I need to pick up a heater to heat a 10'× 16' insulated yard barn. I hope to get one that will keep it about 60° and kick itself off and on automatically and not be a fire hazard. It will have electricity and I will likely be working on getting it wired and insulation put in tomorrow then the flooring.

I was thinking just an electric heater but thought I would ask if any has and good suggestions on typed or brand I should get.

Are you going cove heat or fan type?

The oil filled radiator looking electric heaters. They have a thermostat and can be set to 600 watts, 900 watts, or 1500watts. Available at most home improvement stores like Home Depot, Lowes, and Menards.

Have not thought about it was just going to pick something at the store then thought I would ask here first because of the knowledge base and I know I will get the best well thought out recommendations and likely save me both aggravation and time.

the barn is for my daughters mouse and rabbit breeding area so she can breed them year round and become the only supplier for a few stores. Now she can't beeed in winter hopefully after this week she will be able to. Never dreamed I would have so much $ in mouse breeding.

No help with the heater, But it's a Great thing you're doing for your daughter.

Electric baseboard heater on a thermostat. Pretty cheap and much safer than portables.

Propane wall mounted. 120 lb tank Doubles as fuel for whole home generator.

Mini Splits are reasonable in cost and would likely meet or exceed your needs.

would allow for expansion.

I have the 30,000 in my 28-30 insulated garage. 10 ft ceilings and 3 ceiling fans. In yours 10,000 would work. Install it and forget it

With the wood chip beding and dust I don't think any frames will be a good idea. the shead is literally 2' from the house because it was level and very close and makes it easier and cheaper to get electric to it. I do think it would be cheaper to run than electric but maybe more dangerous. Remember this is not me using this building but a distracted young adult. I want it as full proof as possible.

don't they require 220?

google 110 vac mini split...


one of the first .

https://www.alpinehomeair.com/produ...zone-mini-split-systems/blueridge/bmx917

I thin for s fast easy stop gap I'm going to just run a heavy extention cord to it and run whatever heat off of that for now. in out of time and cold will be here soon..

Yard barn place I bought it from said the ventless lp heaters build up moisture in the yard barns particularly the ones people are living in and sweet and drip from the ceiling and he didn't recommend them. he said it was likely due to poor insulation but did recommend a mini split like he uses at his offices on the lots. But he still needs electric space heaters when it get really cold.

Basically I'm in a time crunch and looking for quick and easy.

for a fast stop gap

a clean rabbit cage with a 12x12 paver in it and a milk house heater set on the paver

probably run 2 and put them on thermostats separate and probably run two extension cords to two circuits , put a weather station in the shed to monitor temp and weekly blow out each heater with compressed air, not sure how dusty a mouse house is.
keep everything clean around them.


need to keep in the habit of monitoring them regular

you get a dry heat , 2 heaters if one dies or isn't enough, keeps it where is shouldn't get knocked over or anything get too close to it

as she gets more profits from the mouse business more insulation and better heat , better electric lines run to the shed

hot water heat might be a good way to go , an electric hot water heater and a bunch of pex run under the enclosures so they stay warm and very even , a brass pump on a thermostat to circulate fill it all with antifreeze.

eventually if this gets big enough get it on the OWB as it's own loop

just thoughts

I was thinking about hooking it up to the owb but like everything it's getting more involved than i have time for now. I do like your stop gaps.

Now I'm going to be lucky to get it insulated celling in and flooring down before temps stay down. Another thing I saw on line were electric heaters that mount overhead and should greatly reduce the chanc of getting knocked over. down side is the floor will be cold.

Here’s the two types I’ve used but mine came from a dealer here so I’m not sure about the brand.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/King-Electric-71-in-840-Watt-Cove-Heater-KCV2409-A/307678754

https://www.northerntool.com/products/fahrenheat-ceiling-mount-5-000-watt-electric-heater-17-065-btu-240-volts-single-phase-model-fuh5-4-17303?cm_mmc=Bing-pla&utm_source=Bing_PLA&utm_medium=Heaters%2C%20Stoves%20%2B%20Fireplaces%20%3E%20Electric%20Heaters%20%3E%20Overhead%20Electric%20Garage%20Heaters&utm_campaign=Fahrenheat&utm_content=17303&cmpid=53403385&agid=3200075897&tgtid=pla-4577473071433086&prdid=17303&ogmap=SHP%7CPLA%7CBING%7CSTND%7Cc%7CSITEWIDE%7C%7CHeaters%20%26%20Stoves%20%2B%20Fireplaces%20-%20SC%7CHeaters%2FStove%7C%7C53403385%7C3200075897&msclkid=18391d189d611166be767a3a5816a20e&gclid=18391d189d611166be767a3a5816a20e&gclsrc=3p.ds

If your building is,10x16 . Assuming it is well insulated and draft free. You will need about 1500 to 2000 watts of heat with electric.. A milk house heater is 4800watt 240 volt ,will require 10-2 wire to feed it. . Special plug . A wall mounted 2000 w heater would likely do, require 10 amp at 240 volts. and 14-2 wire. Likely solid wired. Could be fan forced or baseboard .With thermostat control, Safety is the main concern, with feed and critter dust.

I think they sell different milk house heaters here
this is what is commonly called a milk house heater in WI

https://www.fleetfarm.com/detail/be...Gp0XdK8xMVAY-Xl4eMtPN1XlmvQaAjXLEALw_wcB

that may be a colocluialism but it is what I was talking about
it was commonly found in the milk house a small room off the end of the barn next to the bulk tank where there was a hydrant and sink to clean the milking machines.

Try a small electric space heater first. I also have a shed the same size. It’s all I use. Drys hides just fine, and it completely comfortable when fleshing coon. Never really electric bill that much difference..

I thought I got one sides insulation done took my time spent maybe 45 min doing it. Had to go out and get a new x bow cocking rope since the boys misplaced theirs again. on the way home it hit me that on the Wal ends I have to add in a nailer or there will be nothing to hold whatever I put on the walls. And naturally I stapled the paper backing well to hepl hold It in place. . The worst part is I knew I had to add a nailer to the rafter in the top but didn't think about needing to do the same on the wall. that's what having to many things going at once gets you.


My electrician friend stopped foe a second today between jobs and Gave me some pointers about the best routing to go with the wire and wall fishing it and way to cut a hole so I can drill through the sill plate and get the wire under the house and a box that will pop in leave axcess and I won't have to patch it.

he recommended running both a 15 Amp and 20 Amp line out to the shed. Also recommended the rout he thinks will be easiest to get another circuit up to may daughter's room to spread the load out from all her reptial heaters. Now another trip to town for more wire and breakers..