB weld it ......not joe biden

I don't know what happen if separate an come apart completely, sucks an start look at other pickups an payments , trade in, I guess

sell to the salvage yard and find a new used truck to drive

if the new truck is fairly limited rust , FLUID FILM THE HECK OUT OF IT EVERY SEPTEMBER.

Do your cab corners and rockers look like this ...lol

Do not put anothah Dime in that truck.

Drive it to the salvage yard...for 500.00 ...and ask them for a ride home
Your truck is toast

20 years ago a young guy that lived near me had his rust bucket come apart on gravel road. Police said was going 50 mph. Truck tore apart. He didn’t survive

Love those old movies, Buster Kenton Charlie Chaplin etc great stuff......jk

Dave don't let the LE get wind of your faulty equipment - especially that female officer.

No u can't notice rust unless look close, the rot frame In bad spot is what's bad deal, I like know how long it hold out, I would just keep it an park it in back an use as a spare, if only get $500 for it, that is nothing, I had hoist today as make noise like front brake pad wear indicaters occasionally but was told it from rusted rotors, which u got disassemble the hub to put rotors in, plenty of brake pad lining left though

My son had a late 80s S10 that the frame broke on the driver's side just in front of the rear spring shackle, didn't break all the way thru fortunate. He came driving it home, looked like one of those vehicles out of a 1930s comedy, center of the truck frame a couple of inches off the ground.

It's virtually impossible to weld an auto frame without specialized equipment and techniques. And then where is the next bad area? Toyota had a issue with frames rusting out, they ended up replacing frames in their trucks, complete teardowns, $$$$$ for them.

And Dave, now that you know about the condition, if you continue to drive that vehicle; if something should happen, you can be held responsible and the insurance company will not provide coverage.

Better roll it off a cliff

Rusted out and cracked frame...means your truck will not pass inspection

And not safe to drive.

You can't sell it like that .

So ...junking it for scrap metal is your only choice

limp it in to the nearest Toyota dealer and get you a new Tacoma today

No inspection necessary in Iowa, except by the buyer.
But the scrap yard is probably your best bet, Dave.

Coonman please listen to this man for your own safety. The truck has served you well don’t let it end your life over dollars

walleyed is riding on his third major welding job on his 2012 Silverado frame.
Jobs were done by certified welder who replaced 20" to 36" inch sections
of partially rusted out frame. Costs were $500.00, $800.00, and $900.00.

He slid square tubular steel replacement sections into the old frame
and fully welded them into place. All passed NYS inspection.

These repairs were still way cheaper than brand new, or a
high mileage used truck......If you can even find one
at a reasonable price & condition.

Repairs have worked for me thus far.....Fingers crossed !!!

Fill that spot with great stuff, sand it flat and hit it with a good coat of undercoat. Be sure to undercoat the whole frame so it blends in nice. Then sell it.

Junk it. No sense in risking your life.

Dave, Lots of quality used trucks out there on the private market. Eric

Do not think that would be a very good thing to do to someone.
Dave, just junk it and move on - not worth getting in an accident and hurting yourself or someone else.

that is exact same bad spot on frame as the S10 your talk about is same place on mine where crack an rot with rust bad

We don't have them rules here in Iowa unless for CDL vehicles.

A few years ago I sold my truck due to a bad frame. The box frame collects crud on the inside and it has no place to go. When I bought my new/used truck it had a inch of crud on the inside of the frame. To combat this I went to Harbor Freight and spent $15 on a drain cleaner you run on a cordless drill and I put a 3/8s or so size cable clamp on the end of it. I snake this through the inside of my frame and let it clink around freeing up all the mud and gunk build up on the inside. I do this after a period of warm days so the stuff is relatively dried out then I blow it out with my leave blower. Then I fill the frame with wd40 or diesel fuel or somthing of that nature with a pump pesticide sprayer. I do this yearly before winter and it seems to be pretty effective. On the outside I fluidfilmed a few years ago and I just do touch up in the pinch points and spring shackles and what not.

Usually when one spot cracks , more start. My 2001 Chevy 1/2 ton cracked above both rear wheels, welded and bolted a plate. Lasted awhile but cracked 10 inches away. Good old Chevy swale, kinks in the middle where box and cab touch.

Must be some real turds coming at you at 50 mph on the back roads.

Some real hillbilly rigs I imagine...lol

I have fixed lots of truck and trailer frames. Really not a big deal, lots of guys say it can't be done. They are wrong, anything can be fixed. But you gotta know what your doing.

you would think there would be a ton of just absolutely clapped out rigs but really not that many , probably no more than places with inspections , where they just figure out who needs to get paid to pass it basically sight un-seen.

My '02 ram has about six pin holes of rust on two fenders, two cab mount brackets are rusted, otherwise it looks awesome for 466,000 miles.
I use axle grease, penetrating oil, and on the paint I use a liquid wax.
Axle grease really helps
The running boards stop a lot of rock damage, the roof flashing in the wheelwells stops rock damage too, I take them off every year and re grease any rusty metal

The cracks an separation of frame in front of leaf spring were getting worse, I had look at again last week an no place to weld on, buy a frame at a junkyard to weld in a section, forget that idea, so end up trade in today for 2014, Silverado , off Rd, fully loaded , 114000 miles it, excellent shape, 1 owner, $17,800, minus down payment plus $4500 on my Colorado trade in, at first he offer a $100 bucks for my Colorado but gave more so I could afford payments , use were right, u actually don't get much on trade in sometimes, it sounded good but they still make out well, I told them what wrong it

So it was $17,800 then you got $4500 for the Colorado which dropped it to $13,300??? It doesn't sound terrible if so. Is the newer one an extended cab or is it the quad cab with a small box?
I hope the new truck serves you well Dave.

