Hey everybody, having some issues with my trap prep. Just getting back into trapping last few years, and had a mix of old and new traps.

1.) I soaked old traps in vinegar, then dipped in baking soda water and sprayed old paint/rust off.
2.) New traps went into dishwasher.
3.) all traps were left outside to develop a slight coat of rust.
4.) boiled logwood dye over the turkey fryer, and let traps soak for 10-20 minutes.
5.) Hung up to dry and than moved to basement.

The traps seemed to take the logwood dye just fine at first, but now within a few weeks of sitting in the dry basement, they have all started to rust immediately. The dye is almost falling/flaking off, rust is coming up through the dye and most have a pretty serious rust on them already.

I remember as a kid they wouldn't start to look like this till after a full season of water trapping. I tried Dakotaline Snare and Trap Dip last year and it worked fairly well, but wasn't perfect. Any quick fixes? Season is coming up soon and I'm at a loss. Try to dye them again? purchase a Dakotaline dip or other and dip them?

Appreciate any help for a greenhorn getting back into the trapping game. Thanks

I cant help much, but I try to make sure I wax mine shortly after I dye to prevent them from getting that way. I always thought the cause was humidity here.

Sounds like you didn't wax them.

I have dyed and waxed traps that have been hanging outside since last October. A few spots where the chain links touch are just starting to change color.
Wax is a protective layer

I wax my canine traps, but not my water traps. Was always under the impression you don't want to wax water traps.

I was everything

Waxed water traps are a bit harder to handle especially if you're wearing gloves. But it's still a good idea to

The logwood dye you get now isn't really the logwood dye of the last so I wonder if that's part of the issue. Longer soak might help.

However if you're storing them in the basement, that's typically a very humid environment so that's probably the biggest source of your problem.

Set em just like they are. No need to dye or wax traps used in the water. When the season Is over clean them up and dip them in latex paint. 2 gallons of water mixed with one gallon of paint.

I stopped waxing and dying a long time ago. I mix rusty metal primer and acetone to a 1 to 1 ratio. It last for years. If I need a touch up I just use a rattle can. It's one of the best things I've done concerning trapping. If I get a trap with blood on it, I simply rinse it off. I normally run 200 (+) traps a year and it saves me a lot of time. I set my traps in salt marsh, brackish water, swamps, hardwoods, bottoms, swamps and...Its just the ideal solution for me. But like I always say, what do I know?

That^^

I had that happen last year with the dogwood dye. Had to clean them and redo them. I used black walnut dye this time. So far no issues.

Leave them in the dye at least an hour.
I also wax all my traps except conis

All dyes that contain tannins (logwood, walnut hulls, maple bark, sumac berries etc.), turn into tannic acid when water is applied. After you remove from the dye and are going to store for a time, try dipping them in a solution of soda water to neutralise the minor amounts of tannic acid remaining on the trap surface. Once you grasp the chemistry (Ferris oxide, Ferris oxalate etc.) and how the soda water (sodium bicarbonate) works,,,, you will better be able to protect your gear from the elements. The dye stops the rust by converting through tannin (tannic acid). Heat is the catalyse that does it FASTER than soaking it at room temps but will leave a micro-film of the acid on the steel surface when you remove it from the dye solution. You can dip, paint, wax or cover that surface with whatever, AFTER you even out the electron charge of the leftover acid molecules. Maybe more than you wanted to know but my guess is that film was not neutralized and chem reaction started up again when the moisture was correct (humidity). Not an issue to re-boil and dunk in some soda water as long as you have not dipped, waxed, or painted etc.. My experience. ......................the mike

Seems like a big difference between the $5 brown looking bag of logwood versus the $10 bag of black crystal logwood. At least for me

Used walnut hulls for 60 years and I have been satisfied with the results don't wax them, just my way

Paint is your friend. If you're not dealing with a large number of traps, just hit them with a rattle can.

X2

My preferred dye is alder bark, but walnut hulls or several other types of bark/limbs/etc. Will work, some should be available in your area. The one time I tried logwood dye I was not nearly as happy with it as some of the alternatives. Regardless if you've not waxed or dipped you can just redye them with no extra prep.

I always wax my water traps, not only does it protect them but they work much smoother and faster.