At least you can say that you drove it I to the ground. If a lift collapsed the frame, you are risking your life as well as others if you keep driving that truck.

It is 4 door club cab, salesman say that all are nowadays, even colorados

Way to go, Dave! I hope you have good luck with it. It sounds like you made a really good deal. Off-road means that now you can get stuck farther off the road and a lot worse. Good luck.

Good deal Dave! I'm glad to hear you got yourself a better truck.

Good for You!!

Glad ya got a truck Dave.

I bit the bullet this spring and replaced my '85 Dodge with a brand new Ram. First new vehicle I ever had for myself, the wife has had new ones but not me.

I just broke it in by driving it to California and back, lol.

Ram makes regular cabs/bed yet which is what I wanted.

You got a good deal on that truck Dave, enjoy it. Regular cabs are still made, just very rare. Usually work trucks (stripped) and beat pretty bad by the time they are replaced. If you want a new one, you pretty much have to order it in.

Cool. Happy for your new ride.

Good deal, I am happy for you Dave.

congrats on the new truck , now fluid film it before this winter

takes about a gallon to a gallon and a half at 50 a gallon it is cheap insurance and it makes everything you need to work on later like alignments go easier.

if it is 4wd 4 ramps put it in 4wd low and crawl up all 4 ramps at the same time

several big sheets of cardboard to slide around on

fog every door , door pillar , tailgate , rocker panel , frame member , everything but the tops side and the exhaust then no under body flushes at the car wash , the spring rain washes the salt off the bottom as you drive in it , without washing off your fluid film layer

recoat every early October and she will last you a LONG time.

the wool wax gun , wool wax is a very similar product but more expensive for a gallon around 70 dollars however the gun has 3 containers so you can load up 3/4 of a gallon and spray without stopping so much

there are also other sprayers that work I just used this one

sprayer
https://www.amazon.com/Fluid-Film-Pro-Undercoating-Gun/dp/B0070WTGZG/ref=sxin_17_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.140400a7-1208-46ad-8d2a-eb6e8eac81b5%3Aamzn1.sym.140400a7-1208-46ad-8d2a-eb6e8eac81b5&crid=28OYGK48YGHUG&cv_ct_cx=wool+wax+gun&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Ts_4xAGsV4KagSrMi-r_2CADKHNRqEEDn1S2ztwpUB_3-Eon0wM52vxXbGkRB0hVNIPpKgVkcI7Hs1QFid3gUrN7olk95VSUBkM_oaV0VVY.0DHsKFOwYNubGsixVWLFT-4jHikMgiwn37wp2TpP8CY&dib_tag=se&keywords=wool+wax+gun&pd_rd_i=B0070WTGZG&pd_rd_r=ee767c9c-400d-4f81-ad0e-92159ab4b3cf&pd_rd_w=Dxb1P&pd_rd_wg=WiK3Z&pf_rd_p=140400a7-1208-46ad-8d2a-eb6e8eac81b5&pf_rd_r=GEZB7VV91T8RTJ1X4N2C&qid=1728565752&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=wool+wax+gun%2Caps%2C183&sr=1-1-6024b2a3-78e4-4fed-8fed-e1613be3bcce-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9zZWFyY2hfdGhlbWF0aWM&psc=1

the gallons of fluid film
https://www.amazon.com/Fluid-Film-Prevention-Undercoating-Protection/dp/B004NDDCKK/ref=sr_1_6_pp?crid=34G30267WC7ES&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.PlaCH-oVGmiCtTizaVuZklnXID2M405L15ZyffCPYXRtLiVZqETpDusZpW5N9YeSmtcdw_HG1JuZAG7m-G6msEvFO5L5wvR6RUboLoJ4I4taPWi5cLIW2f1h4LrsdYRYSol6evHHnRU2kAnE0QAt3eYz8m03jd14aq95AqEbCH8xgGaMlX1meUtvJtM6uCVF9sr2M8reZBYaaWMLOpSL1uPiSqCsJHEgkuuoT0SjmDAx-SLPwQ0flzeSi7fNn_8xFERa1DOKSxbr-L4tcWY_ePXWmUofsMSvTB-KdcI3gSc.5BLcOeG3DnWDqIIe5OuqoG7y1ywIRzBkqhR5gmClqFw&dib_tag=se&keywords=fluid%2Bfilm&qid=1728565934&sprefix=fluid%2B%2Caps%2C149&sr=8-6&th=1

I'm glad to hear you got yourself a better, more reliable truck, Dave. Now you will be able to do a little more trapping and explore new areas by having a depndable vehicle to drive. Sounds like you got a great deal too. Good job!

On the subject of fluid film. Nessmuck or other body guys how much does it cost to have a body shop apply it? That way it's done right and they should know all the cracks and crevices.

Over here
Undercoat guy, 325
Body shop, double that

Good on you coonman

Way to go coonman

Yep enjoy it, you needed a different truck for sure.

I buy cans of fluid film at home depot. Just like a spray paint can. In the isle with wd40.

Praise the Lord! Dave finally upgraded his truck! We have been waiting years for this to happen.

you can

11.38 a 11.75 ounce can so right close to a dollar an ounce or you can get 128 ounces for 50 dollars or 39 cents and ounce , yes you need a sprayer but if you figure that out over 10 years use or 10 cars use you have about 11 dollars a car into the tool.

Congrats on the new truck coonman.
Next time that happens make sure your fire and theft insurance is paid up and proceed accordingly.